Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS

[Blackthou]

Superb. Well done.

 

[skydog1000]

Yes well done !!! How much

 

[DEcosse]

Please send PM for inquiries on pricing

 

[1olbull]

Please send PM for inquiries on pricing

Just about complete with my install.
Brother, Dan, doing all the work.
Can't wait to try it out.
I'll have it at RAA X to show off for any that are interested.

 

[mpbpub]

Hi
i've been following this topic for some time now and I have gone from being totally useless when it comes to bike electrics to quietly confident - thanks to Decosse and all the others kind enough to share their knowledge.
I like the idea of the PDM60 as it looks easy to use and set up,just about my limit.
Is there any chance a wiring diagram can be posted using the PDM60 just so I can sort thing out in my head before I attempt this mod.
Cheers.

 

[DEcosse]

... Is there any chance a wiring diagram can be posted using the PDM60 just so I can sort thing out in my head before I attempt this mod.....

Diagram is in post 111 - think of it like a 'super' relay - each output channel is like is derived from an individual relay and each feeds one of the three poles that the key-switch would normally power.
There are 6 channels available so that leaves three more to power accessories (heated gear, aux lamps, air horn etc)

 

[1olbull]

Just about complete with my install.
Brother, Dan, doing all the work.
Can't wait to try it out.
I'll have it at RAA X to show off for any that are interested.

Instal complete! Went smooth as silk! Works like a charm!
Biggest thing I would say regarding this kit is the SUPERB assistance, hand holding and patience given by Ken DEcosse!
Three thumbs WAAAAAAY UP!!!

 

[mpbpub]

Diagram is in post 111 - think of it like a 'super' relay - each output channel is like is derived from an individual relay and each feeds one of the three poles that the key-switch would normally power.
There are 6 channels available so that leaves three more to power accessories (heated gear, aux lamps, air horn etc)

Thanks for that DeCosse, I don't know how I missed that post. I feel quite confident that I can attempt this mod now. Keep up the good work you're a great help. Thanks

 

[DEcosse]

I came up with another new feature today:

In the current version, I utilize the OEM alarm LED in the instrument panel as a 'disarmed' or 'Ready' signal.
It's kinda inverse logic really, since the LED means it's disarmed, rather than armed as the OEM alarm would signify (but flashing)

The LED actually remains on, even once the ignition has been turned on
i.e. as long as the system is disarmed, it is on, regardless of whether ignition itself is on or not.

I had a question from one recent adopter for clarification as whether it was supposed to in fact remain on, if that was 'normal' operation for my system.
It wasn't so much a complaint, just clarification on its status - but it got me thinking "maybe I should look at turning that off once the ignition has been energized?"
i.e. have it notify that the system is indeed 'ready' (successfully disarmed) but is no longer really required once ignition is 'set'
- somewhat paralleling the operation of the remote - it flashes green when system is disarmed, but turns off (to save battery) once the ignition has been set 'on'

So I came up with a transistor switch - compact enough it will fit inside the module.
It is currently on a small 'piggy-back' board - eventually it will get integrated into the control board when I eventually do new artwork.

Now the LED comes on as previously, whenever the Remote is in the detector range;
but when the ignition is turned on, the 'Ready' LED goes off (and turns on again when system 'Killed' until the remote moves out of range and 'arms')

For those who already have the current revision, I can do a rework of these on pretty quick turn-around if this is something that you feel would be beneficial
Most I think just get used to it & it's not a major distraction; however there is now a way I can disable it as described.
For others, you might find it not necessary at all - after all, if need be for diagnostics, you can also just look to the remote which will also indicate its 'ready/dis-armed' state (flashing green).
In which case the wire can be cut, or the terminal pulled out of the socket (so is reversible)

It is also possible to emulate the same behaviour as the new design, by using an external normally-closed relay
I can provide detail of how that can be accomplished by anyone locally, without need to return the module to me for the integrated version.
(also perhaps more practical for those overseas)

 

[DEcosse]

I came up with another new feature today:

Now the LED comes on as previously, whenever the Remote is in the detector range;
but when the ignition is turned on, the 'Ready' LED goes off (and turns on again when system 'Killed' until the remote moves out of range and 'arms')

The new artwork has been completed and pleased to say all works as planned

Old Controller:

New controller:

If you look carefully at the new board, if you find the LED output terminal, it now comes via a transistor rather than directly off the 'ready' (disarmed) reference
The transistor is gated by the final output condition, which turns the transistor 'off' when the ignition is on.

I incorporated a few other subtle changes when I was doing the new lay-out anyway.

This is the block diagram of how the circuit works, with the addition of the LED control switch:

For the main output control, the output at Point 'C' is normally 'Off'; when turned 'on' & 'C' goes high, that turns on the power switch(es), whether that be Power Relays or PDM60.
The first gate is that Point 'A' gives a 'Ready' output when the system is 'disarmed' by the output from the base 2012T controller; this output 'A' feeds power to the Relay Driver Input.
Without this 'ready' condition, regardless of other input stimulus, the output cannot turn on.
Now with the point 'A' condition active, we need to turn on the Relay Drive Transistor;
That stimulus comes from a momentary input from the clutch switch, which turns on the Clutch Switch Driver and gives high output at Point 'B'
Point 'B' turns on the main relay driver transistor.
When the Kill/Run switch is set to 'Run', that not only completes the ignition circuit for the bike, it also feeds back into the Key-Less Controller;
this feedback maintains point 'B' as high, even when the clutch switch driver turns off (which it will when you release the lever);
So the system becomes latched, until the Kill/Run is opened, breaking the feedback loop, and the latch is broken.
There is a built-in time delay on the feedback loop so that for any spurious 'bounce' condition, it does not shut off the circuit for any minor excursion.
Turning the Kill/Run back to Run will not immediately turn on the Relay Drive, it must again be initiated by the Clutch Switch.

In summary, once system has been disarmed (ready) the ignition is simply turned on by pull of the clutch lever, or turned off by the Kill/Run Switch
Note that even though other system currents are not going directly through the Kill/Run switch, this output signal gates the power control for ALL the switched circuits.

For the new LED driver, the 'Ready' (disarmed) output goes via a transistor switch to the OEM Alarm Indicator LED;
when the Output drive (point 'C') is off, the transistor is on, and so the LED is on.
When point 'C' goes high however (turning on the Ignition circuit via PDM60 or Relay) that also turns the LED drive transistor Off.
So the LED condition is:
Armed - OFF
Disarmed + Ignition Off - ON
Disarmed + Ignition On - OFF

(Note that in the Ignition On state, it's not that it is no longer disarmed, simply that the status LED has been 'blanked')

The bottom part of the circuit is the Turn Signal Drivers - these flow current to the OEM turn signals on generated pulse signals from the base 2102T controller.
These generate a single flash when the system is arming, or a double flash when it is disarming.
These are visible of course as you move towards or away from the bike with the remote in your pocket.

Here's video that demonstrates the Indicator Lamp behaviour as it disarms, then ignition is turned on
(compare to the video in post 108, on page 11, where you will see the status LED remains on even after Ignition comes on)
A reminder that the video is predominantly looking at the Test fixture - it's the Controller that is actually 'doing the work'
And also (although spelled out in the video commentary) the 'green' status LED on the box is in actuality the Red OEM Alarm Indicator on the Instrument Panel; and there is no 'Ignition On' LED on the actual system, doesn't need one of course because your Instrument Panel indicates that you are powered on.