Another none starter

kipper said:
Just rebuilt the solenoid on my mates 04 with 85000miles on it .He was getting a click most times he pressed the button then it would just fire up. We fitted the kit from Repairkits uk an it fires right up every time. A BIG difference. Easy job.
Click to expand...
 
Just happened across this thread. I developed a cure for this problem a couple of years ago. I have posted a link to the thread. Follow this it should fix your problem.
 
forklift said:
in all my years at the cycle shop anything less than 10 volts we would change out the battery.
Click to expand...

I would tend to agree with you except for one thing. If the battery is good and the starter is starting to fail (shorted windings, binding due to worn bushings) it will draw more current and probably lower the voltage below 10 volts. For this condition, you would be changing the battery for nothing. That's why I never assume but check check check.

I would confirm the voltage across the battery, hit the starter and see what the voltage drops to, noting the condition of the starter while it turns. I would then get an AVR battery load tester and see how many amps I can pull from the battery with the carbon pile resistor pulling the battery down to the same voltage as seen while cranking. If the amperage if up there and the engine isn't cranking right, it's probably a mechanical problem with the starter. Assuming all your connections are good.
 

Baz Hello from Deep South Texas and from another Baize. The fellas on this site provide great guidance, solid advice with the occasional ribbing or leg pulling. Best of luck with the starting issue. Don't forget the run switch which catches me when others use it since I don't. Day late and a dollar short! Sorry no help.

Johnny B.
 
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I had some extra time so i decided to run the voltage drop. so the multi meter from neg bat to long bolts on the starter. meter set on 20 volts the meter read .42 volts.
i then installed my extra neg. ground wire from the battery to the starter mount bolt and then repeated the test. the meter read .14 volts.
i don't know what to say about improvement maybe some of the other guys might chime in and i will try it for a while to see if i can notice a physical difference.
also if you had more on the voltage drop it should make more of a difference.
 
[ QUOTE="Gregger, post: 302704, member: 4953"]I would tend to agree with you except for one thing. If the battery is good and the starter is starting to fail (shorted windings, binding due to worn bushings) it will draw more current and probably lower the voltage below 10 volts. For this condition, you would be changing the battery for nothing. That's why I never assume but check check check.

I would confirm the voltage across the battery, hit the starter and see what the voltage drops to, noting the condition of the starter while it turns. I would then get an AVR battery load tester and see how many amps I can pull from the battery with the carbon pile resistor pulling the battery down to the same voltage as seen while cranking. If the amperage if up there and the engine isn't cranking right, it's probably a mechanical problem with the starter. Assuming all your connections are good.[/QUOTE]
You're absolutely right I guess the problem was I work so many years at a Suzuki shop that the starters were rarely problems. we had plenty of problems with charging systems but the starters were kind of bullet proof. I guess different brands have different quirks.
 
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