2011 R3R won't crank. Solenoid? Starter button?

based on what u said about the starter button
i would say either starter button or starter relay.
sometimes these starter relay gets corroded on the inside contacts and sometimes the rubber support breaks and the relay hangs upside down and fills with water. they r cheap from triumph so i would replace. right side cover 5 prong relay
 
thanks @TURBO200R4 will try that. One thing I would like to check though, is the 2011 R3R susceptible to that defect in the ignition switch where you should bypass the lights with the Eager Beaver or whatever it is called? Not that I think it is that in this issue, but might be something worth doing to save me being stranded somewhere.
 
I'd be thinking about a new battery. 7 years old is gettin on a bit and the weather is still a bit cold which won't help starting.
 
On on the Eastern Beaver, even after you discover and resolve the issue, yes, install the EB headlight relay kit.

On the battery, agree with Kipper. That's pretty old for a motorcycle battery. And another suggestion was the kickstand switch. Those can be cause intermittent problem on any bike that has one. They are down there in the road muck. I use a good dielectric spray to clean and then dielectric grease before reconnecting.
 
all the above is good advise but try this- with the ignition on in neutral bold the clutch in with kill switch in the ON position (gauges sweep) push the starter button (all this is as you know standard procedure) also turn the bars from left to right quickly as this has worked for me in the past, must have been a poor connection in the plug from the wiring harness or fractured wire from the starter button.
Also if the battery does not have enough power I it the ECU won’t let it start - try jump starting from a car.
Hope this helps
 
The plot thickens.. Intermittent issue with speedo not sweeping/lighting up/working at all, Rev counter still works fine along with intermittent nothing happening at all when pressing the starter button. Maybe it is a plug in the headstock wiring loom after all. Right bout the battery mind, 7 years is a good innings and I should look at a replacement so I don't get stranded somewhere.
 
On the eastern beaver front though, it would appear that 2011 and on models have a relay already fitted for the headlight, so the power does not run through the ignition switch, making it not required. I'm not trying to achieve any more light, just not burn out any switches or ignition barrel.
 
Thanks all, will try the tips out and let you know how I get on. The battery is original, so getting on for 7 years old now but seems strong. Will try jump starting it off powerful SUV battery. If it is still hesitant to crank and I have to jab the button several times, then it should rule out the battery.

The chances of your battery being good is like saying Holland will win the 2018 World Cup, do not be like our Fred replace the battery it is way past its effective life.:D
 
Thanks all, will try the tips out and let you know how I get on. The battery is original, so getting on for 7 years old now but seems strong. Will try jump starting it off powerful SUV battery. If it is still hesitant to crank and I have to jab the button several times, then it should rule out the battery.

OMG...A 7 year old battery and you are wondering why it is having a problem startng.
Just because it shows a full charge doesn't mean it's any good. It may not be able to deliver enough amps to crank it properly. Starving any electrical motor of proper amperage can damage it as well. It's just like running a high amp power tool on too small a gage extension cord. Get a new battery and check your connection before wasting your time on anything else.
 
I had a similar problem - Press the starter and there is about 1/2 second hesitation before it cranks.
My batter was also 7 years old and showing a full charge, but was not serviceable any more.
I replaced the battery and no more hesitation.
I also chose to get a battery with more CCA's than the standard one- I got a
Yuasa YUAM620BH YTX20HL-BS Battery - it has 320 CCA instead of 270 or 280 that the regular Yuasa had, and it is exactly the same size.(cant remember) .
I paid less than $90 on Amazon.
 
Back
Top