FYI and a little poke in fun, Amigo.
From my physics class at Texas A&M, I was learned that technically there really is no such thing as centripetal force.
No force pulls an object to the center of a radius. The spin of the cylinder creates a lateral force competing with the linear force. Once the wall rotates fast enough to develop more g-force (centrifugal) to the riders than their weight, the floor can drop without issue. The wall simply holds the folks in place and keeps them from flying away in a straight line.
As you stated, "Objects (including people) in motion tend to travel in a straight line at constant speed unless they're acted on by some external force" Newton's 1st Law. The wall acts like a string holding a ball that is being spun in a circle producing that "external" or lateral force. Cut the string and the ball flies straight, tangent to its path, not in a circle.
The wall does not actually force the peeps inward to the center, but produces lateral (external) force by its rotation.
In our vehicle world, lateral force is generated by the tires of a turning vehicle attempting to overcome the linear force holding it in a straight line. This produces centrifugal force (car turn left, but driver wants to move right).

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Recently figured out front fork tubes were not even with upper surface of the top yoke. Came from the factory like that. So we fixed that problem and adjusted the steering bearings for the second time. No we did not loosen the bottom yoke there is no need for that when adjusting the tension on the bearings due to design. Wobble disappeared. Still had a slight wobble over 120 mph. Replaced Avon Cobra with a Dunlop Three Elite and high speed wobble is gone. Run a Bridgestone car tire on the rear and the Dunlop works well with it. Not to crazy about the Avons. Did notice that when installing the front tire the alignment on the left rotor was not centered. Gentle tighten the pinch bolts and pushed in the right fork until rotor on left was centered with the brake caliper. Tighten pinch bolts and everything stayed centered. I can understand how the engine mounts could affect handling but believe a lot of wobble problems stem from improper adjustment of stem bearings and installing the front tire incorrectly. Really like how the Elite Three Dunlop handles.:):)
 
I was looking at the dunlop elete 3. To bad they do not make a 140 radial for the front. But atleast they have a 150. Also a 240 and 250 rear radial.
 
Recently figured out front fork tubes were not even with upper surface of the top yoke. Came from the factory like that. So we fixed that problem and adjusted the steering bearings for the second time. No we did not loosen the bottom yoke there is no need for that when adjusting the tension on the bearings due to design. Wobble disappeared. Still had a slight wobble over 120 mph. Replaced Avon Cobra with a Dunlop Three Elite and high speed wobble is gone. Run a Bridgestone car tire on the rear and the Dunlop works well with it. Not to crazy about the Avons. Did notice that when installing the front tire the alignment on the left rotor was not centered. Gentle tighten the pinch bolts and pushed in the right fork until rotor on left was centered with the brake caliper. Tighten pinch bolts and everything stayed centered. I can understand how the engine mounts could affect handling but believe a lot of wobble problems stem from improper adjustment of stem bearings and installing the front tire incorrectly. Really like how the Elite Three Dunlop handles.:):)
A lot of front end wobbles come from the the back wheel and tire
 
And some motors get installed cockeyed. Some get cockeyed from installing crash bars whether dealer or other. It is much easier and cheaper to check that the engine is in straight then it is to replace the asphalt

Warpo,
A GREAT thought for anyone with tracking issues!
I've done triple clamps, swing-arms and goose-neck, but never thought about engine mounts.
 
Recently figured out front fork tubes were not even with upper surface of the top yoke. Came from the factory like that. So we fixed that problem and adjusted the steering bearings for the second time. No we did not loosen the bottom yoke there is no need for that when adjusting the tension on the bearings due to design. Wobble disappeared. Still had a slight wobble over 120 mph. Replaced Avon Cobra with a Dunlop Three Elite and high speed wobble is gone. Run a Bridgestone car tire on the rear and the Dunlop works well with it. Not to crazy about the Avons. Did notice that when installing the front tire the alignment on the left rotor was not centered. Gentle tighten the pinch bolts and pushed in the right fork until rotor on left was centered with the brake caliper. Tighten pinch bolts and everything stayed centered. I can understand how the engine mounts could affect handling but believe a lot of wobble problems stem from improper adjustment of stem bearings and installing the front tire incorrectly. Really like how the Elite Three Dunlop handles.:):)

I have ran several Elite 3 tires on a different motor.
They are terrific tires!
Only wish they made a 240/16.
 
I use to be able to do it all the time without issue. I put a new tyre on and picked up a screw in the first 100 ks.... well I plugged it(don't like to on the front) and rode the bike accordingly. Well I took my hands off the handlebars at about 80, nearly had a tank slapped!!!!
Spoke to my tyre guy and he said the plug would be enough to throw off the geometry of the wheel...... so I asked weather a loss of a weight could do it, yes he said but road surfaces (potholes) can also change the rims geometry.....
Food for thought. I alway keep one hand near and if I need to relight a smoke, I pull up!
 
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