Ramair + crankcase pressure = blown cam cover gasket?!

[Claviger]

The tower seals came with the valve cover gasket I ordered, part of the same molded piece.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Because its in the swing arm it just vibrated for a about 500 meters then made a hell of a racket till I pulled up.
so I would suggest check it after every 30,000km and if they feel worn
replace them .
Triumph will sell the whole shaft for $600 but get hold of a drive shaft mob and you can get just the universal cross for $75 and change out your self .

So you have contact info for "Drive shaft Mob" ?

 

[NCJack]

The tower seals came with the valve cover gasket I ordered, part of the same molded piece.

Perfect! Thanks!

 

[Rocket HP]

Mine is the 06 classic , might be a different set up

 

[Allan S]

Just leaving it hooked to the empty air box works, but will make everything you store in there smell like oil.

If there is no air filter in the box or ducting creating the suction in the box because of the Ramair replacement I dont understand how that would be different to fitting the little filter on the vent a few inches below? Please explain if you get a moment?

 

[Rocket Scientist]

If there is no air filter in the box or ducting creating the suction in the box because of the Ramair replacement I dont understand how that would be different to fitting the little filter on the vent a few inches below? Please explain if you get a moment?

If your interested in my .5 cents worth, I don't think it would make any difference at all.

 

[Navigator]

I'm obviously coming in late on this thread and haven't read all of the posts but read the one about using RTV on the valve cover. Old vintage Triumph guys like me use Yamabond or Hondabond #4 on it on all mating surfaces. I use it on the cases, base gaskets, rocker box and all side covers. I even used it to seal leaks on my old Shovelhead and my Evo primary case cover. It works great. I learned about it from an old Triumph mechanic friend years ago.

It is a grey paste that does not spread when the mating surfaces are pressed together. Spread it on both the gasket and the mating surface, let it set up and then join the pieces. To split the surfaces, squirt on some carb cleaner and then tap it with a rubber mallet.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Mike, that's a lot of useful information. Too many of the manufacturers ignore the tried and trusted methods - thank you for the info from a budding home mechanic.

 

[Allan S]

If your interested in my .5 cents worth, I don't think it would make any difference at all.

Then I misunderstood your post "Just leaving it hooked to the empty air box works, but will make everything you store in there smell like oil."?

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Then I misunderstood your post "Just leaving it hooked to the empty air box works, but will make everything you store in there smell like oil."?

Ha ! I didn't even realize I was the one who said that. I suffer from CRS. I'll tell you about my experience. After I installed my K&N's I left the crankcase vent hooked up to the air box. I keep some tools, fuses, wire etc. in there wrapped in rags so they don't rattle. The rags smelled strongly of oil. Next, I put on the little filter. It's a little C-S'r to install. Over time, oil mist covered the back of my engine. Then dirt stuck to that and looked bad. It also made pulling the engine for repairs a filthy mess. Also the little bastard filter is supposed to be removed and cleaned periodically which is a PITA. I put a hose on mine and ran it up and fed it into one of my K&N's. It's been like that for a long time with no ill effects.