Underseat Coolant Bottle Relocation Questions

Another way to solve the issue is to switch to Evans coolant.

Since the system is no longer under pressure, there is not trick to finding the right coolant level. It just is what it is. I've actually ran mine without any reservoir at all.

When I bought my bike, it had a 3 oz brake bleed bottle mounted down around the kick stand as an overflow/reservoir, It was just zip tied on.

Unknown to me the bottle cracked (cheap plastic), I rode it for miles with no problems like that. The fluid level in the radiator was fine when I checked it.
 
HOTROD
Might their be any options as to the size of the rad as it is a big sucker, and something smaller would improve the lines of the bike.
I also realy like the idea of a nice stainless coolant bottle, mounted somewhere on the bike.

Interesting post mate.

P.S. Who supplies the bottles in your post? 8)
 
Just an after thought, my fan seems to come on much to much, but have no issues with temp light.
Reading that MiamiDave doesn't have this problem in Florida its got me thinking... Any thoughts on this
 
First Evans Coolant! Great product.. does NOT expand, environmentally safe (proplyene glycol.. basically food additive), does not promote rust, will quench hotter surfaces than other coolants, and that's the good news.

Now for the bad. The heat removal abililty of the stuff is not what regular EG/water is ... so lowers the system's ability to cool in severe situations, last time I checked the NPG+ needed a special water pump because of viscosity issues.., expensive (about $30/gal) and if you lose any.. if you add water it's toast! You decide if it's for you.. but the removal of the overflow is true since it does not expand.

Now.. radiator size. I must admit.. I don't know the main construction media of the raidator for the RIII.. is it copper/brass... or aluminum and moreover what size of tubes do they use and how many rows? If it's CB, then a custom made radiator of large tube aluminum probably could be installed in it's place that could be smaller. But, that takes some design experiements. There are many custom builders out there.

Some of the links for billet overflow bottles...

http://www.cfrperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=200

http://mooreparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Billet-S ... dZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moroso-6 ... dZViewItem

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
 
Puke tank

Hi Jack Iam an old hot rodder to..Well old any how..I have been told or read somewhere that the new over flow tanks on all the new cars and bikes was developed to keep oxygen out of the systems that helps prevent corrosion..Less oxygen less corrosion..So that little bit of fluid that the puke tank holds is not for more coolant capacity but to keep the system sealed from oxygen..Thats why they say check the over flow and add rather than opening the rad. cap..Any other ideas??? Jack 8) 8)
 
scotty said:
Just an after thought, my fan seems to come on much to much, but have no issues with temp light.
Reading that MiamiDave doesn't have this problem in Florida its got me thinking... Any thoughts on this

Mine comes on almost as soon as I stop, I've checked the coolant level
and everything is OK.
I would rather mine come on more, rather than less, especially with such
a large motor.
 
Re: Puke tank

busajack said:
Hi Jack Iam an old hot rodder to..Well old any how..I have been told or read somewhere that the new over flow tanks on all the new cars and bikes was developed to keep oxygen out of the systems that helps prevent corrosion..Less oxygen less corrosion..So that little bit of fluid that the puke tank holds is not for more coolant capacity but to keep the system sealed from oxygen..Thats why they say check the over flow and add rather than opening the rad. cap..Any other ideas??? Jack 8) 8)

Corrosion in the system is kept at bay by the antifreeze concoction for the most part and AIR is present throughout the system in minute amounts. If you were running pure water in the system you would have to have corrosion inhibitor to prevent corrosion of both iron and aluminum parts even with an overflow... so the overflow was not invented per se for the AIR issue alone.

But more to your point ... and I think I've got your jist........ does these designs keep abundant amounts of AIR out of the top of the radiator...yes it does due to it's inherent design. But, the original creation of these overflows was to allow for larger radiator footprints to tuck under hoodlines. The larger (usually crossflow) radiators did not have toptanks (like downflows) but utilized the top of the radiator just like the rest for cooling with rows of tubes. So, with the radiator completely full to the cap... the natural pool expansion had to take place somewhere else... voila... the overflow tank invention.

But, as I said before.. the overflow tank could be empty (when cold)with the radiator filled to the cap.. and not effect cooling one iota...you're right there. Just as long as the radiator content can "spill" or expand into the overflow this allows for the radiator to utilize all of it's footprint. Without it, it would puke out to it's own level and decrease the cooling surface areas.

As far as filling at the overflow... if you opened the radiator.. the coolant in the overflow could likely drain out if there was any present. The nice part about the overflow design for the most part..... it gives you a gauge that you can see the pool level of the coolant with "hot/cold" marks without opening the radiator and, moreover you can add coolant without going into the pressurized part of the system... so it's a safety invention too!
 
I would like to see some alternatives to the current radiator look.

Here's an idea.. check this picture out....I really like the stainless guard.

rad-gril-2.jpg
 
hotrod

I knew a hotrodder would be up to snuf on coolant systems..What about just thicker coors to cut down the overall size..Seems to be room at the fender..Very expensive though..
 
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