Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

[DEcosse]

On Touring model it is normally the connector terminals (pin 1) that burns rather than switch itself; uncouple that connector & inspect both sides

 

[ZoneIII]

I had forgotten all about this issue until I received an update to this thread. I haven't had this problem but I definitely want to avoid it. I have a 2015 R3T with about 17,.000 miles on it. Before I look into buying an Eastern Beaver kit, I have a couple questions: 1) Hopefully, at some point Triumph acknowedged this problem and rectified it. Does anyone know if the problem may have been fixed making the kit unnecessary for my 2015 R3T? 2) If I install the kit, does the ignition switch still behave the same? Specifically, will the headlight go out while starting? I assume it will but I just wanted to check this out with you folks.

While I'm posting this, I thought I'd mention this since it also involves installing a relay. I got rid of the ridiculous stock horn and replaced it with a set of P1AA horns (NOT air horns). But even though they didn't draw enough current to damage the horn switch, I still installed a relay so the horn current doesn't pass through the horn switch. WOW! Those things are loud! When I have had to use them, I scare the crap out of whoever I honk at and I can see them looking around as if they're searching for whoever honked at them and can't believe it came from a motorcycle. This, of course, is an issue of safety. I rarely honk at anyone and I'm a very patient driver/rider but it sure is good to have lound horns when a car starts to swerve in your lane. I have little doubt that they would be so lound if the current had to pass through the horn switch.

 

[Ygransom]

The R3T did not have as much of an issue since it only has 1 headlight not 2. Triumph did fix it on later models by installing a relay to take the excess current off the switch.

 

[DEcosse]

Triumph did fix it on later models by installing a relay to take the excess current off the switch

That was only on the Roadster - Touring remained with same original scheme throughout the product run

But agree Touring failure much less prevalent due to single headlight (unless something crazy like 100W bulb installed!) As said earlier, if does failm more likely to be the connector than the switch itself (as per the Classic Models mode of failure)

You can apply this mod from earlier in the thread - Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems - that works for the Touring as well as the Classics and is the method used by Triumph on the later Roadster.
You should note that the key-switch switches power to either the Starter Solenoid OR the Headlights - the solenoid current is actually (slightly) higher than even Twin Headlight systems - about 10A although the surge current when button first pressed is even higher. Admittedly this is only of short duration compared to the continuous current of the headlight(s)
This mod will remove BOTH Headlight AND Starter Solenoid current from the Key-Switch
The EB Mod will only bypass the Headlight current

1) Hopefully, at some point Triumph acknowedged this problem and rectified it. Does anyone know if the problem may have been fixed making the kit unnecessary for my 2015 R3T? 2) If I install the kit, does the ignition switch still behave the same? Specifically, will the headlight go out while starting?

To answer your specific questions
1) It has not
2) Well the key-switch is not what deflects the current from headlight when starting, but yes the behaviour of headlight off during starter run will remain.

 

[DMW2lls]

On Touring model it is normally the connector terminals (pin 1) that burns rather than switch itself; uncouple that connector & inspect both sides

Thanks for checking in. I did make a good effort to carefully nudge wires around before proceeding, just to see if I could isolate a loose wire or connection. After seeing the switch was intact and proper with no deformities or scorches I cleaned the contacts and carefully reassembled. Inspecting both ends of the connectors had the same results, no cracking, melting, deformities, scorched pins, etc. Contact cleaner, di-electric grease, and securely connecting everything back up, seemed to do the trick. Something wasn't making good contact (pin 1 I suspect), but at which point wasn't glaringly obvious. I might have felt a little better if I had found the white wire needing to be re-soldered. So it seems fixed for now. Hopefully it won't return as an intermittent problem later.

 

[ZoneIII]

The R3T did not have as much of an issue since it only has 1 headlight not 2. Triumph did fix it on later models by installing a relay to take the excess current off the switch.

Thanks!

