Rocket 3 Roadster Possibly Overheating?

[R-III-R Turbo]

Did you drain the expansion bottle or leave it hanging upside down before removing the rad cap?

 

[atomsplitter]

Did you drain the expansion bottle or leave it hanging upside down before removing the rad cap?

Wouldn't removing the expansion tank hose at the radiator do the same thing?

 

[buddazero]

UPDATE:

So the Radiator cap (OEM) finally came!

Before let’s recap: As I stated before, when taking off the cap a few days ago (bike had been off for like a couple of days at this point), coolant starting spilling out, I also loosened the bleed bolt during that time and fluid starting spilling a tiny bit. Because there was so much coolant that had spilled I didn’t add coolant.

This morning I just replaced the old cap with the new one (I lost the tiny safety screw). I noticed that the coolant wasn’t filled to the brim anymore, probably because days before I kept opening and closing the Rad Cap. Also I couldn’t see and fluid in the expansion, no matter how hard I shook. I have to take off the bear claw to get a closer look tomorrow. BUT anyways, after replacing the rad cap only, I noticed right away that it took longer for the coolant/bike to heat up. Radiator came on when coolant temp hit 103 C.

When I rode it, it didn’t feel hot, not at first. Because I’m paranoid I think any little heat is bad. It’s about 80°F here in New York City. As I rode or hit stand still traffic, it got hot fast, but then it cooled as I rode. Where as before it just stayed hot no matter what.

The temps fluctuated. By the end of the ride I plugged in tune Ecu quickly. Coolant temp was between 111c and 112c. Before temps were reaching around 118c. So, there’s definitely a difference.

My mechanic friends here suggest that I do the process, of opening the bleed bolt, fill radiator to the brim, once I see coolant streaming from bleed bolt, tighten it again (I have the torque wrench and everything). Basically, do the whole process that we discussed.

Pic below shows the temps after my ride, I only had the bike off for about 15 seconds before turning it back on and plugged in tune Ecu. So the temps you’re seeing should be about accurate.

What do you guys think?

 

[atomsplitter]

If it's running cooler the rad cap was your problem. Definitely need to get the expansion tank level sorted and it never hurts to do another fill and vent of the cooling system. Give it a day to cool down to ambient and then pull the rad cap, after which crack open the bleed bolt. Add coolant till it's coming out of the bleeder bolt then tighten bleeder and replace rad cap. Then add coolant to expansion tank to just below MAX and Bob's your uncle, done. Go ride it.

 

[buddazero]

If it's running cooler the rad cap was your problem. Definitely need to get the expansion tank level sorted and it never hurts to do another fill and vent of the cooling system. Give it a day to cool down to ambient and then pull the rad cap, after which crack open the bleed bolt. Add coolant till it's coming out of the bleeder bolt then tighten bleeder and replace rad cap. Then add coolant to expansion tank to just below MAX and Bob's your uncle, done. Go ride it.

Copy that. I guess my main question is, what is a normal riding temp with the rocket on average? Is there a certain number that one should aim for?

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

So the root cause was indeed the faulty rad cap then. Simple fix.
You're almost home now.

Did you drain the expansion bottle or leave it hanging upside down before removing the rad cap the first time?
Guessing not, and that's why all the coolant came out - the expansion bottle is above the rad cap, so when you remove the rad cap without draining the exp bottle or at least hanging it upside down, coolant will flow out.
Important detail, mentioned in post #4 & again in #18.

Will you do us a favour and now follow the reiterated fill & bleed instruction given in post #36.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

If it's running cooler the rad cap was your problem. Definitely need to get the expansion tank level sorted and it never hurts to do another fill and vent of the cooling system. Give it a day to cool down to ambient and then pull the rad cap, after which crack open the bleed bolt. Add coolant till it's coming out of the bleeder bolt then tighten bleeder and replace rad cap. Then add coolant to expansion tank to just below MAX and Bob's your uncle, done. Go ride it.

Be careful, the bleed screw is not the highest point in the closed system, just a bleed on a system pocket prone to trap air.
You have to bleed at the bleed bolt, then keep topping up at the rad cap as I've described, BEFORE replacing rad cap.
If one replaces the rad cap once bleeding is done at the bleed bolt, that's premature as there will still be air in the top of the rad etc, anywhere higher than the bleed bolt.

 

[buddazero]

No I didn’t turn it upside down, but since I’m more comfortable with operating on my bike now, I can turn it upside down, I believe it’s just a bolt I need to undo. I was just nervous to unscrew more things But so far things have been pretty straight forward.

But yes, after having it cool down after a day I’ll do what everyone, including you spoke about, like mentioned in Post 36.

Because the radiator isn’t filled to the brim anymore, does that makes it prone to air now? Any case, I crack open the bleed bolt as I pour in the new coolant, and once I see a steady stream of come out the bleed bolt, I tighten it, then put rad cap on, all the while doing this the expansion bottle is upside down.

I’ll look at post 36 and what we discussed but I believe that everything to do right?

Do think my dealer straight up lied to my face, saying it’s all in my head, and with a Bad Rad Cap like that, where it was clearly leaking! After this experienced I’m a changed man lol

I’ll be doing my oil change next year too

 

[atomsplitter]

Copy that. I guess my main question is, what is a normal riding temp with the rocket on average? Is there a certain number that one should aim for?

It will run warmer in summer than winter for sure. The cooling available is dependent on differential temperature heat source to heat sink and mass flow rate of the coolant. It's all controlled by the thermostat in the system which depends on the accuracy of a thermal spring. If you want to be sure the thermostat is working optimally there are tests you can perform, however they all require the thermostat be removed from the system to perform testing. If you're going that far, just replace with a new thermostat and be done with it. The thermostat is set to begin opening at 88C and should be fully open at about 100C.

 

[buddazero]

It will run warmer in summer than winter for sure. The cooling available is dependent on differential temperature heat source to heat sink and mass flow rate of the coolant. It's all controlled by the thermostat in the system which depends on the accuracy of a thermal spring. If you want to be sure the thermostat is working optimally there are tests you can perform, however they all require the thermostat be removed from the system to perform testing. If you're going that far, just replace with a new thermostat and be done with it.

I don’t believe that’s necessary at this point I think we’re at good standing and I just need to do what we talked about after the bike cools down!