rocket engine noise

Alan dent

Standard Bore
Thread starter
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
9
Ride
rocket touring 2012
Sorry Alan just sitting here on pain killers and thought i would try some humor !!!! Ok so it won't become my day job. all the same your bike is almost new so the first thing I would do is run the bolts as it sounds like something is expanding when the bike warms up. thing like all the exhaust bolts and shields even the cross over and where the header pipe dumps down. all this will kind of be in your area. While your at it keep a eye on the header bolts as they loosen up when new and make a rattle sound also. as for in the engine the lower right hand side of the engine is crank, crank balancing shaft in which both run the length of the engine on the right side. the rear flywheel and stater fit on the back of the crank. other then that most of the moving parts are on the right side of the engine. I am not saying you are hearing things but I think you should spend the time and check the bolts as you would not believe how many times one has been the culprit.
Hopefully it is yours or something you hearing from a different area like the slop in the lifter piece which does rattle. After you check the bolts we shall move on. Mean while I will ponder on it a bit more.

Now above ride Free had to have his taken apart and rebuilt. Maybe he knows what they replaced to fix the problem. Just in case as Ride free is one of the few that I have heard of that need complete engine work on a new motor which is a bummer but in the scheme of things that is a low percentage.
 

CanberraR3

Living Legend
Joined
May 27, 2010
Messages
11,162
Location
Canberra, Australia
Ride
Triumphs, but no Rocket just now.
I am so proud of you guy for not tearing our newest member a new a$$. You are all gentlemen??
And welcome alan.
The moderators sensitivity training must be working!! Lol

Don't go calling people names. I was thinking about it, OK. ;)
 

Alan dent

Standard Bore
Thread starter
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
9
Ride
rocket touring 2012
Hi, Thanks for the reply, We have done all the checking we can. nothinhg loose found. When I start from cold i have about 2-3 min befor I start to loose the noise. It is very odd, it is as load as a well run out big end but with a " clanking sound in time with the engine revs. I am used to noise as I owned yam wild stars and XV1900's. This is a single item low at the rear. I have a exstended warrranty so its going to the dealer. Its a shame as After getting rid of the metzler tyres and fitting avons it rides great. Thanks to you all for your Help.
 

warp9.9

Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
11,275
Location
Forest City Illinois
Ride
07 Rocket
Hi, Thanks for the reply, We have done all the checking we can. nothinhg loose found. When I start from cold i have about 2-3 min befor I start to loose the noise. It is very odd, it is as load as a well run out big end but with a " clanking sound in time with the engine revs. I am used to noise as I owned yam wild stars and XV1900's. This is a single item low at the rear. I have a exstended warrranty so its going to the dealer. Its a shame as After getting rid of the metzler tyres and fitting avons it rides great. Thanks to you all for your Help.
Just wait until you get it sorted out and try a Bridgestone Exedra Max on the rear with the Avon front its amazing especially the longer rear tire mileage.
The noise you say your bike is making sounds like it may have a rod problem on the big end. But since your under warranty your limited as to what you can do and not void the warranty. Otherwise I would suggest pulling the lower sump pan for inspection. you can even check the big rod ends from there if you want. In order to do this you will have to pull the 8 main ladder bearing bolts to remove it and the oil baffle on the crank. Below is a picture of the main bearing ladder I was referring to. note the 8 bolts Main ladder bolts that go completely thru to the upper block. the eight main ladder bolts (large ones) and the three oil tube line bolts you have to remove and can be done while the engine is in the bike. are circled in red.

main bearing ladder.jpg


below is a picture with the ladder and oil baffle removed so you can see the rods (big end)

crank and rod main bearing area.jpg



but the pan is a good indicator as to where your losing metal and how bad. Things like the output drive bearings can be inspected this way because when they go you will see the parts of the cage right below the bearing s in the sump pan. You can inspect the rod one at at time while the engine is together but the rod bolts are stretch bolts (waste bolts) and should be replaced every time. Note you are not releasing the timing between the crank and the cam so once you put her back together she should run just fine. Also you will be amazed at the swarf that is caught in the screens already most of which are from manufacturing of the engine as you never can get it all clean out. Personally If I bought a new Roadster it would be done right when I did my 500 mile oil change over to synthetic and probably again at the 5000 mile change. I have had mine off 5 times now and have not changed the gasket except for the first time.
Hope this helps any other question feel free to ask away.
Tomorrow I will be on a 800 mile ride to pick up my retirement present to myself so I might not be on the sites for s day or two except at the motels.
 

