Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

Rear end fully assembled and ready to bed the brakes in.

2004 Daytona 600 rotor, turns out it's 5mm larger than stock, so technically 0.5mm short of a perfect match to rear pads. As they wear, a tiny lip may develop, but I doubt it. HH pads so they wear slower anyways, new pads in hand for change if required on the salt.
Dam, that wheel is gorgeous!
 
Shakedown completed without major incident. Tire scrubbed in enough to run it hard in the future. Heats up fast, going to work well on the salt. Even cold it held full throttle in 2nd in 77f, so Pirelli weren't lying about being a tolerant heat range race tire.
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Mufasa ****ing hauls ass. LMAO. I had forgotten, being accustomed to the H2, JUST how hard it yanks at WOT in any gear. Jesus. Christ. What did I build....

140mph developed a slight oscillation, I'm positive it's the 150/70 front tire, that comes off tomorrow. Back out of it of course but man does it want to run like an animal....

Saw a viper and z06 on the freeway but ...traffic :( wanted to eat some snake but alas not to be today.

The 200 section rear is ungodly. Skip shocks, skip farkles, lights, whatever and just buy a 17x6.5, fit a 200 for R3 performance IMHO. Complete transformation.

Cornering...effortless (even with very narrow bars), stable, holds a line exactly neutral mid corner, double the limit in 25s uses hardly any tire, see pic of wear lines. I will never...ever, put the 16 back on (barring necessity), it's that good.
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For the cost of Wilbers 642s you can get a rear rim, and, IMHO it's hands down the better choice. Granted, this is a race tire so...it's obviously going to feel better, but man, just blown away at the transformation.

Tune is solid, 14ish below 3k, dipping to 13ish above 3k up to 8k at WOT. Low 12s during hard rollons rising to 13ish after enrichment timer and cruises mid 13s at 80-110mph in 2nd through 5th gear. Don't think we'll need much tuning on the salt.

Finally, now that it's been ridden enough to get truly hot and flash off all the yuck from sitting, I can change the oil. It's low mileage, but it's been sitting for a while, so might as well change it before it gets worked hard.

Oh, and last thought, pocket is dead still. Tucked, I can see through the screen, read the gauges, brace arms on tank, and ride like the wind. It has more of a pocket than either my ZH2 or Daytona 955i.
 
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Reviewing the data logs, all seems well. If anything, it's a little rich overall and remains temperamental below 2% throttle. Definitely the same bike as before haha.

Given that the race gas is oxygenated, I'm good with that, should help control temps when flat out for a few miles, and the lean at low opening thing makes it extra docile when put putting around. Perfect for the salt.
 
Unbelievable. Even with narrow bars the bike drops right into corners and stays in line with very little bar pressure. Mid corner is no bar pressure or if any is needed it's opposite pressure on the outer grip to keep it from oversteering mid corner. The oversteering tendency is, I'm sure, the very steep shoulder of the rear tire.

Kind of gives it that telepathic feel where it just goes where you think and I stop thinking about my steering motions and just flow through corners, like my H2.

Was being fairly gentle in corners as it's a brand new tire and whole new bike setup to me.

Rear brake works great. Bike is notably more flickable, how much is tire and how much is rotational inertia reduction hard to say.

Custom Ikon shocks are supple, but function well at speed. Well enough they didn't enter my mind until I stopped and reflected. Vastly more livable than the Wilbers.
 
Good luck Rob. Savor the experience! Oh, and take a heat gun and some gelled super glue so you can modify the wind screen as needed. If you have a big pocket at 140, you will leave a boat sized wake at 200. Also expect the R3 air temp sensor to not compensate fully for the temps you will see. My experience is that as temps approach the high 90's the engine runs progressively fatter.
 
I believe I've found my divergent weave root cause. Still doing new bearings today for good measure. Zero play in headstock, but I'll have a set on hand + tools if it persists.

Funnily enough, I had the steering damper cranked to max when I lifted the front end, the revised mounting point nearly doubled the force exterted on steering, so that's a big win.


The actual balance point is with the visible wheel weights at 4:30 clock position.

Again, a dealer demonstrates they're trash and not to be trusted.

Will be buying one of these to avoid putting my faith in "mechanics" in the future:
 
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