greenbaron
.060 Over
great instructions, thanks! 
getting those brake line clamps out
- Thread starter greenbaron
- Start date
HeR3tic
Living Legend
Like rusty said...besides: Taking the fender off facilitates alignment of the Flipmeisters retaining bolts.
greenbaron
.060 Over
Not too sure about that OEM torque spec...
I do like those clamps... they go on pretty easy, too. However I'm thinking the OEM torque spec's on the fender attachment bolts provided with the instructions cannot be right - at least on the shorter, front bolts. The longer ones tightened up right to 27 Nm. The shorter ones started to yield after 21 Nm (I was going very slow fortunately) so I backed them out and retorqued to 20 Nm, just to be sure they would. Maybe the heat was getting to my brain, but why would two different lengths be torqued to the same spec anyway? Looked like a soft bolt, and who knows what type of nut spot welded to the inside... so, anyway I hope that's good to go...
the clamps do look very cool
I do like those clamps... they go on pretty easy, too. However I'm thinking the OEM torque spec's on the fender attachment bolts provided with the instructions cannot be right - at least on the shorter, front bolts. The longer ones tightened up right to 27 Nm. The shorter ones started to yield after 21 Nm (I was going very slow fortunately) so I backed them out and retorqued to 20 Nm, just to be sure they would. Maybe the heat was getting to my brain, but why would two different lengths be torqued to the same spec anyway? Looked like a soft bolt, and who knows what type of nut spot welded to the inside... so, anyway I hope that's good to go...
the clamps do look very cool
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
I do like those clamps... they go on pretty easy, too. However I'm thinking the OEM torque spec's on the fender attachment bolts provided with the instructions cannot be right - at least on the shorter, front bolts. The longer ones tightened up right to 27 Nm. The shorter ones started to yield after 21 Nm (I was going very slow fortunately) so I backed them out and retorqued to 20 Nm, just to be sure they would. Maybe the heat was getting to my brain, but why would two different lengths be torqued to the same spec anyway? Looked like a soft bolt, and who knows what type of nut spot welded to the inside... so, anyway I hope that's good to go...
the clamps do look very cool
There isn't one in the Shop Manual or anywhere else for that matter. I took the torque specification from Machinery's Handbook, cross referencing the bolt size against the European Standard. There are quite a few fasteners on the R3 that have no torque specification whatsoever. It's not the heat. I checked the PDF file on the instruction sheet and the smaller capscrews are listed to be dry torqued to 10Nm. The bolts are stainless alloy, so, just like the Pannier liner socket head caps, I'd suggest a little never-sieze. Stainless tends to gall easily. I ought to know. I've scrapped quite a few Brakeline Clamps with siezed tooling. On torque wrnches, remember, it all depends on the wrench. Not all torque wrenches are created equal. There is a wide, but acceptable variation in tolreance and as the wrench ages it changes value. I use a Snap-On dial indicator 1/4" and 1/2" torque wrench and I have them re-calibrated every 2 years.
Last edited:
greenbaron
.060 Over
Yea, I have a Snap-on Techwrench electronic, very nice... hasn't been recalibrated yet, but it only gets very light use and is just a couple of years old.
Just to be clear, there are four 12mm hex head bolts attaching the fender to the forks- the two in the front are quite a bit shorter than the two in the back. The instructions indicate (unless I'm reading it wrong) all four get torqued to 27Nm, which does not appear to be a good thing to do. The four 10mm bolts torqued to 10Nm seemed fine.
Just to be clear, there are four 12mm hex head bolts attaching the fender to the forks- the two in the front are quite a bit shorter than the two in the back. The instructions indicate (unless I'm reading it wrong) all four get torqued to 27Nm, which does not appear to be a good thing to do
. The four 10mm bolts torqued to 10Nm seemed fine.
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
Section 17.11 ot the Triumph Shop Manual states:
Fit and tighten the mudgard fixings (4 ) capscrews to 27 Nm.
Fit and tighten the shroud fixings to(4) capscrews to 9 Nm.
I had to do some digging for the 9Nm. My Machinery's Handbook was only 1 Nm off.
The Mudgard Fixings bolts are the 4 that engage the welded nuts on the fender itself.
Those are dry torque specs right from the Shop Manual.
Fit and tighten the mudgard fixings (4 ) capscrews to 27 Nm.
Fit and tighten the shroud fixings to(4) capscrews to 9 Nm.
I had to do some digging for the 9Nm. My Machinery's Handbook was only 1 Nm off.
The Mudgard Fixings bolts are the 4 that engage the welded nuts on the fender itself.
Those are dry torque specs right from the Shop Manual.
greenbaron
.060 Over
Thanks for confirming that info- I'll back out the 10mm fasteners to 9Nm, but I'm too chicken to tighten the two short 12mm's beyond where they're at now. Just didn't feel right, and I've crapped up my share of fasteners by overtightening (that's why I have a fancy torque wrench!)- will keep an eye on them tho'...
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
Thanks for confirming that info- I'll back out the 10mm fasteners to 9Nm, but I'm too chicken to tighten the two short 12mm's beyond where they're at now. Just didn't feel right, and I've crapped up my share of fasteners by overtightening (that's why I have a fancy torque wrench!)- will keep an eye on them tho'...
I've become used to using 242 threadlocker on everything and 272 on things I never want to take apart again. I have a 250 Ml bottle of each.
RenegadeRoy
.020 Over
drill them
I snipped off most of the part you can see, then drilled a hole from the outside.
Grabbed them with some pliers which collapsed them... came right out.
Roy
I snipped off most of the part you can see, then drilled a hole from the outside.
Grabbed them with some pliers which collapsed them... came right out.
Roy
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