Batch of Custom Handlebars

[EasTexRIII]

Rob you forgot to mention, being Alloy they will also dampen Vibration to a certain extent but more than steel bars can, if I still had my R3 I would definitely be interested, I always switched my dirt bike bars to alloy because it just felt better at the end of a day without all the buzzing dirtbike gave you

Actually, with dirt bike having longer travel suspension, that doesn't cross over very well to the Rocket. Back in the day when racing bicycles first started exploring building aluminum frames they found that to save weight with aluminum, which was the goal, they had to make the wall thickness thinner BUT the overall diameter had to be larger to increase the strength of the tubing so the frames wouldn't break. So to make a frame as strong as 4130 chromoly steel and make it lighter, they end up with big tube bike frames and the ride was harsh as shyt!!!! Felt like riding an anvil. So that phase lasted only a few years until they perfected the carbon fiber frame which was lighter than steel AND more comfortable. They ventured into titanium also but that stuff flexed too much and was whippey, which robbed power to the wheel
There's always been the saying in certain applications: steel is real.......... unless you have carbon fiber of course
That being said, the steel bars have more flex which yes, will vibrate. So bar end weights are needed to reduce that, but stiff aluminum bars will not give & you feel everything that is transferred from the road. Of course better suspension decreases that.
So really there are just trade offs with each.
I prefer the 4130 steel

 

[barbagris]

Interested.... as long as they come instructions on how to switch them out....

I'm with Mully!! In with istructions!!

Well you'll need
1) Angle grinder - with cutting disc.
2) Acetylene Torch
3) 4lb club hammer.
4) Not 100% required, but recommended - 5axis CNC mill.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Rob you forgot to mention, being Alloy they will also dampen Vibration to a certain extent but more than steel bars can, if I still had my R3 I would definitely be interested, I always switched my dirt bike bars to alloy because it just felt better at the end of a day without all the buzzing dirtbike gave you

TITANIUM? Custom Titanium Tubing North America - Titanium Joe

Heavy steel bars will dampen the vibration better than any of the lighter materials thats why they use bar end weights on a lot of bikes

 

[barbagris]

Heavy steel bars will dampen the vibration better than any of the lighter materials thats why they use bar end weights on a lot of bikes

If you use short stiff tubes (welded up) you will not need weights. Use long bent tubes and an end weight dampens down induced harmonics. Brass does it best. A light tube with end weights would work fine. And if the bar is too heavy it will simply buzz and pass every bump into your joints. Same is true with gun barrels.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

If you use short stiff tubes (welded up) you will not need weights. Use long bent tubes and an end weight dampens down induced harmonics. Brass does it best. A light tube with end weights would work fine. And if the bar is too heavy it will simply buzz and pass every bump into your joints. Same is true with gun barrels.

SHOW us your set of bars that you made

 

[IMFASTTOO]

If you use short stiff tubes (welded up) you will not need weights. Use long bent tubes and an end weight dampens down induced harmonics. Brass does it best. A light tube with end weights would work fine. And if the bar is too heavy it will simply buzz and pass every bump into your joints. Same is true with gun barrels.

YOU can buy various bar end WEIGHTS to dampen the vibes or you can rubber mount the bars as you see on many bikes to solve the vibration issue

 

[barbagris]

SHOW us your set of bars that you made

The Z bars? - pictures are on here somewhere.

 

[barbagris]

YOU can buy various bar end WEIGHTS to dampen the vibes or you can rubber mount the bars as you see on many bikes to solve the vibration issue

Rubber mounts ime tend to reduce steering feedback though. I don't like it at all. The new bars I have on my R3 are a bit flexy for my taste - being long ( 2+2 sweeper 1.00” OD x .834” ID tube). But as they have 3" long solid bar inserts at the tips they are close to vibration free.

The Z bars were short-ish (max 11") double skined stainless with composite bonding. Cast stainless elbows. The end plugs were just plugs. I'll have to hunt them out to take photos. They were way too heavy - No vibration and stunning steering feedback - but eventually age made me sit more upright.

 

[Claviger]

TITANIUM? Custom Titanium Tubing North America - Titanium Joe

This would be my first choice, but there are some significant hurdles. Grade 5 in the quantities and thicknesses I want are a custom order, thus, very expensive. I doubt anyone local here can weld it properly, I've not seen it advertised at all anywhere.

Rob,
Been looking for a long time . . . Where are these being made?
I am very interested, but want my own design as far as width, height, pull back and base width.
1" OK with me as well.

Ill email you the info, I can't speak to the quality of their finished products yet, I'll make sure to let you k now how it comes out.

Interested.... as long as they come instructions on how to switch them out....

I could write up a little post on how to, it'll be quite simple.

YOU can buy various bar end WEIGHTS to dampen the vibes or you can rubber mount the bars as you see on many bikes to solve the vibration issue

Personally don't see the need for end weights on the R3. I switched out to bar end mirrors really early on because its a smooth bike. It doesn't vibrate at all compared to a lot of bikes who's vibration is so bad it makes your hands go numb in 15-20 minutes.

For all interested in bars, I leave for a work trip on Tuesday until mid June, I won't be able to get the templates done until I get back from the trip, so, the earliest the prototype will be done is probably the end of June/begining of July.

Rubber mounts ime tend to reduce steering feedback though. I don't like it at all. The new bars I have on my R3 are a bit flexy for my taste - being long ( 2+2 sweeper 1.00” OD x .834” ID tube). But as they have 3" long solid bar inserts at the tips they are close to vibration free.

The Z bars were short-ish (max 11") double skined stainless with composite bonding. Cast stainless elbows. The end plugs were just plugs. I'll have to hunt them out to take photos. They were way too heavy - No vibration and stunning steering feedback - but eventually age made me sit more upright.

The materials I'm looking at are 4130 in 0.083 or 0.065 or 6063 T52 in 0.125. The Aluminum would need an accelerated aging in an oven afterwards for an hours at 400f to achieve full strength again, something I'll have to see if I can do, not sure if they'll fit in the oven, if not, I'll have to talk tot he powdercoater and see if they can bake them for an hour before coating and baking again at the lower temp they use in the PC process.

 

[barbagris]

Personally don't see the need for end weights on the R3. I switched out to bar end mirrors really early on because its a smooth bike. It doesn't vibrate at all compared to a lot of bikes who's vibration is so bad it makes your hands go numb in 15-20 minutes.

They can buzz a bit. Wait 'til you've run 90mins non-stop at 3200-3500rpms. The last 15-20mins before the tank needs filling can be a rather numbing experience. Also your T-Bars are also more a Short-Stiff tube model bar. The tubes really cannot flex/vibrate much.

I think I must have been lucky - can't think of any bike I've owned that gave me white finger disease in 15minutes. Old Guzzi Lemans maybe - but that was the unbelievably heavy return springs on the carb's - and wrestling with clip-ons - wrist cramp was an issue. Fitting flat bars resolved the issue.

I found the OEM Triumph bars were really un-comfy as the put my wrist at a weird angle. tbh I think that was more of an issue than vibration was. It's certainly why I made the Z bars. But the OEM throttle tube DOES vibrate on the bar - a good 0.5mm all round at the cluster and a lot more at the tip. It's shoddy design - but easily remedied (unless you fit heated grips).

Allow me to persuade you to reduce the end 30mmish of the throttle side of the bar to (say) 22mm - and fit a bearing. I can send you a couple of IGUS bearings that I know fit OEM, Harley and Avon throttle tubes.