Thank You Mr. Penner

I'm glad the charger worked for you and apparently others as well. I just rather follow the instructions as laid out by the people who created the tool I'm using and eliminate any possibly detrimental variables.
 
Hi, I've been looking into tuning my GT 2020 model and was talking with TTS Tuning in England and he builds some stonking supercharged Rockets and he advised me not to bother with the DNA filter as the standard Triumph filter is still flowing enough for over 300bhp. Interested if anyone with as much experience and Dyno time as them has any Dyno figures prove the DNA filter is worth it.
P.S. I'm just looking to release what Triumph never gave us, with a Zard can and maybe some custom headers but they need to follow the factory style because I love the look of those headers.
 
I agree.
The real intake restriction is hardly ever the filter.
It is a nice to have, but don´t expect any gains worth to mention with just a filter change.
 
Penner said:
I agree.
The real intake restriction is hardly ever the filter.
It is a nice to have, but don´t expect any gains worth to mention with just a filter change.
Click to expand...
Hi, If I was replacing the filter in a service would the DNA filter be worth getting instead of a standard Triumph filter. P.S. Does anyone else make a high flow filter for the 2.5's? I've spoken to K&N over here in the UK but they have no plans to make one (not enough demand).
 
I think short answer is no. The filter's airflow when new doesn't add any ponies regardless of brand or type. Your bike would run the same with no air filter installed (until enough damage was done to affect the engine compression). You can throw any numbers on a filter ad and it's difficult to impossible to prove it doesn't do what they claim because air is colorless and odorless. If I said I made an air filter that flows 50% more air with better filtration than a paper filter, that would be at the upper limit of dP across the filter and the only way to get that kind of pressure on the outside of the filter is with a blower of some type taking suction on the filter. Atmospheric pressure is at maximum at sea level (low tide) on the water's surface and can only get less from there as you add altitude. Assuming you aren't trying to snorkel your bike in the Marianna Trench it will never flow more air using one type of filter vs. another (I'm excluding HEPA filtration here). The real advantage of any gauze filter is they are washable, meaning it's no longer a consumable air filter. The air flow claims on the package don't describe how it works on your bike.
 
Protonhound said:
So with the beast making 190hp at the crank with the tune what hp does that translate to at the wheel?
Click to expand...
Average loss between crank and RW is 15% to 18%. So, based on worst case scenario the MINIMUM RWP should be near 156 HP on the dyno.
 
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