melted 30 amp fuse

the only thing i have hooked to battery now is headlight relays and fuse panel, now i do have the low beam cut off switch. I crank up the bike with headlights off everything is good , reach over turn the headlights on the wires start getting hot again turn off headlights they cool off, has anyone had this problem?
 
That's the amount of power those two headlights pull, amazing they ran that through the ignition switch ain't it?
That's exactly why the solder softens on the contacts and the wires fall off the ignition switch. Having that low beam cut off switch will aid in starting the bike when it gets cold, you will be glad you have that.
My wires warm to the touch but don't get HOT, if you are still melting stuff you have a short somewhere, but I can't imagine the lights work with a short.
 

couple quick clarifications....

your using the EB headlight relay kit?

if so, hooked to the battery directly?

your using the EB pc-8 fusebox?

if so, hooked to the battery directly?
 
bagman said:
couple quick clarifications....

your using the EB headlight relay kit?

if so, hooked to the battery directly?

your using the EB pc-8 fusebox?

if so, hooked to the battery directly?
Click to expand...
yes to your question headlight realays to battery directly, pc8 fusebox direct to battery. and allso just sitting in the garage idleing so that might have something to do with it ,gonna put it all back together and see what happens after taken it out on the road
 

ok, if you running that setup, the headlights shouldn't have any effect on the oem fusebox. with the exception of what you are using as your key on power source.

my suggest key on power source would be the red w/ blue wire for the accessory lights.
 
what should my switches be rated for ,, ignition toggle switch, headlight low beam cutoff switch,and my driving light switch,
 
the power source for my ignition toggle is comming off an unswitched teminal on the pc-8 fuse block , the driving lights have been disconnected till i get things sorted out
 
rmdrake said:
what should my switches be rated for ,, ignition toggle switch, headlight low beam cutoff switch,and my driving light switch,
Click to expand...
As long as they are just used as energizers for the relays handling the load, they don't need to be rated for anything. The wire in the relays is as fine as a hair, that's all they have to switch on and off.
 
HellFire said:
As long as they are just used as energizers for the relays handling the load, they don't need to be rated for anything. The wire in the relays is as fine as a hair, that's all they have to switch on and off.
Click to expand...
so if i run my ignition toggle and my running lights toggle both off my pc8 fuse panel then i dont need a heavy duty switch correct ?
 
As long as what you are turning on and off is just a relay. The relay can be running whatever, the switch is just operating the electromagnet that makes the higher amperage contact possible.
The PC8 block is unfamiliar to me, I don't really see the point of one. All of my accessories are powered off the battery through individual relays and fuses, this way nothing is overloaded and any short or failure is limited to the offending circuit.

I'm assuming that the PC8 block is a switched power distribution box, it can be overloaded like anything else if too much is put through it. Each electrical accessory that takes a lot of power should have it's own relay anyway, the switch operating that relay takes very little power and does not need to be rated for anything above normal.
 
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