Carpenter Starting Issue

Steel · Mar 10, 2018

It has hot cams, and 13.5 to 1 pistons, and spins over as fast as my stock motor.

sleeves · Mar 10, 2018

I had a battery once with an intermittent terminal issue and the battery terminal would lose contact with the plates inside and periodically not work, then test fine, had to replace battery. Wasnt on the R3 must add

barbagris · Mar 10, 2018

If it was starting fine using teh same setup before then:-

Load test the battery.

Check all cables. All it takes is one iffy contact.

Beef them up before a bigger starter.

Keep spare solenoid repair kits. More amps means more arcing wear.

1olbull · Mar 10, 2018

Just go buy a new battery!
Case closed, King!

R-III-R Turbo · Mar 10, 2018

Claviger said:
I'll keep this as short as I can.

Carpenter Kit
DEcosse Ignition
Yusa Battery that tests good
1.2kw starter
Extra 4 gauge ground cable installed
Temps have been low 40s in the morning.

Have the bike on a charger overnight, battery measures at 13.4 volts resting. When I hit the switch it tries but fails to turn the motor. This sets my "distance to empty gauge" to 0 as voltage drops below the ECUs threshold. I plug in my Antigravity jump box, it fires without issue. Then, for the rest of the day it starts fine, but sometimes doesn't, and I have to jump box it again.

Once started everything is fine, voltages while idling are in the high 13 range.

It's not putting a big load on the jump box, haven't charged it in 4 days, still reads fully charged after 15 or so jump starts. I never had a single issue with DEcosse's ignition before and don't believe that is the problem.

My question:
Is this a battery issue, a "need a 1.4kw starter" issue, or a both battery and 1.4kw starter issue?

Remember: Biggest Carpenter cam, 13.5ish compression.

EDIT: I ordered a cheap replacement battery, OEM cross-refrenced part number, it was even worse.

I'd say dual (Yuasa & lithium) battery setup or the 1.4kw starter with just the Yuasa is required.

Starter upgrade best solution.

Edit: Did you replace the stator when motor was split for the tranny work?
If not - then there's your problem

Claviger · Mar 10, 2018

Mittzy said:
Does it sound like the relay engages then tries to turn motor over then stops (sounds “Chunk”)? Then won’t even click the relay? If so change your start relay (right hand side cover - relay in the middle).
This was happening to my Lush 248hp bike.
Almost like the relay wants to do the job then says nope.[/QUOTE

Exactly what it does. Press button, goes CHUNK, and then doesn't spin the motor. Think I'm just going to go full on and do the 1.4kw starter, new solenoid, and new 480 cranking amp battery. Sick to death of killing at least 1 battery per year :/

Claviger · Mar 10, 2018

R-III-R Turbo said:
I'd say dual (Yuasa & lithium) battery setup or the 1.4kw starter with just the Yuasa is required.

Starter upgrade best solution.

Edit: Did you replace the stator when motor was split for the tranny work?
If not - then there's your problem

Actually, yes A new stator was put in at the 7,000 mile mark in Hawaii for peace of mind, covered by Triumph warranty.

Mittzy · Mar 10, 2018

Change the STARTER RELAY at least give it a try - if it is not even clicking NO Power will be going to the solenoid. A cheep thing to change

Edit: I e just been fiddling and it appears the ECU or something else is controlling the feed to the starter relay - to protect the starter if low voltage

Claviger · Mar 10, 2018

Yep, just going to do the whole thing, not ****ing around with this or that...it's only money and not being frustrated at a non-starting bike is a priority.

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