r3 newbie with helmet "wind slapping"

I understand your point. I'm 5/11. At slower cruise speeds I can relax against the backrest. If I speed up Ill lean forward. The R3 allows for many different riding positions so I move around.
 
Changing your position to find a sweet spot I doubt was meant as a permanent thing. But will allow you to see if maybe different bars etc would resolve it.

ime - helmet shape plays VERY little matter behind a big screen. I have ridden my R3 with at least 5 different lids (open, flip front and full-face).
Far more critical are external factors like sidewind - head position relative to screen - (oddly) fabric vs leather Jacket. And passenger or not.

A shaped lid would aid behind a LOW screen where the laminar air flow hits the visor head on. This is common practice on sports bikes.

But, if you can ride "visor up" with no "airdry" tears - lid shape won't make a blind bit of difference.
 
Instead of full face, I have an HJC IS Max modular, easier to don and remove. Riding shield up is doable and actually a must on hot days. What turbulence there is is more noticeable shield up but does not diminish shield down. I do have the R3T lowers which are so tiny as to be decorations but they do work. But all and all a windshield is a barn door....and it's never going to be perfect.
 
mully95, changing your body's riding position (typically stretching further back or crouching down low) will pay it's toll on your body, and that will make riding not enjoyable and might end up with a trip to the physical therapist.

I didn't mean to stay in that position.

I should have explained it a better way.

After finding out where the turbulence starts and stops that will give a better idea if the windshield needs to be adjusted up or down. Forwards or backwards.



Down will let more air by and complete flow around the helmet keeping it stabilized. Up will block the air more and throw it up over the helmet.

Hard to explain... just plain ol common sense ... anyways that's how I accomplished a turbulence free ride while still maintaining a comfortable riding position.
 
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rocketjohn, what are r3T lowers?

tomorrow i'm going to take the plexiglass off the fairing and see what that does? maybe with it off a different shapped helmet will make a difference?

and what di you guys say about a lighter helmet? a good thing or not, particularly for wind slapping?
 
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rocketjohn, what are r3T lowers?

tomorrow i'm going to take the plexiglass off the fairing and see what that does? maybe with it off a different shapped helmet will make a difference?

and what di you guys say about a lighter helmet? a good thing or not, particularly for wind slapping?

Lowers are plexiglass attachments that go on the left and right of the bike around the front turn signals. They actually have holes cut into them for the turn signals. They deflect wind from leg and lower chest area. Triumph used to sell these but I believe they have been discontinued.

Does triumph makes lower fairings?


Using a heavy or light helmet wouldn't seem to make a difference I wouldn't think. Personally I use a Bell Racestar helmet which is very light and love it. Cuts down on fatigue a great deal.

Friend of mine rode his R3 for years with the Corbin fairing and he wore a helmet until he traded in the bike. Don't think he ever commented on wind turbulence.
 
Hey Todd,

It’s not the helmet. A better screen will help. I run a ½ helmet in the summer and a ¾ or full the rest of the year depending on weather conditions. Last weekend I did 800 miles in about 30 hours. Very comfortable miles except in traffic.

In my opinion Clearview makes the best screen. I like mine right at my chin when I’m sitting straight up. If you are riding at highway speeds in traffic there’s no way to escape the turbulence aka buffeting.

Jay

½ helmet = Bell

¾ = Schuberth M1 Helmet

Full = Shoe X11 (lowest wind noise)
 
atjurhs, I have the same Corbin fairing and ended up making my own taller windscreen by 2 inches just to get that burble over my head ( I'm 5'9" ). I wear a Schuberth C3Pro helmet and use the SENA 20s and ear plugs. I also added Dynamat to the inside of the ear cups to reduce noise a little further.

I bought the Schuberth based on their claims for the lightest weight modular and the quietest. Can't say I agree with the quietest?:unsure:

I think barbagris is absolutely right. There is no perfect solution and whatever you end up with will have a compromise of some sort at a particular speed or body position.

Most importantly though, I had the same idea about getting it all nice and quiet so I could maybe listen to tunes at some point out on the open highway. Forget it!;) The issue is that you will need to have the music blaring at cruise speeds in order to hear it and you won't realize it until you come to a stop. This is seriously dangerous to your hearing.
 
An Aerodynamic lid is of no use in an area of turbulence. There is no air flow to be dynamic in. And well fitting whilst it will reduce the noise associated also means your head moves more. Even so a well fitting helmet SHOULD be the choice. You are basically driving with a barn door at near vertical face on and it will generate turbulence. End of Story.

Also note that FULL FACE helmets seem to waggle more - but in reality it is because your head is inside a sound chamber that allows you to notice the associated noise. Open lids (or no lid) you wont hear it but it still happens. A light helmet allows your neck muscles to control the waggle with more ease. The weight thing really matters far more than you'd think.

I have tried Triumph lowers, raising the screen, venting the screen, changing teh screen angle, a screen aerofoil (LaminarLip), my current fork mounted lowers, engine bar mounted lowers and pretty much every combination. Tried mounting at an angle or square on - all sorts. They will all affect the effects of turbulence to some extent BUT not always at the speed you want to ride. Also affected to where YOU sit related to the screen. So riding position.

My current combo is fine to 130-140kph depending on whether there is a crosswind of any reasonable magnitude or not. Then gets a bit rough and then smooths out again above 170kph. This I like as it a sort of passive speed alert system on longer runs.

For an INDICATION of head shapes and Helmet shapes - webbikeworld is a brilliant reference.
Ah now that I have read your post I can see why nothing worked.
bobble head.jpg
 
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