Yes, the risers are rubber mounted and the sensation you're referring to is exacerbated by using the Rivco risers. They're taller so it just makes sense. Mine had a good inch of play in them if I were pushing/pulling the bike in around the garage. I hated the **** things.
 
The rubber bushings are there to absorb some of the vibration and will wear some as you ride more.I replaced mine at 20000 as bars seemed to lift too much..after 5000 more they are weakening some more...If replaced with more solid washers,I believe the vibration will wear down the tension bars inside the spindle and will create more issues.The tension bars are there to absorb some vibration also...I have learned to live with it and will probably see if I can find a little bit thicker washer next time.But I would never eliminate the washer as That vibration needs to be compensated somewhere.My 2 cents!!!If you compare a worn washer and the new washer,then you will see the small amount of wear affecting the diameter of the used washer>
 
I believe the vibration will wear down the tension bars inside the spindle and will create more issues.>
I don't have a Touring model so I'm trying to picture what you are talking about here. I was looking in the service manual and don't see what you are referring to.
The Standard and Classic are very simple, the risers bolt to the top plate and the bars drop into the recess with a cap on top. Where is the rubber located? under the risers, between the bar and riser, up under the top plate?
 
The rubber bushings are in the holes that the riser posts go through. Then, the nuts attach from the bottom just as any other bike. One thing you have to be careful about is not to over torque them. They're only supposed to be torqued to around 40 ft. lbs. The bars are only supposed to be torqued to around 18; pretty light, IMO.
 
Oh, that clears things up ... so the "holes" through the top plate are actually larger than the standard and classic to accommodate them. ****, that makes removing them a machining issue. A steel replacement would have to be machined to take up the space ... well I suppose it's another potential market vacuum for Flip to fill. ;)
If there is as much movement in the bars as you Touring owners say, I see a niche that needs marketing. That little extra vibration in the bars from not having rubber isolation bushings would be worth not having the bars flex up and down. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything mechanical, and if the vibration is bothersome there are counter weight bar ends available to minimize the vibes. The Throttlemeister throttle locks are available in small, medium and large for just that purpose. Even without them it couldn't be any worse than Harley bars shaking the bones in your hands loose. :eek:
 
I have kuryakyn grips on my R3T and thats when I noticed considerable more vibration and the "lifting" on the bars.I have ordered the end weights for the grips and hopefully that will have an ending result for the vibration..and if successful,then I will replace the rubber washers at that point.Perhaps a larger washer will solidify the "wiggle room"..definetly will be careful not to over tighten the dampening rods!
 
for what its worth has any body tried maybe using urethane nylon bush material like they use in suspencion bushes these day and we used to use in our mountain bike Girfin Flex Stems before Rockshocks came on the scene you might be able to find a close fit or modifie one , see your local suspenceion specilest:)
 
Put the end weights on those kuryakyn grips and most vibration gone!!!That was a "good news" revelation.Now I will look for some nylon type washers at the local nuts/screws store for replacement of rubber washer..ideally perhaps using both rubber and a nylon washers if I can find them slim enough!
 
So are they just "comfort" items? Can they just be removed and go without like the Standard and Classic?
I haven't ridden a Touring since the demo at the dealer in '08 but I do remember that the Touring felt a little smoother overall than mine. At the time I figured it was the extra weight and the narrow tire but it makes sense that they would add some rubber isolators to a bike meant for comfort.
I wouldn't think the rubber is all that important if it can be taken out and tightened down, might lead to more handlebar vibration though. My stock mouse ear mirrors were worthless over 3000rpm from the engine vibration, the sturdier billet stems on it now helped alot. They don't buzz nearly as bad as the stockers did.

I just had my r3t in the shop a couple months ago for some trany problems (broken clutch spring) and when the service manager and I rolled the bike off the trailer he noticed excessive play in the bars. I hadn't noticed it because it was a gradual issue. They had to replace the upper tripple tree, as I believe the bushings are cast into the tripple tree. They came under one part number (single unit) from the factory.
 
I just had my r3t in the shop a couple months ago for some trany problems (broken clutch spring) and when the service manager and I rolled the bike off the trailer he noticed excessive play in the bars. I hadn't noticed it because it was a gradual issue. They had to replace the upper tripple tree, as I believe the bushings are cast into the tripple tree. They came under one part number (single unit) from the factory.
If that's the case, I wonder if replacing it with a standard rather than touring part would be in order?
 
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