Cam chain/clutch/no start

You can bench test your starter with a 12 volt battery. The clunk is the solenoid engaging the bendix drive, the starter not turning may be an issue with the brushes (if it uses them) or bushings. To test if the bushings are going out, rap the starter with a hammer (not hard enough to cave in the housing, I know it's frustrating). If the starter kicks over the engine, your starter end bushings are worn and starter needs replaced. If you set the starter on your bench and connect the battery to the end terminals it should spin right up, if not your commutation circuit (or brushes) are fried. Of course if you have the old starter on the bench you might just slip a new unit in and see what's what........
 
So when I took apart the starter motor housing, I found a bunch of metallic powder/shavings inside. I ordered a new Solara starter that should be arriving today. Hopefully that solves it.

Do you know if the ECU circuit to the OEM starter relay has to be connected for the bike to start? I'm thinking that bypassing it would make a remote start setup a lot easier to install, as long as the bypass doesn't screw up the computer. I haven't been able to find anyone who has shared a remote start install on this page.


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Ken will have to answer the electrical wizard Stuff.

Well, now I'm getting pissed. New starter motor installed, first push of the button turned it over. Second, third, fourth, et al? Click. Took the solenoid apart again and cleaned the contacts again. Same exact thing. One partial turnover and then nothing but clicks.

Ugh!! I'm running out of ideas. :-/


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So I appear to have figured out what was wrong. My keyless ignition had failed (again) a couple months ago while I was at work. As a net tech for the phone company, I got creative and set up a cat5 hotwire with an Ethernet plug & jack (RJ45). It looks like the brown and green pairs either pulled out of the plug or burned off from the current. Either way, I changed to a toggle switch with 14ga wire, installed the secondary starter relay and now it starts like a champ. Hopefully it continues to do so.

Now if I can just figure out how to jumper the clutch switch, I can replace the keyless ignition with a remote start setup. Leaving the kickstand switch unjumpered would ensure that it will never try to remote start if it is in gear while the kickstand is down.


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Haven't looked at the clutch switch but it should be just a standard contact that's made up when you pull the lever. You should be able to mechanically close the contacts, no jumper needed.
 
Haven't looked at the clutch switch but it should be just a standard contact that's made up when you pull the lever. You should be able to mechanically close the contacts, no jumper needed.

Thanks, Atom! I might try that.

So I've got this magnificent beast, but I can't ride it. After thinking my starter problems were solved, I found out I was wrong. After replacing the motor (again) and filing the plunger contacts of the solenoid back to smooth shininess, I set up the secondary relay for the starter. It worked the first few times, but now instead of a solenoid click, I get about a quarter second turn of the starter and the bike resets, including needle sweep and fuel pump spin-up. I just undid the secondary relay, putting back to OEM 5-pin relay and now I'm back to just a solenoid click. If this bike didn't have so much sentimental value and our union contract wasn't expiring next year, I'd think about trading it in. Of course, it has to be running to do that and if it's running I have no interest in getting rid of it.

Any ideas for things I haven't checked would be greatly appreciated.


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Also, I took the boot off the clutch switch at the handle. It meter 312 ohms resistance with the handle out and open with the handle pulled in. I might just try sticking a piece of electrical tape in the gap and see how that works for a while instead of disconnecting one of the wires.


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