Got a reply from Scott, putting here for search ability:

Scott Damper mounting 54mm spacing M6x20 bolts.

They have a under bar mount that “almost” fits, could be made to work with a drill and 5 minutes, part number 100 40 43.

Also for search, straight from their mouth: there are only two versions, dirt and street. SCOTT dampers are identical inside regardless of which bike they go on, so the weight being controlled won’t be an issue.

They may have a headstock clamp with pin mount that will fit, sending them some measurements for that part tonight.

The Triumph TT600 kit is no longer available to purchase :(
Ok ill look for the mount. On the head stock clamp I looked at that but alas the steering lock on the front of our steering neck is in the way.
 
Ok here is the idea I had. The front plate may be omitted I think safely, however, I like the idea of them pieces being tied together for rigidity. All using aluminum stock that's easily obtained. For scott's leave it the orientation it is, for GPR, flip the sandwitched L bracket so the tabs sticking inwards are towards the 134mm wide brace piece.

The whole stock assembly will go on top, and the studs would be replaced with stock length + 40mm. They're M10x1.25 studs.

Slotted L brackets mean you can center it "perfectly" over the stem regardless of Triumph's tolerances on parts.

Thoughts? It's cheap, can be built by hand, and fairly fool proof if you can measure twice cut once!
New Design.jpg


Just realized, even if both dampers wont fit, you'd only have to replace the sandwiched L pieces to make it interchange, easy peasy.
 
I have an idea for the pin mount as well that’ll keep cost minimal but I’ll need to get the rest assembled and fitted to ensure it’ll work. Should be around $10 for the whole pin mount and pin.
 
Hmmm not a bad idea
Lifts the bars 1.75 " up maybe higher depending on how much protrudes below the body of the damper (Scott's model) and the height of the steering stem nut off the upper yoke . (Cable length change or reroute) you have the slots to center up one axis, have you given thought about the other?

Back to my first cup of coffee and the technical library for more pondering :D
 
Hmmm not a bad idea
Lifts the bars 1.75 " up maybe higher depending on how much protrudes below the body of the damper (Scott's model) and the height of the steering stem nut off the upper yoke . (Cable length change or reroute) you have the slots to center up one axis, have you given thought about the other?

Back to my first cup of coffee and the technical library for more pondering :D

Now that you mention it the other axis can be adjusted by making the L pieces have ovals instead of holes and using a nut for the damper mounting points.
 
Now that you mention it the other axis can be adjusted by making the L pieces have ovals instead of holes and using a nut for the damper mounting points.

I'm kind of curious as to how you're going to center it? Sure you have figured out a way to shift in both planes now, but how are you going to measure or set up an indicator to center it? That's why my mounting plate centers on the steering stem. It is the datum everything was designed from that point.


Now back to the duct work :)
 
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