Under bear claw filters

[dave64]

I'm confused. I though the RamAir filter system was the best way to go now days ???

I had one of them a while ago , fell to bits . The rubber cracked and perished , don't know that I would trust another ?

 

[dougl]

The filter on the temperature sensor is only for protection. You could put a short tube over it. The stock wiring is barely long enough to affix the sensor between the front and middle throttle bodies, which is sufficient.

 

[1olbull]

I'm confused. I though the RamAir filter system was the best way to go now days ???

Bill,
Not sure if I caused the confusion, but I was referring to the crankcase breather K&N.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

I cut a small hole in one of the K&N filters on the top (not the filter element itself) that mounts to the throttle body to accept the temp sensor. Just push the sensor in the hole that was cut into the rubber of the filter and it will hold it in place. Technically its not in the direct air flow but it sure is close. I did however mount the small filter to the crankcase breather. Another option in which I will do eventually is run a hose from the crank case breather port to the top of one K&N filters. This will allow the suction of the throttle body pull the gases out of the crankcase into the engine cyclinder and burn the gases up. The way it was intended. Two or three members have already installed this mod.

Pulling the hot gases from the crankcase into a throttle body and into a cyclinder is not a good idea

 

[mully95]

Pulling the hot gases from the crankcase into a throttle body and into a cyclinder is not a good idea

Isn't that the way Triumph had it from the start or did it go through the filter first? I mean the hose from the crankcase was hooked to the intake somewhere if I remember.

 

[Mittzy]

I have used foam stuffed into the breather hole at the bottom of the stock air box for four years with no problems.
I clean it along with my filters and the tools I now carry in there stay clean.

And rust free

 

[leatal]

And rust free

Couldn't you just run the crankcase vent down and below the engine? I think I remembered the old time cars with a line (hose) below the engine that always put out a small amount of oil fumes. As a matter of fact, the Mini Cooper "s" has problems with valve gunk as the crankcase vents into the intake and because of direct injection, clogs up the intake valves. This set-up requires a special media blasting of the intake about every 40,000 miles at a cost of $400.

 

[geno]

Here is a picture of Rocket Scientist's bike. The filter closest to the front has the sensor mounted. The second filter has the crankcase breather hose attached.

Very nice intake their big guy! I'm going to do the same on my 2005 r3 soon, "Be safe"

 

[Claviger]

Concerning crank case venting:

On wet sump engines (not the R3) it is required to have some amount of vacuum to pull the air out, it keeps the sump area cleaner and avoids pressure build up.

On dry sump engines (the R3) is NOT required, as the rank case will already be scavenged and is always at a low pressure. It also has a pressure relief built in to avoid too much vacuum.

That out of the way, its NEVER a bad idea to pull on the crank breather like that, period. You wont get oil up it (barring any mechanical failures) and cylinder #2 is the richest running cylinder, so if you're going to vent it to intake, that's the proper way to do it. The ONLY engines that need even give it a second thought are Carp or Nev motors with top AND bottom end done, even then, its really a massively minuscule chance to effect anything in any negative manner.

If a 2.0 DOHC 24v i4 motor with 10.5:1 pushing 25psi can run with it the sump vented to intake with ZERO detonation issues from the oil for 60,000 miles, then an NA motor with nearly identically shaped chambers and valve angles will have no issues. Anyone who thinks or says otherwise is using flawed knowledge, kind of like "you need back pressure to make power", it's mis-application of partial knowledge. I would however, recommend putting in an in-line PCV valve to between the crank case and intake so the air can only flow from case > intake and not intake > case.

 

[Mittzy]

Couldn't you just run the crankcase vent down and below the engine? I think I remembered the old time cars with a line (hose) below the engine that always put out a small amount of oil fumes. As a matter of fact, the Mini Cooper "s" has problems with valve gunk as the crankcase vents into the intake and because of direct injection, clogs up the intake valves. This set-up requires a special media blasting of the intake about every 40,000 miles at a cost of $400.

I put a filter on mine to stop crap going into the engine