 

[ZoneIII]

That was only on the Roadster - Touring remained with same original scheme throughout the product run

But agree Touring failure much less prevalent due to single headlight (unless something crazy like 100W bulb installed!) As said earlier, if does failm more likely to be the connector than the switch itself (as per the Classic Models mode of failure)

You can apply this mod from earlier in the thread - Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems - that works for the Touring as well as the Classics and is the method used by Triumph on the later Roadster.
You should note that the key-switch switches power to either the Starter Solenoid OR the Headlights - the solenoid current is actually (slightly) higher than even Twin Headlight systems - about 10A although the surge current when button first pressed is even higher. Admittedly this is only of short duration compared to the continuous current of the headlight(s)
This mod will remove BOTH Headlight AND Starter Solenoid current from the Key-Switch
The EB Mod will only bypass the Headlight current



To answer your specific questions
1) It has not
2) Well the key-switch is not what deflects the current from headlight when starting, but yes the behaviour of headlight off during starter run will remain.

Thank you very much! I really appreciate your help.

 

[ZoneIII]

The R3T did not have as much of an issue since it only has 1 headlight not 2. Triumph did fix it on later models by installing a relay to take the excess current off the switch.

Thanks much!

 

[Tim Forrest]

Hi. At last, Just found this thread about R3 ignition switch problems. I live in the Highlands of Scotland, not a place you want your bike to break down.. oh No! So, I'm about 60 miles from home when I stop at some traffic lights, the bike just goes dead on me. No lights on ignition, just nothing. I pull over to the kerb and toggle the ignition key on and off, no lights just NOTHING! Now i'm worried. I tug around under the ignition switch thinking that something has come loose, maybe a wire or something.. I turn on the ignition again... still nothing! Its getting dark and I don't like the idea of being stranded in a town that is 3 thousand feel above sea level. up in the mountains, but it looks like I am going to be. I'm getting cold, I'm getting worried and I'm really getting pissed off, what will I do? I leave the bike and walk back to the town I've just passed through, find a pub have a strong cup of coffee and begin to pray. There are no garages here, there is only one phone and that is in the pub i'm sitting in. There are no breakdown rescue services here, I'm too far out in the sticks for that. I pray again, then again. I walk back to my bike an hour later. I just hope that its going to flicker its ignition lights at me when I try the key again. Yes! its on, and I thank God! I get her fired up and I'm on my way. I get down the mountain and then, then, then... as i'm entering another town I lose power and the lights go out again.. ****! I've had enough, I have done nothing that makes me responsible for this ignition failure. I keep my bike in tip top condition, I clean her and give her all the love she needs, so why me! By the grace of God I eventually get the bike home at 6 am in the morning, this after it stopping 7 times with the same ignition fault. Next day, after along sleep, I take a look at the ignition wiring on the bike, looks good to me, what's the problem, I don't know, but I'm sure its the ignition switch, I'm positive of that! So here I am, talking to you, or the person reading this. Now I find out that I'm not the only one that has experienced this R3 ignition switch failure, in fact it is obviously a problem that Triumph know about and probably knew that their crap ignition was going to fail. Now I have my babe, my Rocket 3, just sitting in my shed and I'm wondering how I'm going to fix it, help me!

Good reading,,Ive just had exactly the same problem on my 15 plate Rocket,i knew it was something along these lines,,and it appears the white wire has given trouble before,and has been soldered,it now seems to be further u,,either in the switch,,or contacts in connectors,fast forward,,,,,Ive just ran a jumper wire which sorted the problem out,so i Think i,m just going to put a neat switch in,,out of harms way and hidden up,,to over come this problem,,Ive read it seems to have been re-occuring problem

 

[DEcosse]

Ive just had exactly the same problem on my 15 plate Rocket,

If you have a Roadster, it absolutely is NOT the same problem - there is minimal* current through the switch on that model
If the switch has been damaged it would likely be due to physical strain on the harness
Even the connector is not a problem on that model, again due to minimal current through it

* couple of amps at worst - few relay coils and the ECU enable and park lights - that's it.