Thank You Mr. Penner

atomsplitter said:

Not sure what you're after by "delete line items." The file should be ready to load as is. And to the point of Protonhound's comment, I used a battery charger and monitored my voltage with my USB adapter plug I bought from Amazon. After uploading the file be sure to disconnect the OBDLink and give a few seconds for the ECU to acquire your fob again. You should be all set.

Amazon.com

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I'm glad the charger worked for you and apparently others as well. I just rather follow the instructions as laid out by the people who created the tool I'm using and eliminate any possibly detrimental variables.

Hi, I've been looking into tuning my GT 2020 model and was talking with TTS Tuning in England and he builds some stonking supercharged Rockets and he advised me not to bother with the DNA filter as the standard Triumph filter is still flowing enough for over 300bhp. Interested if anyone with as much experience and Dyno time as them has any Dyno figures prove the DNA filter is worth it.
P.S. I'm just looking to release what Triumph never gave us, with a Zard can and maybe some custom headers but they need to follow the factory style because I love the look of those headers.

Ade744 said:

Hi, I've been looking into tuning my GT 2020 model and was talking with TTS Tuning in England and he builds some stonking supercharged Rockets and he advised me not to bother with the DNA filter as the standard Triumph filter is still flowing enough for over 300bhp. Interested if anyone with as much experience and Dyno time as them has any Dyno figures prove the DNA filter is worth it.
P.S. I'm just looking to release what Triumph never gave us, with a Zard can and maybe some custom headers but they need to follow the factory style because I love the look of those headers.

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I agree.
The real intake restriction is hardly ever the filter.
It is a nice to have, but don´t expect any gains worth to mention with just a filter change.

Penner said:

I agree.
The real intake restriction is hardly ever the filter.
It is a nice to have, but don´t expect any gains worth to mention with just a filter change.

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Hi, If I was replacing the filter in a service would the DNA filter be worth getting instead of a standard Triumph filter. P.S. Does anyone else make a high flow filter for the 2.5's? I've spoken to K&N over here in the UK but they have no plans to make one (not enough demand).

So with the beast making 190hp at the crank with the tune what hp does that translate to at the wheel?

Ade744 said:

Hi, If I was replacing the filter in a service would the DNA filter be worth getting instead of a standard Triumph filter. P.S. Does anyone else make a high flow filter for the 2.5's? I've spoken to K&N over here in the UK but they have no plans to make one (not enough demand).

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I think short answer is no. The filter's airflow when new doesn't add any ponies regardless of brand or type. Your bike would run the same with no air filter installed (until enough damage was done to affect the engine compression). You can throw any numbers on a filter ad and it's difficult to impossible to prove it doesn't do what they claim because air is colorless and odorless. If I said I made an air filter that flows 50% more air with better filtration than a paper filter, that would be at the upper limit of dP across the filter and the only way to get that kind of pressure on the outside of the filter is with a blower of some type taking suction on the filter. Atmospheric pressure is at maximum at sea level (low tide) on the water's surface and can only get less from there as you add altitude. Assuming you aren't trying to snorkel your bike in the Marianna Trench it will never flow more air using one type of filter vs. another (I'm excluding HEPA filtration here). The real advantage of any gauze filter is they are washable, meaning it's no longer a consumable air filter. The air flow claims on the package don't describe how it works on your bike.

Protonhound said:

So with the beast making 190hp at the crank with the tune what hp does that translate to at the wheel?

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Average loss between crank and RW is 15% to 18%. So, based on worst case scenario the MINIMUM RWP should be near 156 HP on the dyno.

atomsplitter said:

Not sure what you're after by "delete line items." The file should be ready to load as is. And to the point of Protonhound's comment, I used a battery charger and monitored my voltage with my USB adapter plug I bought from Amazon. After uploading the file be sure to disconnect the OBDLink and give a few seconds for the ECU to acquire your fob again. You should be all set.

Amazon.com

Click to expand...

Guys I know how to use TuneECU to do maintinance, adjust tunes and download the tunes while using a battery charger and pulling a fuse to maintain voltage. What I dont know how to do is delete tunes either in the download file or in my saved tunes files. I have several tunes I don't need anymore and would like to delete them.

Quantas Dinero please.
How much to purchase ?

atomsplitter said:

Average loss between crank and RW is 15% to 18%. So, based on worst case scenario the MINIMUM RWP should be near 156 HP on the dyno.

Click to expand...

Red line is with the Viking headers/exhaust.