Bike won't start after Resource ECU map installed - Solved

Gentlemen:

Please, let's get back on topic.

@PaddyO did some things, and the bike won't start.

He, being human, quickly blames the most recent thing.

The beauty of this site, is we have the collective experience, and are not feeling the immediate frustration of a no-start machine, to ponder his situation with cold calculation, and hopefully, allow him to go to a better place.

ECU maps have been traded since before this site came along -- and that's been awhile and a bunch of maps.

In fact, this site's Resource forum is a relatively recent addition.

So broad, sweeping statements do not serve us well here.

Good (and bad, I suppose) tuners may change maps in our bikes.

Given the access made available to the masses via Tune ECU, and before that, with Tune Boy (my understanding is Tune ECU is an uncompensated blatant reverse engineering of Tune Boy), folks are free to monkey with their own maps, copy their maps and send to other people.

There are tuners who offer remote service, and these typically err on the side of caution, staying away from the edge of too lean.

So EVERY map comes with a caveat: "USE AT YOUR OWN RISK."

A bare handful of captains on this site actually understand what is going on inside the ECU. The rest who trade in ECU maps are throwing darts over the shoulder, blind folded, hoping for the best.

In my own case, I saw reference to the "de-restricting" tune for the Touring bikes, what I had, and I was interested. @HansO at the time, was tweaking that map for various folks' requests, including me.

At the cost of substantial reduction in fuel efficiency, his map was good enough for a number of us.

I've since come to understand the availability of, and benefits/wisdom - a dedicated map for my bike in its current condition, subject to limitations of the Dynajet machine and operator.

So all of us, take our individual experience, have some interests and desires associated with the Rocket.

Desires are the tricky part, because that is how we want the world to be - sometimes different than it is.

And when that difference impacts other people, and they don't see it our way -- we would do well to just back off.

Cooperate where we can, respectfully agree to disagree where we can't, and move on, dwelling on where we make others happy, and we in turn derive happiness.

In the end, it doesn't matter what is in your bike -- it only matters that your expectations are met, and if not, then the Serenity Prayer comes in:

Grant me the serenity to accept things I cannot change.

Grant me the courage to change the things I can.

Grant me the wisdom to know the difference.
 
During the installation of the tune, the battery was above 12.5 volts, the minimum needed, as I understand it, to install a tune. The voltage ranged between 12.7 and 13.1. The bike was on a battery charger. The fuse for the headlight was out during the install. It was put back in after the install. All of the tests in TuneECU were passed except the SAI test. What is SAI and what does its failure mean?
 
During the installation of the tune, the battery was above 12.5 volts, the minimum needed, as I understand it, to install a tune. The voltage ranged between 12.7 and 13.1. The bike was on a battery charger. The fuse for the headlight was out during the install. It was put back in after the install. All of the tests in TuneECU were passed except the SAI test. What is SAI and what does its failure mean?
SAI = Secondary Air Injection .
The rocket does not have that. Other then checking the starter relay to see if that is making the big klick / or wack sound. I would ask if you put a 2014 roadster tune in a touring ecu. Then I would be checking connections of the battery cables and get the battery up to 14.7 fully charged to eliminate the battery being weak. If you can run test like the fan, fuel pump, tachometer speedo test you know you are linked to the ecu which takes me away from the map. I would either load another tune or try a recover from failed download. Sometime it take a few times to recover. I 'm still think weak battery or loose corroded connection. Good luck, I hope you get it figured out.
 
SAI = Secondary Air Injection .
The rocket does not have that. Other then checking the starter relay to see if that is making the big klick / or wack sound. I would ask if you put a 2014 roadster tune in a touring ecu. Then I would be checking connections of the battery cables and get the battery up to 14.7 fully charged to eliminate the battery being weak. If you can run test like the fan, fuel pump, tachometer speedo test you know you are linked to the ecu which takes me away from the map. I would either load another tune or try a recover from failed download. Sometime it take a few times to recover. I 'm still think weak battery or loose corroded connection. Good luck, I hope you get it figured out.
Thanks Warp. I was thinking the fact that the various tests passed in TuneECU indicated the ECU is talking to the various sensors and the tune is therefore working. I also suspected SAI meant Secondary Air injection and the bike does not have that. Thanks for the confirmation. The battery is only a few months old. I will check the battery connections. I will check the kickstand switch and clutch switch connections, though I suspect they are OK since I do not hear the relay click when the clutch is out or kick stand is down. After that I will just have to start doing various trouble shooting until I find the problem. Was just hoping to narrow down the search. Thanks again.
 
