Carpenter racing

Greggry

.020 Over
Joined
Jan 27, 2014
Messages
22
Ride
2011 R3R
After a 2 year delay of getting my bike done due to health/family issues I am finally going to be getting my bike done by carpenter racing. I am going to be calling them up next week to hopefully get my bike in the shop within 6 weeks. Since I know a bunch of you guys have work done by them, if you have any recomendations on what I should do, let me know. I know the standard setup doesn't run a built clutch/basket, or aftermarket rods, I am kind of thinking I should do both of those to assure reliabilty (and give me room to grow if I decide to go for more power). I would imagine aftermarket rods would require the whole rotating assembly to be pulled and re balanced? What air filters do they normally run? Everyones bike that comes from them seems to have different filters. Anyone pushing more power then 240 at the tire on motor? I would realistically like to be in the 260 hp range at the tire (reliably) since I want to see mid 9s (9.5 to 9.6) in the quarter mile. Since I weigh 280, and I don't want to run the skinny handlebars/skinny tire/way dropped suspension of their race bike, I think Its going to take me more power then 240 to hit mid 9s. For the record the bike will not spend much time on the track, or beat on, just enough to know I am still alive :). Thanks for any advice.
 
They have a big valve kit now that is pushing 270, I believe. Normally they don't pull the engine, but I think they would have to in order to change rods. I run K&N 1770s on my Touring, a bit awkward, I think you have more options with the Roadster. Bob is pretty confident of the stock parts with the 240 kit, I'd talk to him about it, super nice guy and willing to spend the time on the phone to talk to you.

Warp 9.9 has had his engine apart more times than I can count, he could tell you more, he's pushin' a couple extra ponies.
 
I'm jealous and happy for you at the same time. I wouldn't see much if any track time but the thought crosses my mind every time some youngin' blows past me headlong into the abyss of DC area traffic. I hold back (except that one time when the super-charged BMW 7 series cut me off; but I digress) to avoid meeting Johnny Law while trying to get my Touring bike to come to grips with the idea that it isn’t really a race bike (I’m pretty sure I won’t win that mind game though, it seems to be bred into its DNA way to greatly).
 
The engien does not have to come out to change the rods and Bob can get some crower rods for you I have them in mine the install was easy. Of course I must point out to you that the OEM rods are a great set and have been holding up well. But hey if you have money to burn or just want piece of mind like I did then he can get them. They are the best after market rods readily available the only others are Corrilla rods which Bob does not like or promote he will explan why. Now as for the Clutch you can beef the basket up by sending your to MTC and they will install a billet forged basket with larger rivets. They have fibers but Bob uses some special Busa fibers in the shop bike. there has only been two clutch baskets that have exploded that I know of which both had turbo's on the bike. The turbo kits available hit hard at low rpms and run out of snoot at 5500 to 6000 which are worthles on a High rpm motor. They are to small but the smaller ones do not have turbo lag and work well on a low rpm motor.You won't win races with them (same with the low rpm superchager kits) but you sure will have fun :) I did find some wear on my basket in the back spring seats but it never exploded and I have been known to abuse my bike on a regular basis. As far as I know I am the only one who has grenaded the internal clutch hub which there is no after market hubs available so I went right back with another OEM one and have had no problems thus far I did add longer clutch spring bolts as I found the OEM ones did not go into the body of the hub they stop right before the fillet radius in the spring towers. IMO longer ones were needed for better strength.

Now all this being said I spent a lot more on my bike then would have been needed because I already had a Supercharger and well as some of thepeople from Oz might say I am a bit of a nutter :)
My advice to you is if your just going to maintain spunking around on the road go with the 240 kit I believe if you know what your doing you will be in the 9's even with your weight. When I first hit the drag strip I was in the 9's with just the TTS kit and a 7500 rpm shift point. (And I surley am no drag racer) My point being is why waste money you will only use once in a while. If you ask some of the guys with the 240 kit who has really turned them on (shift when there is not more tach numbers) they will tell you you will be ****ting your drawers. I am not sure because a lot of them have not fully used the power band yet but will tell you its a monster at 7500 or so.

Now the best horse power on Bobs kits have been with his pipe which is not included in the kit. Nether is the PCV. Also the high HP is tuned with just the OEM stacks not any filters. I believe th ebest power after installing filter is with the 1770 filters. You can always pull the filter when you race at the strip and put them back on for the road. So what filters do you run or should you run is really dependent on the owners. Every Captain has ther own opinion on how they want their beast to look. so I have seen a varriety of filters on his kits. Things to take in mind is the size of the captain and what they like the 1770 and the other larger 4041-1, the small 2780's which fit under the bear claw are what I have seen on the kits. Myself I went with a piper cross set up I adapted to a stocker.
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Now when I built this filter set up I was looking at eventually getting a 240 kit for the bike so I went with the laargest highest rated bulk horse power filter Pipercross had. and moved it forward so my knee would clear it. If I had not wrecked it I most likely would have tried different sized filters and tested them to find out how small I could go and yet still keep the hp. So I must admit it has not been on a dyno so I cannot tell you its true performance. All I can say is from using the A/F meter on the bike I had to add fuel do to more intake air entering the engine. I suspect it would work nicely on a Carpenter engine. I also designed it to house both AIT and atmospheric pressure sensors the bike has. I am looking at a 09 Classic as a second stead and it will have this filter and a Carpenter pipe on it. And who knows eventually a Carpenter kit :)

In a nut shell most filters are what the operator likes and what he wants to do with it.

I have overloaded you enough with this response so I will let you read it so it soaks in. I will say build you bike how you like it even if you have to give up a couple ponies.
Hope its helps you make some desisions.
 
YOUR ETs will depend on your riding ability and that takes some practice we havnt had any clutch basket failures so far and and thats with as much as 500hp SO if your looking for max HP go with the 270 package if the extra cost isnt an issue and weve run the streamliner on the car dyno that has a 2000 lb drum with stock clutch backets and over 100 dyno pulls
 
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YOUR ETs will depend on your riding ability and that takes some practice we hvnt had any cluthch basket failures so far and and thats with as much as 500hp SO if your looking for max HP go with the 270 package if the extra cost isnt an issue
Of course the only strain on those two 500 hp motors have been tuning on the dyno :) They did not even out run a stock bike on the flats!!! (YET but eventually will)
 
Y'all are feeding that Lil Monster in my Head!!! Im a Mod addict who loves to have the baddest around my neighborhood anyway!!!
270 hp **** how much tq is that pushing with it???
 
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