Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR?

[Joesmoe]

@DEcosse the SH847 can go on the same bracket as the OEM one.

The OEM bracket is a rectangular box open at both ends, and in the OEM configuration, the R/R is inside the box, and the tip-over sensor is on top of the box.

I would put the SH847 on top of the box because it is too tall to fit in place of the original, and to do that, and still fit in the space, it would have to be turned sideways, and the OEM harness is not long enough to permit that.

 

[Navigator]

Moved my last post in the other thread to here:

Yes, what I was referring to on cutting into the harness was gathered from posts on VStrom forum and Greywolf was always most helpful. I recall the SH775 discussion as the fix.

I should have spent more time trying to figure out how to do it right but, not doing too well with modern bike electrics, was concerned that I'd goof it. I also recall the discussion of when VStrom upgraded to the series Regulator. I'll have to spend some time on the forum to see if I want to do this with my 09T. I did not realize it was an issue, having read of few failures. The ones with the Strom that I read of were pretty epic because the riders were up on the middle of nowhere and were so screwed. I recall one guy was somewhere up north of Dawson Creek when his went out but another guy we heard of while up there was even worse off. All I had to do was call for a tow when I lost mine about 10 miles from my house. There wasn't even cell service in any of the places we were riding up in the Yukon.

The old Triumphs were just so easy. My 1967 TR6C still has the original 6V ET ignition system in it and has never been a problem.

 

[DEcosse]

Apologies - had missed this reply earlier

The OEM bracket is a rectangular box open at both ends, and in the OEM configuration, the R/R is inside the box, and the tip-over sensor is on top of the box.

I would put the SH847 on top of the box because it is too tall to fit in place of the original, and to do that, and still fit in the space, it would have to be turned sideways, and the OEM harness is not long enough to permit that.

I'm surprised that the harness would not be long enough to accommodate that, given @Mittzy pics in Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR?
But perhaps the Touring is different in that regard, with the available harness length? According to the fiche, the part numbers are the same for the stator for all models.
Is it perhaps possibly how/if it is taped into the main harness?
Maybe some pictures would help of the Touring set-up

 

[Joesmoe]

So he had to do the same thing I did. The harness is too short to mess with the R/R where it is OEM, so to anything with the new R/R it has to be moved forward, and that's what both of us did.

The difference is he is far more capable than I am -- he found a way to hard mount it, and I used Zip ties.

A harness about 30cm longer would allow for easy relocation around the original spot.

 

[DEcosse]

Perhaps @Mittzy could offer brackets

SO do BOTH harnesses (stator and Output) require extension, or just one or other?
The stator is a stand-alone harness, wo you may have more flexibility with that one? (I really don't know, just thinking out loud)
Alternative for output is not to extend from the OEM connector, but just make up new output harness which would go straight to battery (the positive would have Fuse in-line)
However the output harness extender is relatively easy to do, converting the OEM to a 2-way female (since only two terminals are used) mating to a 2-way male on extender and the other end of extender being a std 3-way.
It's the 3-way for stator connector that is more of a pain ....

 

[Joesmoe]

Just the stator . . .

 

[DEcosse]

Just the stator . . .

Of course, it would have to be the difficult one

So again, there is no available 3-terminal MALE Furukawa QLW-250 connector;
so two options really:

1. Two sets of two-way connectors; Remove OEM connector shell from stator harness and replace with TWO Female 2-ways (no need to reterminate the wires, just pop out of old and into new) - of course one position of the 2-ways would be unused); new harness would consist of two male into one 3-way female (save cost on 3-way by re-purposing the OEM on end of harness).
Downside is cost (these connectors are expensive) and bulk of the two connectors instead of one.

2. This might be most reasonable from practical and cost (and space) perspective:
Again, remove the shell from the OEM stator harness; new extender harness will be 3 x male terminals to 3 x female terminals (no shell at either end)
Re-purpose the original shell onto the extender female terminals;
Slide heat-shrink over the individual wires, mate the three males to three OEM females and shrink over.

Either way should be reversible as/if required and either should require no cutting or splicing of wires.

 

[Joesmoe]

At that point, I would go with your recommendation.

 

[Mittzy]

Perhaps @Mittzy could offer brackets

SO do BOTH harnesses (stator and Output) require extension, or just one or other?
The stator is a stand-alone harness, wo you may have more flexibility with that one? (I really don't know, just thinking out loud)
Alternative for output is not to extend from the OEM connector, but just make up new output harness which would go straight to battery (the positive would have Fuse in-line)
However the output harness extender is relatively easy to do, converting the OEM to a 2-way female (since only two terminals are used) mating to a 2-way male on extender and the other end of extender being a std 3-way.
It's the 3-way for stator connector that is more of a pain ....

Not sure if the touring would be the same as roadster

 

[Bedifferent]

Okay Anyone....So is the correct part number??? Looking to order one....

32800-31J00

And this is the place to buy it???...

Partzilla: OEM Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, Marine Parts

Anyone buy a kit from here? More money but has extra wire for locating and connecting

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