Hi, Removed dead battery and thought I had four connectors on each terminal of my 2006 Triumph rocket 3. Now I see 5 - 6 Help with wiring pls!!

[Rnabar]

Just want to be sure I don't plug into the wrong terminals..

 

[Wdugan9080]

Just want to be sure I don't plug into the wrong terminals..

Need some photos one of the thickest 2 should be red and go right down to the starter that would be the + .
The second thickest should go to the engine block, that's the - negative.

And most of the smaller wires should go to accessories and probably one goes to the main fuse block, they would be on the positive side +. I think there maybe a small wire on the negative side, if in question just put an ohmmeter on the block a good ground and make sure it reads 0 zero ohms to the - negative wire for the battery disconnected, do not connect anything to the battery till your sure it's right. And connect the negative last, you don't want to have the negative on and put the positive side on you'll probably fry some sensors and you could accidentally hit a ground with the wrench and we will call you sparky.
But all seriousness, with the ohm meter check all the smaller wires your not sure of, if you have 0 zero ohms resistance it is most likely a ground and goes on the - negative side, and if you have some resistance like more than 1 ohm, it's most probably something in a circuit that needs to be powered so yes that would go on the positive + side. Only use the ohmmeter if you can't trace it.
Look in idk s signature page, he's a good member here, has helped me a lot, and you will find a lot of info. A manual's and wiring diagrams. I understand decosse another member here is an electrical wiz. So maybe you'll get lucky and sum up the God's. I just had basic electricity in HS but I think the ohmmeter thing is right
Don't worry, you'll find out once you hook up to the battery sparky, well I hope not, and everything should have a fuse on the positive side
But yeah photos of exactly how many wires you have hanging unconnected would be very helpful, and while everything is off you might want to take a wire brush to it and knock off the fuzz, crud, whatever you want to call it, usually corrosion and add a lot of dielectric grease before putting it back together, it will help tremendously in getting more consecutive starts GL
I think I only have a total of 3 and one is for an added fuse block from the previous owner, he added a horn and had some kind of problem hooking up the LED headlight, I'm afraid of the day I have problems with it, I try to stay away from it . If it ain't broke, don't fix it
When you figure it all out you may want to tie the wires together with a wire tie, those things are great, didn't have those in HS. What will they think of next??? All kidding aside, sorry I couldn't help myself, GL
Here's the diagram from my manual for 2008-2016, but it shouldn't be much different, I would think if you have that many wires to the battery there's some custom add-ons that won't be on any diagram. Hope this helps, and did I mention I'm not a mechanic by trade, but by necessity, can't afford a real one. It cost me $900 to the shop that put my tires on so don't be sparky, be careful, these parts aren't cheap and take time to get from the UK.

 

[TURBO200R4]

A lot of good advice said
To be on the safe side when u touch the terminal add a 10 amp fuse so if u r wrong it will blow the fuse instead of frying the wire

 

[Wdugan9080]

A lot of good advice said
To be on the safe side when u touch the terminal add a 10 amp fuse so if u r wrong it will blow the fuse instead of frying the wire

Good thinking turbo, saved him from being called sparky, and who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks and I accidentally forgot to add you as a good member, very helpful.

You can get a fuse holder at the auto parts store,

And if you have no idea what we are talking about, take it to a mechanic, trust me, it will be cheaper
Somewhere in there I think I messed up on how an ohmmeter work's, if you don't know what an ohmmeter is and how it works I would definitely find out first on YouTube or something, maybe phone a friend who knows electricity, if it has a switch in it and you don't get any reading on the ohmmeter OL overload, like without touching the leads together, it probably goes on the positive, I've never seen a negative terminal fused or switched, but just in case add a fuse for testing purposes, fuse's are a lot cheaper than new parts. GL
If it's the same as the 08 you should only have the 2 Big terminals stock if you look at the diagram and the others should be add-ons, usually on the positive side and everything else is grounded to the frame or chassis, but you never know someone might have stuck a ground in there, which could be anything, just put the one lead on the wire in question and the positive, I would imagine not sure but if you get more than 1 ohm resistance it's a negative, weird, someone couldn't find a good ground, but I've seen stranger things, remember the fuse .
Do you remember any wires going to the negative terminal, cause that's odd, I've heard of guys putting in a second ground to the block /case's cause it was hard to start and they weren't getting a good ground, or was that the positive side to the starter, but it should be like a 3rd heavy Guage wire like 10 gauge like the original terminals, I'm confused, just fuse's is a good idea 1 for each wire, you should be able to make out the 10 gauge one's so you'll need like 3 or 4 fuse holders and fuse's

 

[Wdugan9080]

Just want to be sure I don't plug into the wrong terminals..

And OL on the ohmmeter doesn't mean you have a circuit with a lot of resistance, it will read the same OL if you don't touch the leads, it's infinite resistance, probably switched or something so better to trace the wires, I bet you won't make that mistake again, at least take a picture before you take it apart.

 

[Gregger]

A lot of good advice said
To be on the safe side when u touch the terminal add a 10 amp fuse so if u r wrong it will blow the fuse instead of frying the wire

I've used a self resetting automotive circuit breaker rigged up to test potential shorted circuits. Rather than blowing a fuse or frying a wire, it would trip the breaker confirming the problem.

 

[Rnabar]

Need some photos one of the thickest 2 should be red and go right down to the starter that would be the + .
The second thickest should go to the engine block, that's the - negative.

