Thank You Mr. Penner

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:
I downloaded it in my tablet but I don't know how to transfer it into TuneECU. I see you say download it through TuneECU. I don't know how to do that.
Would you please do a step by step for me and the folks like me ? Thanks.
Click to expand...
When I say "click" that may also mean "tap the screen" depending on what Android device you're using. When you downloaded the file it's in your "downloads" folder (typically). To navigate to that file open TuneECU and click on "Map" on one of the pages that has that in the dropdown box upper right corner. The dialog box opens with a list of option: Open, Compare, ImportPCIII, etc . Click "Open" and a dialog box will open with the words Parent Directory and an arrow on top (there will also be a file under that with the currently loaded file open in TuneECU). Click the ARROW and it will open a new folder, click it again it will open another folder. Keep clicking until you get to your downloads and see the file you downloaded with the name "Unrestricted-Rocket-GT-USA-From-VIN-AV5457-31249Map." Then click that folder and it will open that file in TuneECU and you're ready to now upload to your bike. Remember that once you reprogram your ECU with this new tune you lose your cruise control function until you do a 'switch check' procedure. Once you complete that procedure the cruise control will work again. Let us know if you have any problems getting it uploaded.

Note: when I did this, I pulled the 7.5 amp headlight fuse and connected a battery charger to the bike because the upload takes 20 plus minutes and has to have 12.8 VDC while programming.

Good Luck Idaho
 
Ward said:
You need to install the DNA air filter as well, gives 30% more air flow (and therefor more fueling), and LOTS more smiles per mile. Unfortunately I fitted the air filter as well as installing Mr Penner's wonderful map at the same time (during a service) and therefore got two lots of jollies at the same time and can't quite attribute how many smiles came from each. Both lots at the same time however create a serious case of "Permagrin" 🤣🤣🤣
Click to expand...
I've had the tune for over a year now and been hesitant to install the dna filter. I might be wrong but oil membrane filters were designed for easy maintenance in off road racing but let through more particles than paper ones. Also having to remove the tank to maintain the thing seems like a chore.
 
Protonhound said:
I've had the tune for over a year now and been hesitant to install the dna filter. I might be wrong but oil membrane filters were designed for easy maintenance in off road racing but let through more particles than paper ones. Also having to remove the tank to maintain the thing seems like a chore.
Click to expand...
You're correct about the original application of gauze filters. Another common misconception is they improve air flow to the combustion chamber dramatically. They are less restrictive but the air flow into the combustion chamber is determined by the exhaust system, not intake. Reducing the dP of the intake filter slightly alters the air charge since it takes less suction to fill the chamber, but the suction is determined by the piston stroke and exhaust system eduction effect at the collector. As exhaust gas goes down the pipe it gets to the collector which is a volume expansion in the system. The rapidly increasing volume causes the gasses to accelerate reducing the back-pressure to the combustion chamber. At that point the exhaust valve is fully open and the intake valve begins to open. As the intake opens the rapidly lowering pressure in the collector creates a vacuum effect since it's lower than atmospheric pressure with rapidly expanding exhaust gas, drawing fresh air in as the piston begins its downward intake stroke. The intent of this type engineering is to remove as much spent fuel gasses as possible and add fresh air for the next combustion stroke. If there were no eduction in the collector, then spent gasses would remain in the combustion chamber when the intake valve opens and chamber pressure reaches 14.7 psia (atmospheric pressure) from exhaust back pressure. Any gain from lower dP filters is really negligible to the overall system efficiency.

Another key aspect of filtration is that the more the filter loads the more efficient at removing particulate it becomes. As material is deposited on the filter media it creates a mat that filters particulate before it gets to the media to be trapped. The only drawback is that when the filter is at its maximum efficiency the airflow becomes restricted. Restrict it enough and the filter collapses under the stress of piston suction negative pressure, allowing unfiltered air into the system. So, when it comes to your air filter, whether paper or cotton gauze, some loading is better than no loading, i.e. it works better at removing the bad stuff when it's a bit dirty than absolutely clean (or new).
 
atomsplitter said:
You're correct about the original application of gauze filters. Another common misconception is they improve air flow to the combustion chamber dramatically. They are less restrictive but the air flow into the combustion chamber is determined by the exhaust system, not intake. Reducing the dP of the intake filter slightly alters the air charge since it takes less suction to fill the chamber, but the suction is determined by the piston stroke and exhaust system eduction effect at the collector. As exhaust gas goes down the pipe it gets to the collector which is a volume expansion in the system. The rapidly increasing volume causes the gasses to accelerate reducing the back-pressure to the combustion chamber. At that point the exhaust valve is fully open and the intake valve begins to open. As the intake opens the rapidly lowering pressure in the collector creates a vacuum effect since it's lower than atmospheric pressure with rapidly expanding exhaust gas, drawing fresh air in as the piston begins its downward intake stroke. The intent of this type engineering is to remove as much spent fuel gasses as possible and add fresh air for the next combustion stroke. If there were no eduction in the collector, then spent gasses would remain in the combustion chamber when the intake valve opens and chamber pressure reaches 14.7 psia (atmospheric pressure) from exhaust back pressure. Any gain from lower dP filters is really negligible to the overall system efficiency.

Another key aspect of filtration is that the more the filter loads the more efficient at removing particulate it becomes. As material is deposited on the filter media it creates a mat that filters particulate before it gets to the media to be trapped. The only drawback is that when the filter is at its maximum efficiency the airflow becomes restricted. Restrict it enough and the filter collapses under the stress of piston suction negative pressure, allowing unfiltered air into the system. So, when it comes to your air filter, whether paper or cotton gauze, some loading is better than no loading, i.e. it works better at removing the bad stuff when it's a bit dirty than absolutely clean (or new).
Click to expand...
That's helpful thanks. I have the standard Vandemon slip-on installed for sound and looks with stock headers which I'm keeping. I flashed the tune mainly to remove the throttle restrictions and am not looking for max performance. However it sounds like the dna filter might help things run more efficiently and if that’s the case then I'll try it as long as I don't have to remove my tank constantly to maintain it.
 
Protonhound said:
That's helpful thanks. I have the standard Vandemon slip-on installed for sound and looks with stock headers which I'm keeping. I flashed the tune mainly to remove the throttle restrictions and am not looking for max performance. However it sounds like the dna filter might help things run more efficiently and if that’s the case then I'll try it as long as I don't have to remove my tank constantly to maintain it.
Click to expand...
Any washable filter can go a long time between cleanings. Set your calendar for two or three years unless you drive only on gravel or dirt roads.
 
The flashing procedure is actually pretty simple once you get to that point. I probably read through the tuneecu website 5 times to make sure I understood what it entails. The mountain of information there may be daunting but once reduced to what matters it's not bad at all. As knowledgeable as people here are I wouldn't trust following scattered instructions in this forum when it comes to the ecu. A perfect example is the use of a battery charger to maintain voltage which the site specifically says not to do as there is a small chance of the charging cycle kicking in below the minimum voltage so I used a charged car battery as they suggest. It's the only way to know you're doing it right and if things go sideways you only have yourself to blame.
 

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