Blown Clutch?

blip

Supercharged
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
209
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Ride
2014 R3 Roadster
Hey Guys,
Was on the way to the drag strip in Mirabel quebec (I recommend it by the way) and expected to return with stories of awesome-ness. Instead though, on the way to the track, when trying to do a burnout (my bad I know ..... but you are expected to do these at the drag strip so I wanted to practice :S) something happened to my clutch. As a result I had to run on my buddies bike (a good friend for letting me do that).

Here are the symptoms:
- When the clutch lever is fully pressed (i.e. clutch disengaged) it is not fully disengaged. The bike will move forward even with the lever all the way in.
- I cannot get it into nuetral
- Shifting gears feels more like rev matching and power shifting than normal shifting, so same deal, clutch not disengaging

So is the clitch blown? Normally when I think blown clutch I think slipping, where this is the opposite problem.

What are your thoughts.
Such a shame, and it happened months after the warranty expired
 
Clutch Failure - Clutch will not disengage.

This thread sounds exactly like my issue with one exception: The clutch lever still has resistance and does 'partially' disengage the clutch. It seems logical that the clutch lever would not disengage the clutch at all if the shaft was snapped.

Is it possible the shaft is bent? (about to snap). Or I guess it could be something completely different.
 
Most likely your clutch lifter shaft is burnt so.uch ig doesnot pull the pressure plate eniugh to release the clutch. It also could be warped steels making them grab some like the clutch lever is not pulled far enough. First check cable adjustment to verify the 2 to 3 mm free play. If the free play is to much adjust it and check to see if your problem still exist. If it does then you will have to open her up which is about a 4 hour job.

Now about burn outs I was afraid to try it in the wet box as I did not want to drop the beast. I was told to drive right by it and did. I found there was so much rubber on the track thar the rockets rear stuck like glue on the launch.
 
Thanks for the suggestion Warp. That does sound right to me.
As for cause, is this just wear / stupidity? Or does this mean something was likely not adjusted properly or a defect from the beginning. The bike only has 20 000 KM on it.

Just wondering whether I should be trying to get my dealer/triumph to give me a break or take my lumps and move on.

4 hour job eh ..... time is never the problem it's complexity. Based on the manual it doesn't seem more than I can handle, if others who have done this have different advice please share your horror or success stories.

Last thing ..... while I've got her open, is there an aftermarket clutch that people recommend that I should replace while I am in there? Understanding that I am likely to do some mods in the next year. Or is the stock one as good as you need until you sup her up big time.

Cheers and thanks
 
It could be from improper adjustment all along which wore the lifter shaft. Also holding in the clutch lever and reving the motor sounds cool but will wear the lifter shaft and possibly the lifter piece. It is by no way adifficult job to do. Following the manual I was able to meet the Triumph 4 hour time. As for better fibers yes but your might be fine since its not releasing tell me you still have grip. The oem fibers will support a lot of horsepower. I have a set in my 243 hp rocket and they work fine I do like the MTC Fibers though.
 
Last edited:
Want to close the loop on this. Turns out it was not the pin but just warped steels that were the problem.

No idea how that happened but I will be installing a Barnett replacement heavy duty clutch since it comes with both replacement fibers and steels.

Thanks for the help everyone
 
They warp when they overheat, which they can do when you are revving the engine in gear whilst holding the clutch - even more so if the clutch is not adjusted correctly by even a small amount.
 
 
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