And most of the smaller wires should go to accessories and probably one goes to the main fuse block, they would be on the positive side +. I think there maybe a small wire on the negative side, if in question just put an ohmmeter on the block a good ground and make sure it reads 0 zero ohms to the - negative wire for the battery disconnected, do not connect anything to the battery till your sure it's right. And connect the negative last, you don't want to have the negative on and put the positive side on you'll probably fry some sensors and you could accidentally hit a ground with the wrench and we will call you sparky.
But all seriousness, with the ohm meter check all the smaller wires your not sure of, if you have 0 zero ohms resistance it is most likely a ground and goes on the - negative side, and if you have some resistance like more than 1 ohm, it's most probably something in a circuit that needs to be powered so yes that would go on the positive + side. Only use the ohmmeter if you can't trace it.
Look in idk s signature page, he's a good member here, has helped me a lot, and you will find a lot of info. A manual's and wiring diagrams. I understand decosse another member here is an electrical wiz. So maybe you'll get lucky and sum up the God's. I just had basic electricity in HS but I think the ohmmeter thing is right
Don't worry, you'll find out once you hook up to the battery sparky, well I hope not, and everything should have a fuse on the positive side
But yeah photos of exactly how many wires you have hanging unconnected would be very helpful, and while everything is off you might want to take a wire brush to it and knock off the fuzz, crud, whatever you want to call it, usually corrosion and add a lot of dielectric grease before putting it back together, it will help tremendously in getting more consecutive starts GL
I think I only have a total of 3 and one is for an added fuse block from the previous owner, he added a horn and had some kind of problem hooking up the LED headlight, I'm afraid of the day I have problems with it, I try to stay away from it . If it ain't broke, don't fix it
When you figure it all out you may want to tie the wires together with a wire tie, those things are great, didn't have those in HS. What will they think of next??? All kidding aside, sorry I couldn't help myself, GL
Here's the diagram from my manual for 2008-2016, but it shouldn't be much different, I would think if you have that many wires to the battery there's some custom add-ons that won't be on any diagram. Hope this helps, and did I mention I'm not a mechanic by trade, but by necessity, can't afford a real one. It cost me $900 to the shop that put my tires on so don't be sparky, be careful, these parts aren't cheap and take time to get from the UK.

Thanks Wdugan9080, many thanks for your response. I was happy to wake up to this feedback and those that follow. I did look at this wildly confusing wiring diagram for a while. Heres a picture of the setup. From one of the notes below, its very possible that one of the leads was just hanging loose in the battery box as a ground- I could have sworn there were 4 each on the terminals. I would take it to a mechanic... problem is I can't move the beast lol. Cheers to the gang here.... appreciate you.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Thanks Wdugan9080, many thanks for your response. I was happy to wake up to this feedback and those that follow. I did look at this wildly confusing wiring diagram for a while. Heres a picture of the setup. From one of the notes below, its very possible that one of the leads was just hanging loose in the battery box as a ground- I could have sworn there were 4 each on the terminals. I would take it to a mechanic... problem is I can't move the beast lol. Cheers to the gang here.... appreciate you.

Okay that makes it a lot easier, all the one's with the fuses in the line go to the positive with the thick wire that is Red and the + plus sign.
The thick black wire next to the negative battery connector goes on the negative battery terminal and I would put an inline fuse on the small black wire next to it, looks like it's touching the negative terminal and hook it to the negative.
The last one black wire not too sure of, it doesn't look like it's long enough to reach the negative terminal, but black is normally negative so I'd try that first with a fuse of course. And you didn't say if you have a meter??? What kind of custom add-ons accessories do you have, led lights, horn, anything else not stock OEM?? I would show you a pic of mine but I don't feel like getting into it right today, my only day off this week, but you can clean All those wires up by adding a I would say a 6 gang fuse block should be enough and have extras for future add-ons. Like this one, a little fancy but hey you only live once. Good luck, don't forget to clean all the connections including the battery and adding dielectric grease, lots of it, they do make a spray stuff for battery terminals, ask at the auto parts store, not as messy as grease. So it looks like 5 positive terminals counting main. And 3 negative. All marked with plus and minus signs, all the negative terminals add a fuse and the one positive without a fuse add one and leave it in GL I think the mechanic that did the add-ons was a rat Oh don't forget negative terminals connected last, positive first. Opposite when taking off negative first, positive last just trust me on that one
In the wiring diagram all you are interested in is #44 the battery, it shows one terminal to ground and negative.
And 2 terminals to positive one is the main to the starter and the other one goes to the online fuse to the rectifier/regulator and#2 fuse in the block, to the ignition, that's stock OEM, and I would and already have a fuse block added with one positive power wire from battery to add-on block and all the add-ons connected to the block and fused.
I have a bolt in the fender I think that is the ground for the addon ground wires, so I have a total of 3 terminals to the battery, 2 positive and one negative like stock OEM.
And whenever you buy connectors get the heat shrink and seal one's, they keep the water out, not good, water And any connections like dielectric grease, keeps water away, water bad just be sparingly on fuel injectors, too much grease can throw off low voltage signal to ECU, bad.
Oh and I don't add grease to the ECU connection inside, but I do put it on the outside wire's going into the connector.
And before you go to disconnect anything pull the negative terminal off the battery first, don't ask me how I know this, they probably tought it in basic electricity and I probably wasn't listening

 

[TURBO200R4]

I've used a self resetting automotive circuit breaker rigged up to test potential shorted circuits. Rather than blowing a fuse or frying a wire, it would trip the breaker confirming the problem.

I also used the circuit breaker to diagnose a shorted ignition wire that was sparking on the intake manifold with the fuse it would just blow

 

[TURBO200R4]

I would bolt on the 5 terminals that have the pluses then put the fuse with one blade to the neg post and then take each of the other wires to the other blade
Start with the main ground big black wire if that blows the fuse then u have a problem with the positive side.
If ok i would combine the big and the one next and start the bolt then i would use the fuse to bolt and final wire to ground to to the other blade of the fuse.
Now take a break go inside and check your fire insurance then go and turn on ignition key more than likely u will b ok. Lol
Hth