Yes, someone responded with the same procedure earlier. Thank you for the part number, I'll be ordering it as well as the proper coolant. I have an old bike lift but if you have specific recommendations for a lift that would be great, although I don't think it's necessary, I may just put a piece of wood on the kick stand.
I have the manual and will take a look, but just to clear up a few things:
1) Expansion Tank is the plastic tank underneath he Bear Claw, that has the Min/Max markings correct? YES, the hose from the radiator goes to the expansion tank bottle, so just trace where that rubber hose goes to and you found the tank.
2) Rad Cap is also referred to as the Pressure Cap, Yes? This Cap has a locking screw, and obviously I need to undo it to get it off. YES, the screw has to be removed to open the cap.
3) Both Bleed screw and pressure cap need to be off completely. Taking off the bleed "blot" is the process of bleeding that helps air escape. No, the bleed screw needs to be loose only, air will escape around the threads as you fill the system. The key is to fill slowly to allow time for the air to escape. The rad cap has to be removed to add coolant.
4) With Cap and bolt still off, I lean the bike left and right to help air escape. If the bike is level that should be unnecessary as the system fills bottom to top. The filler neck on the radiator is the high point, and coolant will weep out of the bleed screw before you get to that level. When that occurs (bleed screw dripping), the engine is full and only the radiator is left to fill. Tighten the bleed screw to 10 Nm and then continue filling radiator.
5) I then I fill the expansion tank with coolant, when coolant comes out of bleed screw, I put the bleed screw back on, as well as the Rad Cap. No, the bleed screw should be closed and torqued at this point. The expansion tank can be filled last after the engine cooling system has been filled and vented.
6) Someone said to repeat this process until satisfied, why? Should not be necessary, however it is prudent after running the engine and cool down to verify the system is still full by checking the level in the radiator.
7) Call me stupid, but a local guy here mentioned that after I do this, I turn the bike on, and rev the bike a couple of times to "burp" it, is this true? Revving the motor will spin the water pump faster increasing pump discharge pressure against the thermostat. It's not necessary if you allow the engine to heat up the thermostat will open and flow in the system will increase without the need to spin the water pump any faster. It will not hurt anything if you want to do it, but for maximum effect wait until the cooling fan is running and then rev the motor. That will provide greater flow throughout the system moving any trapped air since the thermostat is fully open. It doesn't hurt anything to do it earlier if you want to either.