The odyssey begins !

The extended warranty is more like third party insurance, right? Because I haven't heard of Triumph having that available. Triumph wants to have happy customers so they may go above and beyond, but third party insurance wants their customers to pay and never claim anything, so any third party insurance will try actively to refuse to pay... just how insurance works.
 
Holy Shyt Fred.. I bring my own molly 60 grease with me every time i get new tires, you don't even want to know what some stealers are using.. For some of us this would be a financial nightmare. Good luck putting Humpty back together again... at least with this forum your with all the kings horses and all the kings men.
 
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Just had mine done at nearby shop .They flat rated the job at 9.5 hrs so It cost me just over $1400.00 Cdn including parts .I had a squeal and now it's gone -the piece of mind is priceless .
 
Just had mine done at nearby shop .They flat rated the job at 9.5 hrs so It cost me just over $1400.00 Cdn including parts .I had a squeal and now it's gone -the piece of mind is priceless .

Sounds like like you got a bargain ! My guess is they lost their arse on the deal.
 

I haven't completely removed the engine, it's still hanging by the front mount. Can I remove the mains ladder without the crank trying to fall out ? I would like to have a look in there.
 
I haven't completely removed the engine, it's still hanging by the front mount. Can I remove the mains ladder without the crank trying to fall out ? I would like to have a look in there.
yes you can the main ladder only exposes the rods and the inside of the engine you have to split the case to remove the main bearings. below is a picture with the main bearing ladder and windage tray removed you can do this whilt the engien is in the bike I did it the first time I blew mine up just the clean out the inside. You can also change the rods this way or pull them to change the pistons verses pulling the piston liners. It is much easier. Although if you pull the rods you should use new rod bolts going back unless you have crower rods.

 
The splines look they where run dry at some time with obvious metal to metal contact wear
 
The splines look they where run dry at some time with obvious metal to metal contact wear

Could be. The first time I took the rear wheel out they looked dry. They could have been damaged then and I just didn't notice it. I think they will make to end of this tire then I'll look into getting a good drive shaft and final drive.