Under bear claw filters

[Mittzy]

That reminds me I must look at it and give it a clean - doing it now.....

 

[Mittzy]

DIRTY LITTLE BUGGER
Just checked and it is filthy.... but the stubborn little bugger won't come out - so I guess it stays dirty...

 

[HansO]

I have used foam stuffed into the breather hole at the bottom of the stock air box for four years with no problems.
I clean it along with my filters and the tools I now carry in there stay clean.

Yeah I tried that too on some badly given advise and after a spirited run the Hot oil fumes had actually impregnated the foam enough to the point that the next day after it had all cooled down and returned to its liquid form in the foam caused enough back pressure in the crankcase about 2 km from home just on the outskirts of town before I sped up to the highway speed limit that I felt a thump against the inside of my left leg followed by a rather warm wet feeling inside of the same leg ... fortunately I looked down to see there dip stick bite the dust just of the side of the road so I pulled up and was amazed that the only damage to the dip stick was a small scratch in the end of the stick, I Replaced it in the tank and slowly rode back home watching it as it started to lift again. upon inspection of the foam when I got home found the foam drenched in oil I took it out bought the little filter and have never had a problem with the dip stick coming Loose.
@dave64 if you still have the little foam filter that came with your original Ramair why not just put that on or buy another don't risk with shortcuts

 

[Mittzy]

if you still have the little foam filter that came with your original Ramair why not just put that on or buy another don't risk with shortcuts
Sound Advice mate.

 

[HansO]

Pulling the hot gases from the crankcase into a throttle body and into a cyclinder is not a good idea

Very Rare that I would Agree with Art but in this case I do, in the Air box the breather breathes into air that is not under a vacuum, if you really need to put it in to the filter you really should have it breath in to a catch tank so it can condense and only a smaller amount of oil fumes are dragged in also you can drain of the oil away instead of coating everything in the throttle body and then causing excessive carbon build up in the top of the combustion chamber

 

[1olbull]

@HansO,
Never in over four years a problem with the foam in my box.
Never has it become even damp let alone wet.
I do clean it every 2K - 3K miles and I do plenty "spirited" riding.
Never had an issue with the cap as well.
Perhaps the used nylons you use are not as efficient as real filter foam!

I also agree that I would NOT dump that crap into my intake!

 

[HansO]

@HansO,
Never in over four years a problem with the foam in my box.
Never has it become even damp let alone wet.
I do clean it every 2K - 3K miles and I do plenty "spirited" riding.
Never had an issue with the cap as well.
Perhaps the used nylons you use are not as efficient as real filter foam!

I also agree that I would NOT dump that crap into my intake!

Geeez you ARE full of it!! I would have thought "used nylons" would be more your caper

 

[happyhenry]

unifilters. work great and fit under the claw.i can raise and lower my tank without removing the claw.buy 2 sets and you always have a fresh set to put on

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Concerning crank case venting:

On wet sump engines (not the R3) it is required to have some amount of vacuum to pull the air out, it keeps the sump area cleaner and avoids pressure build up.

On dry sump engines (the R3) is NOT required, as the rank case will already be scavenged and is always at a low pressure. It also has a pressure relief built in to avoid too much vacuum.

That out of the way, its NEVER a bad idea to pull on the crank breather like that, period. You wont get oil up it (barring any mechanical failures) and cylinder #2 is the richest running cylinder, so if you're going to vent it to intake, that's the proper way to do it. The ONLY engines that need even give it a second thought are Carp or Nev motors with top AND bottom end done, even then, its really a massively minuscule chance to effect anything in any negative manner.

If a 2.0 DOHC 24v i4 motor with 10.5:1 pushing 25psi can run with it the sump vented to intake with ZERO detonation issues from the oil for 60,000 miles, then an NA motor with nearly identically shaped chambers and valve angles will have no issues. Anyone who thinks or says otherwise is using flawed knowledge, kind of like "you need back pressure to make power", it's mis-application of partial knowledge. I would however, recommend putting in an in-line PCV valve to between the crank case and intake so the air can only flow from case > intake and not intake > case.

OK do as you please IM warning you not to do this but you choose to do it your way so dont say I didnt warn you

 

[Claviger]

If it's unsafe, please, do explain, why 99% of passenger vehicles manufactured in the last 25 years have their PCVs routed this way, and have no issues with it.