Brian Bracken
Brakster
have the correct clutch lever for R3 but it won't actuate clutch switch any one has similar problem
ASV clutch lever not actuating clutch switch
- Thread starter Brian Bracken
- Start date
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
the plunger must be stuck in on the switch try some WD40 to loosen her up. Wayne aka Blue Marlin just had to replace his for that reason and the fact that he lives on the florida coast and had to deal with a lot of corrosion from the salt water.
I just read where your new clutch handle was not contacting the switch so disregard my suggestion until yours starts to stick. The WD40 works also works well on the throttle body return springs and moving components.
I just read where your new clutch handle was not contacting the switch so disregard my suggestion until yours starts to stick. The WD40 works also works well on the throttle body return springs and moving components.
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1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
sonny
Living Legend
I am thinking of some mighty strange tech pix's in relationship to where you can use WD40.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
OK! I finally doped it out.
I had replaced the levers with some cool anodized, multi-adjustable ones.
After disassembling the clutch I discovered a tiny sleeve that pivot bolt runs through was missing.
Although it is only about .050 thick, without it allowed the lever shoulder to pivot outward ever so slightly which failed to close the little button and complete the connection.
As usual, something stupid!
Off to the dyno tomorrow . . . and off to SoCal next Friday!
I had replaced the levers with some cool anodized, multi-adjustable ones.
After disassembling the clutch I discovered a tiny sleeve that pivot bolt runs through was missing.
Although it is only about .050 thick, without it allowed the lever shoulder to pivot outward ever so slightly which failed to close the little button and complete the connection.
As usual, something stupid!
Off to the dyno tomorrow . . . and off to SoCal next Friday!
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Not sure if it's just the way it reads Steve, but to clarify:
The switch MAKES when the plunger is OUT (lever towards the bar) - when the lever is in resting /relaxed position then the plunger is pushed IN and the switch is OPEN in that state
i.e. it's opposite to many switch types in that it is Push-to-break rather than push-to-make.
If you unplug the switch from the perch (and it looks like below) then the switch is closed in this state and bike will start without doing anything; (this is state switch is in with lever pulled)
conversely, press the plunger pin and it will disable the starter. (this is state switch is in with lever relaxed)
Now - although the perch on the R3 is slightly different, the switch is the same as on other models;
what I have found with after-market adjustable levers, where there is less lever travel because of shorter span when lever adjusted to be closer to the bar (short fingers!), the plunger may not open up far enough to make the circuit
- you can usually test this by opening the adjustment to the widest setting (lever furthest from the bar) and see if works like that, but does not as you adjust it closer to the bar
If the above description fits what is happening, the simple fix is just to trim a few mm off the end of the pin; that means the pin will fully extend with a much shorter level travel away from the resting position
The switch MAKES when the plunger is OUT (lever towards the bar) - when the lever is in resting /relaxed position then the plunger is pushed IN and the switch is OPEN in that state
i.e. it's opposite to many switch types in that it is Push-to-break rather than push-to-make.
If you unplug the switch from the perch (and it looks like below) then the switch is closed in this state and bike will start without doing anything; (this is state switch is in with lever pulled)
conversely, press the plunger pin and it will disable the starter. (this is state switch is in with lever relaxed)
Now - although the perch on the R3 is slightly different, the switch is the same as on other models;
what I have found with after-market adjustable levers, where there is less lever travel because of shorter span when lever adjusted to be closer to the bar (short fingers!), the plunger may not open up far enough to make the circuit
- you can usually test this by opening the adjustment to the widest setting (lever furthest from the bar) and see if works like that, but does not as you adjust it closer to the bar
If the above description fits what is happening, the simple fix is just to trim a few mm off the end of the pin; that means the pin will fully extend with a much shorter level travel away from the resting position
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Brian Bracken
Brakster
thats exactly what mine is doing thanks for the advice i was looking at tit the wrong way thinking the lever was not actuating switch not thinking switch plunger was to long cheers
