Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

[Tim Forrest]

If you have a Roadster, it absolutely is NOT the same problem - there is minimal* current through the switch on that model
If the switch has been damaged it would likely be due to physical strain on the harness
Even the connector is not a problem on that model, again due to minimal current through it

* couple of amps at worst - few relay coils and the ECU enable and park lights - that's it.

ok understood,,the symptoms were exactly the same as previous ,which lead us to checking out,,we had I busted wire,and a couple suspect,coming around the headstock and into ignition ,1 had been repaired previous,which had a weak spot in it,Ive repaired that,and lengthened it ,another seemed weak,which again Ive lengthened,and shes back running,,maybe the actual amps etc are different,but on mine,,it appears the wiring harness has been maybe been suffering from being slightly too short,,or poor quality wiring to start with,which fatiques over time,and fails,that said,,now I know theres a weak spot,I,m having a mate make up a wiring harness for that area,using some proper quality wiring,,and a little longer to hopefully prevent this again,

 

[ZoneIII]

I have a couple questions about the Easternbeaver kits. I'm thinking I may install one on my 2015 R3T even though the ignition problem apparently isn't a big issue with the single headlight Touring. But I may install one anyway because I sometimes ride with the running (driving) lights on and I'm assuming that's probably drawing about as much current as having two headlights on with a Roadster. Also, I see there are some folks here who've had the ignition problem with their Touring. Easterbeaver discourages asking questions of them, which I understand, and I've alread asked one question of the owner, Jim Davis, so I don't want to bother him again. (He got right back to me.) So, at Jim's recommendation, I'm thinking of getting the H4 single in-shell kit with the extra wire for the running lights. But the kit has an option to include "LO Cut Integrated into this Kit." What exactly is that? Also, the description for the extra lead for the running lights says it plugs into THE toggle switch but the lead doesn't look long enough to reach the running light switch in the left-hand handlbar control housing. (I'll have to go out and see if it can even plug into that toggle switch which would have to be taken apart (no problem) but I'm not sure it would even fit in the switch housing. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding how the running light wire is plugged in. Since the kit is generic and isn't made specifically for the R3T, maybe it can be simply plugged into running light switches on some bikes.

So, has anyone installed this kit on their R3T who can clarify these things before I place an order? That is, what is the "LO cut" option, and how is the extra lead for the running lights connected on an R3T?

Then, maybe the kit is completely unnecessary for my R3T but running the current directly from the battery via relays does make sense to me and I want to eliminate the possibility of finding myself stranded on the side of the road.

Thanks in advance. You folks have been a great help.

 

[DEcosse]

I sometimes ride with the running (driving) lights on and I'm assuming that's probably drawing about as much current as having two headlights on with a Roadster.

Driving Lights current on the R3T does not come through the key-switch - it already has its own OEM relay.

His low-cut option requires another switch and provides the ability to turn off the headlight (in low beam only) completely. You will require your own bar mounted switch to wire that in. You would only get this option if you want that capability to turn your headlight off

Again , you can install that dual kit relay from EB - which involves cutting/splicing your OEM harness - or you can DIY the single relay mod I described earlier, which can be done without compromising OEM wiring (and is fully restore-able if need-be)

 

[Ygransom]

@ZoneIII on my 08 R3T I use his single in fairing kit with the H4 connectors. Easy plug and play and since the relays are under the tank, not in headlight she'll lots of space for install

 

[ZoneIII]

Driving Lights current on the R3T does not come through the key-switch - it already has its own OEM relay.

His low-cut option requires another switch and provides the ability to turn off the headlight (in low beam only) completely. You will require your own bar mounted switch to wire that in. You would only get this option if you want that capability to turn your headlight off

Again , you can install that dual kit relay from EB - which involves cutting/splicing your OEM harness - or you can DIY the single relay mod I described earlier, which can be done without compromising OEM wiring (and is fully restore-able if need-be)

Thanks much! That's very helpful and I'm glad I asked. It's good to know the running lights are on a relay already. Also I don't want or need to turn off the headlight. So I don't think I'll bother with a modification. I may scan over the whole thread again, though, to see if the ignition problem was common with the R3T and, if it has been, I'll go with the modification you mentioned. Thanks again!

 

[mr hunt]

ok understood,,the symptoms were exactly the same as previous ,which lead us to checking out,,we had I busted wire,and a couple suspect,coming around the headstock and into ignition ,1 had been repaired previous,which had a weak spot in it,Ive repaired that,and lengthened it ,another seemed weak,which again Ive lengthened,and shes back running,,maybe the actual amps etc are different,but on mine,,it appears the wiring harness has been maybe been suffering from being slightly too short,,or poor quality wiring to start with,which fatiques over time,and fails,that said,,now I know theres a weak spot,I,m having a mate make up a wiring harness for that area,using some proper quality wiring,,and a little longer to hopefully prevent this again,

I had a similar problem early on with my roadster. Turns out one of the ignition wires got too hot being near the back of the headlights. Made the insulation brittle and ultimately fall off leaving the wire shortting against the headstock. Easy fix but an arse pain to diagnose.

 

[Tim Forrest]

I had a similar problem early on with my roadster. Turns out one of the ignition wires got too hot being near the back of the headlights. Made the insulation brittle and ultimately fall off leaving the wire shortting against the headstock. Easy fix but an arse pain to diagnose.

