Rocket running poorly, suggestions welcomed

The fuel tank has 2 ventilation hoses on the left side. One of the two hoses has a black plastic valve under the left side cover to prevent accidental leakage of the gasoline when the motorcycle has fallen over. This valve can sometimes jam and create a vacuum in the tank that interferes with the function of the gasoline pump. I would recommend removing this valve easily. The valve is attached to the frame with a clip. It's useless.
Regards, Georg

......unless your bike falls over...

skydog1000 said:

you will more than likely have to put a screw in the end of the hose for the new caps on the carburetor.

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Paul, I can’t find my carburetor

Scholle said:

The fuel tank has 2 ventilation hoses on the left side. One of the two hoses has a black plastic valve under the left side cover to prevent accidental leakage of the gasoline when the motorcycle has fallen over. This valve can sometimes jam and create a vacuum in the tank that interferes with the function of the gasoline pump. I would recommend removing this valve easily. The valve is attached to the frame with a clip. It's useless.
Regards, Georg

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To go a step further, you can cap off the 2nd line at the tank, leaving only the overflow vent line attached to the tank. The second vent line is only useful for the EVAP canister setup, something I doubt your 2005 even has. As Scholle mentions, it just creates unnecessary complication with the airflow in/out of the tank.

I doubt this is the issue the OP is experiencing.

05 !!! fuel filter and lines. I'll bet you the shop won't have the socket to get the spark plugs out either. And if they have never heard of Tune ECU, I don't think I'd let them near the bike.

Good news is, a $7 fuel filter will get you going if that's the problem, and every parts store will have it.

It seems pretty unlikely that it's plugs, if it is there's something else wrong, and there's two for each cylinder, besides.

Mad Dog said:

Ok, you’ve been having battery connection problems awhile. Loctite will not conduct electricity well so it ain’t helping. Have you tried a lock washer?

Question to the group, will the bike run without a battery?

The alternator should be putting out 13-15v @ 2000 rpm according to the manual. Seems to me if you’re running on the highway above 2000 you should be making enough juice to power the engine and lights and charge the battery, otherwise the battery would eventually run dead.
The exception would be if you had a bad battery with a dead cell or partial short leaching power.

An auto parts store can test your battery. A cheap voltmeter can be had for 20-30 bucks probly at that store to tell you if your alternator or voltage regulator is bad. The manual pages with the tests are attached to this post

It’s also hard to ignore @phar2slo with similar symptoms caused by loose coil connections.

You’re on the road with limited tools, Occam’s razor applies, I think cover the simple stuff first. How does you air filter look? What about fuel filter? Fuel pump? What’s an easy way to check those items guys? @Claviger , @warp9.9 ,@Speedy , @R-III-R Turbo help out a brother on the road!

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Thanks Dog. If it's the 05 i would guess the primary TPS could be the problem.

Once had a similar issue, started & idled fine too, it bogged a lot in moving off situations too, once the revs were up it ran fine too.
It was a couple of spark plug threads had become corroded so the plugs weren't earthing on the head right, so they weren't sparking. In fact the ignition voltage caused the spark to start jumping from a HT lead to the cam cover (arcing/tracking), because it couldn't get to earth via the plug.
Cleaned the threads to become shiny and "dielectric" greased them, all was well.

Don't think it sounds like the MAP or vac hoses, if it starts and idles fine. Nor fuel pump/filter/pressure issue since it runs fine on the highway with the revs up. I could be wrong.
If it's only bogging down when moving off.

Re radiator fan, perhaps the expansion bottle being empty means some air got into the rad/coolant circuit and now it easily 'heats up' to the point the fan comes on. Needs bleeding.

Oh and re spark plugs removal, I found a shiny 18mm Hex (not Bi-Hex) deep socket, 3/8" drive, with a rubber grommet shoved into it, fits down the spark plug towers good and will hold the plug enough to lift it out.

OK, the rescue team can stand down. I’m back in action.

I appreciate all the guidance and calming influence.

I picked the bike up from K&G Cycles around 1pm and made a 120 problem free run to the southernmost tip of the U.S. and am heading into Key West to check out the 40th annual Fantasy Fest.

They inspected the hoses (no leaks), adjusted my clutch cable and replaced the spark plugs.

Two were OK, two were so-so and two were really bad.

I also added more gas treatment as I do believe I also had some water from crappy gas.

Glad to hear you are back on the road. Would have been a shame to miss Fantasy Fest!!!

bob