First Valve Check for Fiona, my '14 R3T...

MIG

Road Therapy...
Joined
May 26, 2014
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Location
Tucson, AZ
Ride
"Fiona" my '14 R3T & "Delilah" my '16 V-Rod Muscle
I'm just shy of 30K miles on Fiona and I decided to go ahead have the valve's checked. Each one was out of spec. With the intake valve spec being .10-.15 mm, mine were .18 .23 .18 .20 .20 .20 respectively. For the exhaust valves, the spec is .15-.20 mm and mine were .25 .25 .25 .25 .25 .25. I almost think the exhaust valves came that way from the factory. Glad I had it done and our local Triumph dealer here in Tucson did not take me the cleaners. Since they were doing the work, I also had them lube/adjust the head bearing, change the final fluid, install new spark plugs, adjust the throttle bodies, replace the brake fluids, drop in a new air filter and lube everything else that needs lube. A lot of that I do myself, but it's to **** HOT!!! and I needed it done. My dealer was AWESOME! and they'll be seeing my again. I just wish they wouldn't use the engine cut-off switch (like the owner's manual states). First thing I did when I got home was do a 12-minute tune.

Since there's always talk about the valve spec and need for it (or not). I thought I'd share my results here...

Interesting note on the engine cut-off switch, I was talking to a HD dealer (with my V-Rod) and they stated they don't use it either as it's a common failure point. They obviously don't build them as good as turn signal switches (which get heavy heavy use...).

-MIG
 
That's great that they wore in sync mostly. Good news is, the seats work harden as does the alum behind them, so in 30k more you can expect significantly less adjustment required.

There's no issue using cutoff switch, at all.
Everyone using keyless setups uses it routinely. Not sure why they propagated that myth in the manual, but it's genuinely not a weak point.

I'd venture to guess it's a holdover from the non-roadsters that had the less robust ignition circuit design.
 
That's great that they wore in sync mostly. Good news is, the seats work harden as does the alum behind them, so in 30k more you can expect significantly less adjustment required.

There's no issue using cutoff switch, at all.
Everyone using keyless setups uses it routinely. Not sure why they propagated that myth in the manual, but it's genuinely not a weak point.

I'd venture to guess it's a holdover from the non-roadsters that had the less robust ignition circuit design.
 
That's great that they wore in sync mostly. Good news is, the seats work harden as does the alum behind them, so in 30k more you can expect significantly less adjustment required.

There's no issue using cutoff switch, at all.
Everyone using keyless setups uses it routinely. Not sure why they propagated that myth in the manual, but it's genuinely not a weak point.

I'd venture to guess it's a holdover from the non-roadsters that had the less robust ignition circuit design.
I think it's more likely a holdover fromt the problems the early bikes had with no idle or idling at 2000 rpm and nobody had an answer. It became like a black art to fix it. We were told to never use the sidestand or the cutoff switch because it was "confusing" the ECU. It took about three years before it was discovered that many of the TPS were bad and the new ones with blue internals fixed it.
 
So... I just took my first ride after bringing her home from the dealer. My father-in-law I and took a nice 100 mile trip to Sells, AZ and back. Unfortunately, she smells STRONG of fuel that doesn't dissipate like sticking your nose in a gas can. Strange I see no leak or wetness... just the strong odor. I'll call the dealer on Tuesday...but wow... she never smelled like this. It's like leaving an open can of gas in your garage. It seems to be coming from the left side. A problem with the fuel breather? Throttle bodies?? ARGH...

She's definitely sitting outside uncovered until I get this resolved. I don't want the fumes to build up under the cover.

-MIG
 
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