ramair cracked

For my riding like Miss Daisy Touring style My Dyno Guy says the minor tweaks ,TORS under seat K&N in OEM air box and remap is all I need for a good reliable ride,if I want to go any faster Which I don't I would buy a Busa and have an out of the box 300Kph missile, works for me :cool:
 
For my riding like Miss Daisy Touring style My Dyno Guy says the minor tweaks ,TORS under seat K&N in OEM air box and remap is all I need for a good reliable ride,if I want to go any faster Which I don't I would buy a Busa and have an out of the box 300Kph missile, works for me :cool:
But then a Busa is supposed to be fast. Our cruisers become a surprise to most that take them on and don't expect them to be fast:eek::sneaky:
 
I have, but here's the deal. Those charts you see are done at wide open throttle. They can look very smooth with perfect A/F ratios but they tell you nothing about how the bike runs at low throttle where you do most of your riding.

Interesting comments, but I'm not sure just what you mean?
How else would you do the dyno in order to get "more useful" results?
 
Interesting comments, but I'm not sure just what you mean?
How else would you do the dyno in order to get "more useful" results?
When they tune your bike, they trim the fuel and possibly ignition at each throttle position from 0 to wot over the full range of RPM. This tunes for all possible loads on the engine. If using tuneecu, they'd have to do this on the L and F tables. With a Power Commander, it takes whatever it gets from whatever table is controlling the fuel and either adds or subtracts fuel. The printout you get is just for one throttle position - 100%, which gives the max HP and torque. There was a guy from the UK who had free access to a dyno and did all kinds of messing around with his T-Bird. He posted dyno charts for a bunch of different throttle positions. At lower TP, the power is less. For racing, you want the max power at the high end. For putting around town, it also needs to be smooth at the low end.
 
When they tune your bike, they trim the fuel and possibly ignition at each throttle position from 0 to wot over the full range of RPM. This tunes for all possible loads on the engine. If using tuneecu, they'd have to do this on the L and F tables. With a Power Commander, it takes whatever it gets from whatever table is controlling the fuel and either adds or subtracts fuel. The printout you get is just for one throttle position - 100%, which gives the max HP and torque. There was a guy from the UK who had free access to a dyno and did all kinds of messing around with his T-Bird. He posted dyno charts for a bunch of different throttle positions. At lower TP, the power is less. For racing, you want the max power at the high end. For putting around town, it also needs to be smooth at the low end.

Thanks for the poop!
Makes a little more sense to me now - what you were saying.
 
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