slipping out of 2nd and 3rd into neutral

I'm also having intermittent problems starting:

No problems with power, key turns on accessory lights, etc. Kill switch works normally.

Push the start button, nothing happens.

I can get it to turn over after "fiddling with it" meaning turning the key off and on, or the kill switch off and on, dropping and lifting the kickstand and however I cannot be certain that any of these things is what is "fixing" the problem. I suspect this might be because I rock the bike back and forth while "fiddling", so it's possible that it's a loose contact, or a problem sensor.

Thoughts??
 
Going from 1st to 3rd without releasing and engaging second will not do any damage at all.

I agree with @Claviger, bypassing second wouldn't hurt anything in the trans. I'm curious why you are doing it ? Unless your winding it up some in first, jumping straight to 3rd seems like you would be lugging the engine. I try not to make my engine pull under 2000 rpm's unless I'm puttering in first gear.

Happy to hear something solid on skipping gears. I usually get up to about 4000 RPM in 2nd and skip through third to 4th gear within the same clutch pull. Not always, just when I want to show off.:laugh:
 
batman tool.png


I probably only need something that locks a couple cogs. Anyone know what tool accomplishes this, aside from the lucky man with the CNC. Is there a name for such a tool, other than the batman tool, which is what I would have called it.
EBC CT Series Clutch Removal Tool / Each (CT021) | eBay
 
I'm also having intermittent problems starting:

No problems with power, key turns on accessory lights, etc. Kill switch works normally.

Push the start button, nothing happens.

I can get it to turn over after "fiddling with it" meaning turning the key off and on, or the kill switch off and on, dropping and lifting the kickstand and however I cannot be certain that any of these things is what is "fixing" the problem. I suspect this might be because I rock the bike back and forth while "fiddling", so it's possible that it's a loose contact, or a problem sensor.

Thoughts??
Are your headlights "Bright"? If they are at all dull you might want to talk to our resident guru on all things electrical @DEcosse - He makes a fantastic Key-less ignition system that fixes the exsesive load to the OEM ignition Key.
 
Think about that force, it’s directly loaded into the main bearings for the crank and very robust trans input bearing.

Zero risk.

Certainly it’s not text book but its been done for decades.

Some thing I should ad Rob, the rag method is O.K. for Guys who have some mechanical aptitude.
But there are people out there who haven't got a clue and do things like this and stuff it up.

Many years ago (about 30) I was doing something that was O.K. for me doing it as I knew what I was doing.
The trouble was that there was a guy there watching that as I was doing this I was thinking "I shouldn't be doing this in front of this Knuckle head"

And sure enough he turns up a few days later with a busted Engine case, he had stuck a washer (steel) between the oil pump gears (Trident) and had tried to undo the main crank nut that holds the drive sprocket on !
 
I'm also having intermittent problems starting:

No problems with power, key turns on accessory lights, etc. Kill switch works normally.

Push the start button, nothing happens.

I can get it to turn over after "fiddling with it" meaning turning the key off and on, or the kill switch off and on, dropping and lifting the kickstand and however I cannot be certain that any of these things is what is "fixing" the problem. I suspect this might be because I rock the bike back and forth while "fiddling", so it's possible that it's a loose contact, or a problem sensor.

Thoughts??

I'll bet you a beer it's the ignition, I fiddled with the key for a year till I finally bought the DeCosse keyless ignition. Cost was a little less than buying a replacement Triumph ignition that had already proven itself to be neither reliable nor durable.
 
Don't use pliers to install the new one. There is a theory proposed by someone on here (sorry cant remember who) that they were installed with pliers at the factory which may have knicked some of them. Over time the knick turned into a crack, then they failed. I use a stiff piece of wire with a hook bent on the end to pull the spring to the mounting hole without damaging it.
 
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