Crank and clutch workings

[rubber2burn]

Couldnt see it for looking

 

[tmiller]

If you all notice the pins on the oil pump sprocket (located on the transmission mainshaft), they mate with the holes on the outer clutch hub and that turns all the time, clutch in or out. You always have oil pressure!

Tom

 

[MiamiDave]

How long would it take someone of average skill to change a clutch out...?

 

[RiderRocketman]

Assuming you have the correct tools (service manual says you need a special tool to disassemble the clutch, though when my tech gave me the clutch assembly, I didn't see a need for anything special - could be for removing the assembly from the tranny rod), you have to remove the radiator, clutch linkages and anything else that would obstruct opening up the front engine casing. I'd bet getting in there and putting all that stuff back is most of the time - maybe an hour each way.

Then you take out the clutch assembly and take that apart, though maybe you can keep that whole thing in and replace the plates and springs in place. My tech took out the whole deal because I wanted to send it all to Barnett. I don't recall what the manual said about that. I'll take a look later unless someone else can.

I'd bet the whole job would take 3 hours for an average guy.

 

[yogi1]

here is a microfiche of the Valkyrie clutch----------the Rocket's can't be that much different.



After looking at this you can see a bit more of the workings and it may make more sense now.

There are multiple steel plates (keyed on the inside) in between the friction plates (keyed on the outside).

The parts keyed on the outside move whenever there are engine RPMs.

The parts keyed on the inside are keyed into the transmission.

Part #2 is what is being replaced on mine. the splines have a bit of play when it slides on to the main shaft. Not sure if this is really whats causing the problem, but we'll see. I should be able to pick it up tomorrow.

 

[RiderRocketman]

I looked at the service manual again and it looks like you can replace the plates and springs without having to take out the entire clutch assembly. That special tool also won't be needed if that's the case because it locks the outer and inner drums together so you can undo the nuts securing the assembly to the tranny rod.

Of course, I'm not a qualified mechanic so I don't know if it is better practice to remove the whole clutch to replace the plates.That might be the case because I'd think you'd want the plates installed so they are centered properly. If they're installed with the assembly still in the engine (plates vertical), the plates may be off center because gravity will pull them down. Maybe someone who has done clutches can answer that.

 

[RiderRocketman]

I consulted my dealer tech about replacing the clutch plates and he said that you do not need to remove the whole clutch assembly or outer and inner drums.

Just remove the 5 bolts securing the pressure plate and springs and replace everything inline. No special tools needed.

 

[RiderRocketman]

Also, I have confirmed that the part that meshes with the oil pump gears in the back of the outer clutch drum is a fixed part of the outer drum and not part of the bearing that meshes with the tranny rod. It only appears to be a separate part because of the recessed ring surrounding it. So like tmiller said, the oil pumps are running off the clutch outer drum which is always turning when the engine is running.

 

[Triple Trouble]

A few comments to keep things straight here. There is NO way that the oil pump wont be driven at all times. Also the scavenge pump has a greater capacity than the supply pump to ensure that the motor stays "dry".
The number of cylinders is only one factor in engine balance as anyone who has ridden a Hardly or a Norton will attest even numbered engines do vibrate as, for many reasons, the cylinders do not cancel each other out.
HTH
Hope I :cry: don't sound too miserable just cos it is getting too cold to ride regularly here

 

[leemo]

good info