HELP!!! Backfire, pop, cut out HELP NEEDED!

yeah true u did
He was rite when he said its not necessery but i agree with u that it is definitely a benificial thing to have so i will definitely be getting one at some stage.:cool:
 
same problem but fixed it

I have just had the same problem as above - mine was backfiring on throttling down/ coughing a bit down low/ then just today revs were up around 2K with throttle off - was told by my local dealer it sounds serious better book it in ($$$$$) - after reading this thread I lifted the tank and found that the Vacuum junction directly under the tank had the main vaccuum hose was half on - it is meant to fit into the retrainer clip but when doing this it actually pulled the hose off the junction - I gently applied some silicone around the upper edge of to this junction and pushed the hose back on - let it set - didn`t bother putting it back in the retainer - fixed the problem - runs great again now.
 
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I have just had the same problem as above - mine was backfiring on throttling down/ coughing a bit down low/ then just today revs were up around 2K with throttle off - was told by my local dealer it sounds serious better book it in ($$$$$) - after reading this thread I lifted the tank and found that the Vacuum junction directly under the tank had the main vaccuum hose was half on - it is meant to fit into the retrainer clip but when doing this it actually pulled the hose off the junction - I gently applied some silicone around the upper edge of to this junction and pushed the hose back on - let it set - didn`t bother putting it back in the retainer - fixed the problem - runs great again now.

Welcome to the forum, from Ohio. Sounds like you stumbled onto a bit of fortunate troubleshooting. Dealers= stealers. Most dealers dislike forums and most forum members do not trust dealers. Enjoy your rocket.
 
I have just had the same problem as above - mine was backfiring on throttling down/ coughing a bit down low/ then just today revs were up around 2K with throttle off - was told by my local dealer it sounds serious better book it in ($$$$$) - after reading this thread I lifted the tank and found that the Vacuum junction directly under the tank had the main vaccuum hose was half on - it is meant to fit into the retrainer clip but when doing this it actually pulled the hose off the junction - I gently applied some silicone around the upper edge of to this junction and pushed the hose back on - let it set - didn`t bother putting it back in the retainer - fixed the problem - runs great again now.

Pretty helpful first post, mate. Always worth checking the simple things. Welcome aboard.
 
Pretty helpful first post, mate. Always worth checking the simple things. Welcome aboard.
Welcome from the South Coastal region New South Wales, Australia. So where are You from :D Glad our Rambling have helped you Save the $$$$$ and thanks for sharing the info, that's what we like to do here:D that and have a bit of Fun
 
update to over rev and crackling prob

Good job Dennsell /thanks mate / great tip - my 2005 is just like yours - I had a red 2004 to start with but moved to the grey 2005 a year later - only other issue I`ve had with this one to date is the seal at front/rear of the driveshaft were leaking one month out of warranty( throwing oil inside the rear wheel rim - not a good look ! )and after some serious wrangling had Triumph Aust come to the party and replace the whole diff assembly for free - I have noticed that I`m still having a little problem with the crackling on backoff and feels like its loading up a bit on the odd take off - am going to have the guys at MotoArena (Gold coast- good blokes hey ! they have looked after me very well in the past) put an update tune through it tomorrow will let you know how it turns out. cheers - this forum is bloody awesome !!!
 
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not sure if this helps but - had my rocket dying (ignition lights out and all ) it started to happen very occasionally to start with them getting more frequently - then had no ignition lights at all one morning but I did notice when I turned bars hard right it would light up again - turned out to be wires coming off the ignition switch - factory soldering is pretty suss under the switch and did notice that the loom was stretching when the bars where on hard left lock -I`d say after numerous turns of the bars the connections just give up - I re routed the loom so it doesn`t stretch anymore and actually managed to solder them back on the terminals with the switch still in place - had to remove headlight to get it properly though - cheers
 
not sure if this helps but - had my rocket dying (ignition lights out and all ) it started to happen very occasionally to start with them getting more frequently - then had no ignition lights at all one morning but I did notice when I turned bars hard right it would light up again - turned out to be wires coming off the ignition switch - factory soldering is pretty suss under the switch and did notice that the loom was stretching when the bars where on hard left lock -I`d say after numerous turns of the bars the connections just give up - I re routed the loom so it doesn`t stretch anymore and actually managed to solder them back on the terminals with the switch still in place - had to remove headlight to get it properly though - cheers

Have you done the headlight relay trick yet?
Triumph in thier wisdom decided to run the full power for headlights thru ign switch which causes it to over heat and wires fall of yo will find there a couple of threads on the subject there are two ways to fixing it 1 buy the Eastern Beaver kit or make your own using two relay or one the two relay method takes the power from headlight for switching only (very low load) and uses one relay for high and another for low beam, there is no other switches being put under high load and therefore gives max brightness to lights the I relay method still runs full power thru dip switch which will cause extra resistance and possibly switch burnout eventually. This is why the eastern beaver kit is also a two relay setup yet the tight wads at triumph have only now released an upgrade kit for lastyears roadster using a single relay, it is my opinion that I would rather pay for an extra relay and have the best power supply to lights
 
Have you done the headlight relay trick yet?
Triumph in thier wisdom decided to run the full power for headlights thru ign switch which causes it to over heat and wires fall of yo will find there a couple of threads on the subject there are two ways to fixing it 1 buy the Eastern Beaver kit or make your own using two relay or one the two relay method takes the power from headlight for switching only (very low load) and uses one relay for high and another for low beam, there is no other switches being put under high load and therefore gives max brightness to lights the I relay method still runs full power thru dip switch which will cause extra resistance and possibly switch burnout eventually. This is why the eastern beaver kit is also a two relay setup yet the tight wads at triumph have only now released an upgrade kit for lastyears roadster using a single relay, it is my opinion that I would rather pay for an extra relay and have the best power supply to lights

That reminds me i better do this mod before it happens to mine. Im still running the standard factory setup :cool:
 
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