Bedifferent
Old man on a bike
I observed that Triumph didn't have to shoehorn the unit in the trapezoid made by the vertical back of the engine block forward, the slope of the rear fender, the backward slant of the left side frame member, and drive shaft below. That said, the space is limited, and putting the new unit on top of the existing bracket didn't fit, and would involve relocating the tip-over switch (which will probably have to be done anyway).
And the existing bracket is welded to the frame, so this will not be a simple unbolt old, bolt in new proposition.
Well @Joesmoe, I removed the canister today. Here is what I used for people who might be interested.
2 Plastic 1/8" barbed connectors
2 1/8" Vacuum caps
1 3/16" barb connector to a 1/4" Male Pipe Thread
1 16-18mmm stainless steel fuel line hose clamp.
I found that the ID of the two vacuum hoses were a snug 1/8". Using anything bigger will cause the hoses and caps to crack over time. I cut the rollover valve line long enough to insert a 3/16" barb fully but still left the part of the hose that originally fit on the bottom rollover valve. In doing so, you can insert a 1/4" pipe thread in the opening that is left in the hose that drops down below from the canister. That hose opening at the top is around 1/2". The 3/16" barb to 1/4" Male Pipe thread worked perfect for hooking things up for the rollover valve and drain tube.
I originally put some teflon tape on the pipe thread, but the tape was so slick it caused the hose to creep down in the tapered 1/4" male pipe thread when the clamp was tightened. Good plan but it didn't work. Clamp directly on the threads as it will hold and seal just fine.
A little tape on the purge connector for now and a few plastic ties and I'm ready to go.
The rectifier will be another issue for fitment. I'll have to figure that out when I get it.