Alan dent

Standard Bore
Thread starter
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
9
Ride
rocket touring 2012
Just wait until you get it sorted out and try a Bridgestone Exedra Max on the rear with the Avon front its amazing especially the longer rear tire mileage.
The noise you say your bike is making sounds like it may have a rod problem on the big end. But since your under warranty your limited as to what you can do and not void the warranty. Otherwise I would suggest pulling the lower sump pan for inspection. you can even check the big rod ends from there if you want. In order to do this you will have to pull the 8 main ladder bearing bolts to remove it and the oil baffle on the crank. Below is a picture of the main bearing ladder I was referring to. note the 8 bolts Main ladder bolts that go completely thru to the upper block. the eight main ladder bolts (large ones) and the three oil tube line bolts you have to remove and can be done while the engine is in the bike. are circled in red.

main bearing ladder.jpg


below is a picture with the ladder and oil baffle removed so you can see the rods (big end)

crank and rod main bearing area.jpg



but the pan is a good indicator as to where your losing metal and how bad. Things like the output drive bearings can be inspected this way because when they go you will see the parts of the cage right below the bearing s in the sump pan. You can inspect the rod one at at time while the engine is together but the rod bolts are stretch bolts (waste bolts) and should be replaced every time. Note you are not releasing the timing between the crank and the cam so once you put her back together she should run just fine. Also you will be amazed at the swarf that is caught in the screens already most of which are from manufacturing of the engine as you never can get it all clean out. Personally If I bought a new Roadster it would be done right when I did my 500 mile oil change over to synthetic and probably again at the 5000 mile change. I have had mine off 5 times now and have not changed the gasket except for the first time.
Hope this helps any other question feel free to ask away.
Tomorrow I will be on a 800 mile ride to pick up my retirement present to myself so I might not be on the sites for s day or two except at the motels.
Just wait until you get it sorted out and try a Bridgestone Exedra Max on the rear with the Avon front its amazing especially the longer rear tire mileage.
The noise you say your bike is making sounds like it may have a rod problem on the big end. But since your under warranty your limited as to what you can do and not void the warranty. Otherwise I would suggest pulling the lower sump pan for inspection. you can even check the big rod ends from there if you want. In order to do this you will have to pull the 8 main ladder bearing bolts to remove it and the oil baffle on the crank. Below is a picture of the main bearing ladder I was referring to. note the 8 bolts Main ladder bolts that go completely thru to the upper block. the eight main ladder bolts (large ones) and the three oil tube line bolts you have to remove and can be done while the engine is in the bike. are circled in red.

main bearing ladder.jpg


below is a picture with the ladder and oil baffle removed so you can see the rods (big end)

crank and rod main bearing area.jpg



but the pan is a good indicator as to where your losing metal and how bad. Things like the output drive bearings can be inspected this way because when they go you will see the parts of the cage right below the bearing s in the sump pan. You can inspect the rod one at at time while the engine is together but the rod bolts are stretch bolts (waste bolts) and should be replaced every time. Note you are not releasing the timing between the crank and the cam so once you put her back together she should run just fine. Also you will be amazed at the swarf that is caught in the screens already most of which are from manufacturing of the engine as you never can get it all clean out. Personally If I bought a new Roadster it would be done right when I did my 500 mile oil change over to synthetic and probably again at the 5000 mile change. I have had mine off 5 times now and have not changed the gasket except for the first time.
Hope this helps any other question feel free to ask away.
Tomorrow I will be on a 800 mile ride to pick up my retirement present to myself so I might not be on the sites for s day or two except at the motels.
 

Alan dent

Standard Bore
Thread starter
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
9
Ride
rocket touring 2012
Thanks for your help. I will let you know the outcome.yours alan
 

Gregger

Top Fuel
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
1,829
Location
Timmins, Ontario
Ride
2012 Rocket Roadster
One cause of engine noise which is more prominent when cold, disappearing when hot, can be scuffed pistons. The piston skirt collapses a bit often by lack of lube, overheating, over revving when cold etc, which leads to piston slap which can sound loud. As the skirt expands it takes up the excess clearance and can almost disappear. If your con rod bearings are ok, you might want to look at this.
 

Alan dent

Standard Bore
Thread starter
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
9
Ride
rocket touring 2012
One cause of engine noise which is more prominent when cold, disappearing when hot, can be scuffed pistons. The piston skirt collapses a bit often by lack of lube, overheating, over revving when cold etc, which leads to piston slap which can sound loud. As the skirt expands it takes up the excess clearance and can almost disappear. If your con rod bearings are ok, you might want to look at this.
Hi, Thanks for your reply but, this is 1 noise and is like hitting a dustbin lid with a hammer!!!!
 

cusso ken

Living Legend
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
3,602
Location
Central Coast NSW Australia
Ride
2011 Rocket 3 touring
Gee Alan the noises I have experience with my Rocket are ticking like a noisy clock a bit of whirring like an electric motor and a faint rattle like a small child's toy rattle , I think you may have to take the bike back(on a trailer) from whence it came for a good coat of looking at, honestly if the noise is that bad it will only end in tears, if you continue to ride it.
 

Rocket Scientist

Grand Exulted Poobah
Joined
Sep 27, 2009
Messages
6,482
Location
Spring Lake, Michigan
Ride
Black 05' Rocket III standard
I heard from Blastedbones (he's primarily on .com) that a couple of guys from OZ got new bikes (early models) with gudgeon pin (what we call wrist pins) problems.
 

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