Hi,,,Ive bodged this up as a get me started bodge,,but after having a real good look at the problem,,on mine anyways,,it seems the wiring loom is a little to short,where it comes from just under front of tank,,to ignition switch,,it come s over the headstock shoulders,which widen as they come down,,,so every time you turn hard right,it stretches the wires a little more,so they slide down a bit more,,then stretch,then next time slide down a little more,,until they just give up,and snap,,or pull out the pins on the connector or off switch itself,,I guess case by case its the same,so ,I,m having a longer harness made which i can route higher,,and clip up out of harms way,it seems incredible to me,,that on such a well made bike,,something as simple as this can cause so much misery??( mine has had a repair before,) But it looks like its pretty much cured,,Happy days

 

[brazeagle]

I am starting this thread and plan to take the post and pass it on the triumph as one big complaint. this is for Ignition switch failure Only So give me your stories.

I will start by giving you mine and you can join in.

I took off on a Friday afternoon for what appeared to be the perfect holiday weekend for a getaway with my wife. Everything was going great the weather was perfect and the roads were great we were on US 421 in Manchester Ky making good time. We were trying to get across the mountain and to our destination, Johnson City Tn before dark. We pulled into a station for fuel and a Bio break and then ready to hit the road. I went to start my my bike and had no power to anything except the horn. My wife was waiting at the edge of the parking lot on her Harley Sportster ready to ride. I tried wiggling the key, checked the cut off switch, and did the usual things you do to get your bike started and still nothing. At this time I had wore out my welcome at the gas pump and the line was getting longer. So I pushed my bike out of the way and told the wife I was having problems. She parked her Harley and asked me what was wrong ? I told her I am sure it was something simple and assured her we would be back on the road in no time. I had just put a new battery on the bike for this trip so I assumed I did not have the connections tight and one must have worked lose. I removed the seat and the connections were fine. I checked the voltage on the battery with a meter and it was fine. By the way I highly suggest if you have a rocket get a cheap meter that checks voltage and continuity and keep it on the bike, I was lucky there was a guy in the parking lot with one. So i determined the battery was OK so i assumed it was a fuse. I proceeded to check the continuity on all the fuses one by one they checked out OK. I cursed and told the wife that the quick fix just became a little more complex and I was going to have to raise the tank. So off I went, removing the windscreen, removing the chrome around the switch housing, pulled the gauges, and raised the tank. I checked the voltage going into the switch and it was good I turned the key on and checked to see if there was voltage on any of the other wires in the harness there was none. At this time I was pretty sure it was the switch and by this time an hour had passed. I started calling people from the site I knew have had this trouble before and asked for suggestions. While I was waiting for a call back I decided I was sure it was the switch and I should go get the supplies needed to bypass before the stores closed. Now come the worse part I had to ask the wife if I could borrow her Harley to go to the auto parts store and I caught myself using a phrase I never though I would say "Thank God For Harley's". So I climbed aboard my wife's sportster 883 low and began my ride of shame to the parts store. by the way for those of you that have never meet me I am not the smallest person in the world and I am sure me riding this 883 looked like a bear humping a dog. So i get the the parts store and started browsing, by the way if you own a rocket I suggest you take good notes because this shopping list will come in handy some day if triumph continues to ignore the problem. I purchased a roll of electrical tape, Wire nuts, Wirestriper/crimpers, 14 gauge wire, and a toggle switch and mounted the Harley one more time and headed back to the stations. While I was gone I got the call I was looking for from NMrocket and he assured me he could walk be through the bypass and get me back on the road. So I put 12" leads on the switch and ran and ran them from under the bearclaw so I could access the switch and it still be hidden. Then I cut the wiring harness and instructed and completed the wiring and tested. I now had power so I reassembled the bike, did I mention that installing the bear claw is a pain in the arse. By this time it was 9:00 pm and we still had about 3 hours to ride most of it in BFE. So we opted to ride a little closer and get a room for the night in the thriving metropolis of hazard Ky were we had the pleasuring of staying in the worse motel ever.

Thanks Triumph for not doing an official recall on the switch that eventually left me stranded as it has a good percentage of rocket owners.

Sincerely

Your not so loyal Customer
Steve Cowherd

Thanks Steve,
I am new here and I am about to buy a 2020 used 1300 miles Rocket 3 GT, but I am starting to think I should not, as Inhave read SO MANY issues with the bike.
Any inputs?
Did you resolve your issues with triumph?
Is it worth it buying it?
Thanks
brazeagle

 

[sonny]

The issues are with the older model bikes. The 2020 seems to have very few built in problems. Just curious You are worried about Triumphs new Rocket but you bought a 2020 road glide ?

 

[OnlyLexus]

Thanks Steve,
I am new here and I am about to buy a 2020 used 1300 miles Rocket 3 GT, but I am starting to think I should not, as Inhave read SO MANY issues with the bike.
Any inputs?
Did you resolve your issues with triumph?
Is it worth it buying it?
Thanks
brazeagle

Yes you are correct, the R3 ignition burnout seems to be on the older models like mine which is a 2007 classic model, which I was forced to fix myself after my R3 broke down in the highlands of Scotland. Thanks to many on this great site I was able to learn how to fix the problem using an eager beaver H4 relay bypass, which you can buy from them. Don't worry about the new rockets having this ignition problem, they don't, because Triumph no longer send the headlight voltage via the ignition, which of course is not designed to handle such high power, it was inevitable that the ignition would heat up and burn out on the older R3 models. Triumph eventually admitted that there was indeed a fault problem with their ignitions, but they only said it was on the Roadster models, NOT SO! They eventually sent out to all their Triumph agencies a new bypass relay part, this to fix the problem, but only on the Roadster, not on the Classic model like mine. If you look on this thread you'll also see my miserable story of when my bike broke down, but eventually I did make it back home. All in all the new Rocket 3 is a fantastic bike and I can say that the ignition problem is no longer an issue on the new models. This site was my saviour in fixing my Rocket 3, the guys on here really know their stuff and I thank them all for their help... they know who they are.