Main fuse blown

My 2010 Roadster started right up and ran great while I closed the garage. Ran fine until I pulled out onto the road, then it started misfiring and wouldn't take throttle. Engine light came on, turn signals either wouldn't work at all or they flashed really quickly.
Got it home and turned it off. When I turned the key back on everything was dead, no lights, no fuel pump prime or anything.
The main 30amp fuse was melted, not cleanly blown.
TuneEcu cause code (I think) said EMS main relay circuit. Really should have written it down before clearing codes.

Replaced the fuse, swapped fan relay for EMS relay, cleared codes, starts and runs fine, everything works, engine light didn't come back on, but it still seems to be putting a lot of heat through the main fuse.
No heat, or evidence of heat in the EMS relay itself and it checks out with an ohm meter the same as the cooling fan relay.
Turning the handlebars lock to lock had no effect. Eastern Beaver headlight relay system installed years ago.

Any advice from the collective other than to start checking over all the wiring?

TIA

Something caused that fuse to melt in the first place. My guess is problem still exists, something shorting somewhere - but I'm not an electrical guru by any means, so please wait for others more experienced!

Agreed. I'll likely start chasing it down this afternoon. I'm hoping when I turn the bike back on today there's like a small fire or something where the problem is, so I don't have to spend my golden years trying to find it.
Weird thing is, the melted fuse still shows continuity.

It's the intermediate tyres that did it. Serves ya right.................

Ha! Well, if my pit crew is so ****ed smart, why isn't it fixed yet, huh, huh, huh?

I've been plugging away at this as time allows, but have only managed to confuse myself.
The brown wire goes from the positive post on the battery to the main fuse and shows 60K ohms resistance to ground. Pull the main fuse and it's all good. Put the main fuse back in and pull every relay, unplug the regulator and alternator, unplug the ECM, unplug the ignition switch, still shows 60K to ground. The only way the 60K to ground goes away is by pulling fuse #3, which on the Roadie is a 10 amp to the gauges. If that's where the problem lies, wouldn't it blow the 10 amp before melting the 30 amp main?
Fuse block looks good.
Charges at 14.7 volts.
Battery (which is removed from the bike completely for the testing) is relatively new.
Pushed, pulled, prodded every wire I can find, checked that all connections are good. No bare wires found.
Have yet to disconnect the gauges.
Hell if I know.

Ok, I think I'm confident I've found the answer to the melted fuse problem.
After tearing apart half the bike and testing circuits I couldn't find anything wrong at all, so I started putting it back together. When I had the battery back in I discovered that even though the bolt to the negative post was tight, the wires could still move. I had gone to a longer bolt a while back because of having 4 wires on there. What was happening was the bolt was bottoming against the battery case instead of tightening to the post. My theory is this made for more resistance and more heat which eventually melted the fuse. Remember it melted, it didn't blow.
I've put a few hundred miles on it since remedying the situation and it all seems good.
My ability to create problems for myself never ceases to amaze.

Good catch! Hope you've got it sorted. I'll try to tuck that tidbit into my brain to learn from your experience. [emoji106]