2005 STALLING, NO ECM DATA WHEN RUNNING. UPDATED

[kcc11]

A cool wire is any wire on my bike that is not trying to melt a fuse. Which are getting hard to come by. I took cool wires to be a spark plugs wire? Checked all vacuum hoses and we're good.

 

[kcc11]

Just a update. Ordered some used parts from odlidle on ebay. Main wiring harness, injector sub-harness, gauge sub-harness, all relays, coils and ignition wires and MAP, O2, and roll osensors. Got the main harness and gauge sub-harness, coils and wires. Received ECUtune cable and was able to read data using my phone. Motor started and ran fine. Had data the whole time. Voltage showing high at times in ECUtune, 15.0 to 16.0 volts. Volt meter showing 14.0 to 14.5 at the battery. I would call it good. BUT. The Positive and negative wires from the voltage regulator are getting warm. The positive does go down after the battery gets recharged but the negative wires is still to hot for my liking. Amps going though positive is anywhere from 13 to 21 amps. No headlights on yet. Still have the relays unconnected. The cooling fan is about 6 amps, fuel pump is 3 to 5 amps and the rest is the ECU and parking lights. Is this ok?? I know with the headlights on it will add about 10 amps. Running old school H4 bulbs. Also I am using a low amp probe and multi meter.

The way Triumph wired this thing is very simple and could use a few improvement has we know. The negative wire has all grounds connected to it and then it goes to the battery on the left side and plugs into the battery cable. OK, it is easy, but the wire is on the small size. The voltage regulator negative wire taps into the same wire?? The positive is wired the same way. It dose not go though fuse number 10 for the charging. Good thing. But again is the wire big enough?? For over 15 years no problem. Now that I have it torn apart, I'm not to sure. Any thoughts or info would be great. Still putting it back together when I have time.

Thinking about adding a larger gauge wire from the regulator to the battery with the OEM wiring. I am thinking a larger wire can carry more of a load and would not heat up has much. Still testing and trying to get the amps lower.

 

[Kevin frazier]

I ran a negative from rectifier to battery and added 30amp maxi fuse on that ground, so far so good, it would melt the standard fuse.

 

[sleeves]

Gday

I haven't been posting for a while on the forum but I have two 05 R3's and I'm pretty certain the wiring doesn't get hot on the charging circuit. I am wondering if either the regulator is not operating correctly? maybe not dumping excess current, the stock regulator/rectifier dumps the excess back to the alternator. I have changed mine for another unit from a Suzuki that switches to try and prevent cooking the alternator (there's posts re this on the forum).

Also wondering if it may not be the battery itself, I have had dodgy batteries in cars do odd thing over the years.

Apart from the ignition switch having the lights routed through it without a relay the wiring looms seem pretty well built is all and a short drawing current would just blow fuses instantly rather than heating up.

Have you got a copy of the wiring loom in colour. I have one that's useful for any fault finding?

 

[skydog1000]

Ok so you say you checked the coil wires and vacuum lines. This is what I have done too 1 05 and 2 06 models to fix this same problem. Crimp the coil wires to assure they were tight the front one is a pain in back to get to. Go to Amazon and order 2 mm and 6mm silacon vacuum lines and change all the vacuum lines and caps. This is what I would do first. Some times it's the Small stuff that is the problem even though it looks like a big problem.