the J W Speaker light that Ponters, Chris and my self have were originally meant for Mining Trucks which run 24 volt that is why they have the bigger Heat Sink than the Daymakers
Not so much a heat sink difference, Hans, as when running off 24V the current draw is less. Watts are watts. But it's MUCH more expensive to build GOOD multi voltage stabilised constant output current LED drivers than single voltage input. The early ones were 24 & 12V compliant in one package. Depending on the LED used - they could be 3.3V - 7V or 13.5V. Normally about 350 or 700ma. Cant remember if they're Phillips Altilon or OSRAM LEDs right now. And the number of dies in the package matters too.
Since then JWS have obviously seen where they sell more gear (JEEP owners - maybe Land Rover too) and have simplified some stuff to get the prices down to compete with Truck Lite.
They've issued 12V only Fogs - smaller - brighter - cheaper. I'm debating (with myself) over some 6145, 6146 or 6150 models.
The 12v only 8630 , are about 50% cheaper. and less than HD's "new" Daymaker over here. The 12V only JWS 8630 is used by Ariel Motorcycles in their "ACE".
The early JWS and early HD-Daymakers WERE identical - about a year ago HD announced the different Daymakers. These are different BUT the design concepts are similar.
The big plus I see is that Main is supplementary to DIP
JWS 8630 are either DIP or MAIN. Frankly it's not a HUGE difference on the 8630 as the majority of useful light comes from the lateral "D" lenses which are always on.
IMO the JWS 8630's
need supplementary CLOSE IN LIGHT - one major "problem" with LEDs is almost zero scatter. So the cut off dark/light can be much more evident.
I modified a set of Triumph Fogs to use CREE XM-L2 led emitters and cover the dark close in. -
and no it's not easy. You really need access to proper optical calibration gear to do well. And lathes and end.mills.
BTW - the installation spec's for JWS state that the lights should be driven/supplied via RELAYS and one should avoid momentary current switching to avoid damage. As the lights flash OFF when you hit the starter - this COULD cause damage. I've built in a voltage activated relay such that current is only supplied to the lighting circuit once the engine is running and alternator charging. Plus have all sorts of overrides in place - force off - force on.
But imo (as I have both) if TRUCK-LITE will fit your bike USE THEM. The "real world" beam patterns are different. Main is supplemental to dip. "T" owners take note - the rest of us would need to fit twin 7" bowls. Possible and frankly I dont think they'd look too bad.
The difference in cost to the 12v only JWS is less - but they are cheaper. I've stuck one in my OLD Guzzi.
I have seen other € marked 7" LED lights appearing. Will look later and post some links. I have to run to the Doctors - checkup.