Bear in mind that running - the voltage is NOT 12V it's over 13 for certain and may be close to 14.
Stock headlights draw 120W on Main beam (60 x2). So 90W should be no problem. IN THEORY.
You must be careful when considering the current/voltage/wattage numbers:
The 'nominal' wattage rating of a bulb is at a 'nominal' 12.0V to give 55/60W - but the operating voltage, as
@barbagris suggests is really higher - this depends on the efficiency of the wiring system;
I would doubt any OEM wiring system would come anywhere near to 14V at the lamp itself and in most cases, probably below 13.
But with a relay kit and better gauge wiring it can certainly approach battery voltage (in running mode) which MIGHT be ~ 14V
What some don't realize is that, the power is not constant - it is only 55W/60W at the nominal 12.0V rating
When the voltage is higher, the lights will be brighter - and they will consume a higher current and dissipate a higher power.
Take the 60W filament for ease of arithmetic - P = V*I or V^2/R or I^2*R (R=V/I)
Solving for R, that means R = 2.4 ohms (check: P= 12*12/2.4 = 60)
If Voltage is increased to 13V, then actual P = 13*13/2.4=70.4W - and similarly then current is going to be increased from 5A to 5.4A
But one reason many of us add relays into stock wiring is to reduce electrical resistance and reduce load on the switchgear.
I also reduces the load on the IGNITION switch - which is a known weak spot..
Important to recognize that the Headlight current does NOT go through the key-switch on an 'R' - only on the pre-Roadster (and Touring)
However it DOES all go through the headlight switch gear i.e. the left bar switch and it's connectors.