Thanks Warp. I was thinking the fact that the various tests passed in TuneECU indicated the ECU is talking to the various sensors and the tune is therefore working. I also suspected SAI meant Secondary Air injection and the bike does not have that. Thanks for the confirmation. The battery is only a few months old. I will check the battery connections. I will check the kickstand switch and clutch switch connections, though I suspect they are OK since I do not hear the relay click when the clutch is out or kick stand is down. After that I will just have to start doing various trouble shooting until I find the problem. Was just hoping to narrow down the search. Thanks again.
Have you reflashed the ecu with the stock 20367 tune or other tune?

just my thoughts from my own experiences with my touring (I’m not claiming any expertise):

I am running the referred to tune on my touring - it works fine for me (although runs a bit too rich but I’ve leaned it out a little with a power commander and autotune ) mine is a 2018 so not sure if that makes any difference but I doubt it. I have also experienced the click on start symptom you refer to. When I did I just reflashed the tune and everything fired right up so my guess from my experience was something didn’t happen right when flashing the ecu.

I have noticed it is essential to follow the messages on tunecu.... after flashing tunecu says turn off for something like 5 seconds then turn key back on (or something like that) and you have to do it whilst still connected .... I think when I first did it I disconnected tune ecuafter flashing without following the message and that was when I got the click.... however I have no way of knowing if that caused it.... just that ref lashing fixed it....obviously also make sure battery is charged and that you have reinstalled the fuses you pulled for the headlight before restarting.... all little errors I’ve made myself... a click on pressing start is what happens if the battery is too drained to start but from one of your posts it sounds like battery is not the issue

every bike is different/not the same and tunes were built for specific bikes...for instance I tried running the tune Joesmoe has reported to be running successfully but it throws a check engine light due to an o2 sensor error.... not sure what that’s about perhaps it’s designed to have the sensor disconnected or something ... haven’t figured it out yet .... still experimenting

The other possibility I suppose is the tachometer? Could that cause any issues?... I don’t know anything specific about that as I haven’t done it but have seen posts from people having various problems with installing and getting them to work whilst others have had no issue

as I say.... I’m no expert, particularly with bikes but I’ve flashed various electronics things for years with computers, phone etc....sometimes flashing has odd results and just needs to be redone
 
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Let's just call it a copy of a Nels tune loaded into another R3T. I think Rob (Claviger) is the one that loaded it into the resource center after it was loaded onto the Web based Tune ECU site before it was abandoned.

bob
Great tune for about that settup
 
Have you reflashed the ecu with the stock 20367 tune or other tune?

just my thoughts from my own experiences with my touring (I’m not claiming any expertise):

I am running the referred to tune on my touring - it works fine for me (although runs a bit too rich but I’ve leaned it out a little with a power commander and autotune ) mine is a 2018 so not sure if that makes any difference but I doubt it. I have also experienced the click on start symptom you refer to. When I did I just reflashed the tune and everything fired right up so my guess from my experience was something didn’t happen right when flashing the ecu.

I have noticed it is essential to follow the messages on tunecu.... after flashing tunecu says turn off for something like 5 seconds then turn key back on (or something like that) and you have to do it whilst still connected .... I think when I first did it I disconnected tune ecuafter flashing without following the message and that was when I got the click.... however I have no way of knowing if that caused it.... just that ref lashing fixed it....obviously also make sure battery is charged and that you have reinstalled the fuses you pulled for the headlight before restarting.... all little errors I’ve made myself... a click on pressing start is what happens if the battery is too drained to start but from one of your posts it sounds like battery is not the issue

every bike is different/not the same and tunes were built for specific bikes...for instance I tried running the tune Joesmoe has reported to be running successfully but it throws a check engine light due to an o2 sensor error.... not sure what that’s about perhaps it’s designed to have the sensor disconnected or something ... haven’t figured it out yet .... still experimenting

The other possibility I suppose is the tachometer? Could that cause any issues?... I don’t know anything specific about that as I haven’t done it but have seen posts from people having various problems with installing and getting them to work whilst others have had no issue

as I say.... I’m no expert, particularly with bikes but I’ve flashed various electronics things for years with computers, phone etc....sometimes flashing has odd results and just needs to be redone

Thanks. I will try reflashing the tune as well.
 
@Rocket_Rider Thank you for the suggestion to reload the tune. Your explanation was especially helpful. The third and final time to load the tune worked. In my searches of various threads, I had not seen that particular suggestion. For some reason the first two loads did not take. I had thought based on one thread I had read, that the tune might have been corrupted in the download process, so I downloaded it again and installed it again. Still no start. It passed all of the tests in TuneECU as well. Installed the tune again (this was the third time) and this time it worked. Be sure to follow the installation instructions on Home | TuneECU. You will need to create a login to access the boards. The how-to section with various instructions is found here: How To. [EDIT} The third time I installed the tune, I did something different from the instructions on the TuneECU site based on what @Rocket_Rider said. After the "Reset Adaption" the instructions say "When done, start the motor and let it running at idle for 15 min without touching the throttle. Stop the motor after the 15 min." Instead, I turned the ignition off, reinstalled the fuse which had been pulled earlier in the process, turned the ignition back on, and then started the bike without touching the throttle, and let it run for 15 minutes. This appeared to be the difference which made a difference. So if anyone has a similar problem, try this change in the procedure. Again, thanks to all for the various suggestions.
 
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