DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Mine - it is actually enabled when the (hands-free) remote off my keyless is within range so doesn't actually need the ignition to be on; and of course is inactive when remote not present.
Kojack1970
Turbocharged
- Joined
- May 3, 2018
- Messages
- 754
- Location
- South Grafton, MA, 01560
- Ride
- 2016 Rocket Roadster and 2000 HD Fatboy
dang, that's pretty sexy!
Stillserving
LET'S GO BRANDON
Now I remember why I put this on the back burner. Trying to find a fairly cheap, readily available, fairly small solenoid. Can't seem to find the one @DEcosse used on his Daytona from a Volvo S40. There are some VERY cheap door lock actuators I may have to buy some to play with. Only problem is they usually don't return so once they unlock, they stay until "locked". If anyone finds something, share.
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Most unfortunately do not return without a reverse voltage (which is not practical to implement);
so you need a spring to make it return; my seat latch of course has it's own built-in spring so it correspondingly works in reverse to push the cable and hence the plunger at the solenoid end back to it's starting position
so you need a spring to make it return; my seat latch of course has it's own built-in spring so it correspondingly works in reverse to push the cable and hence the plunger at the solenoid end back to it's starting position
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
You saying the brown parachute cord hanging out from under IDK's seat wasn't classy?
He thought that brown chord was attached to an "inner" thingy he did not wish to remove!!
It was actually a black bootlace. Not sure what @Steel did to make it brown, and not sure that I want to know.He thought that brown chord was attached to an "inner" thingy he did not wish to remove!!
Stillserving
LET'S GO BRANDON
A return spring was my thinking also. If that's happening with your setup also, then I'm thinking the door lock solenoids may work. Might just buy a cheap pair for experimentation purposes.
Steel
Resident Coonass
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2012
- Messages
- 7,849
- Location
- Cut Off, Louisiana USA
- Ride
- 2012 Roadster & 2006 Classic
I thought it was for the passenger ejection seatHe thought that brown chord was attached to an "inner" thingy he did not wish to remove!!
Stillserving
LET'S GO BRANDON
So, I started the preliminary "keyless seat release mod" this afternoon. Please keep in mind this was the preliminary setup to see how things fit. Everything was temporarily setup and then i removed it all when I was done testing so I could make a few parts and still be able to ride - PRIORITIES MAN! I still need to get a switch and figure out where I want to put it, then finish fabbing up the setup. Here are a few pics:
I started with getting this from Amazon :
2 pack of door lock actuators -
I then took one of them apart for 2 reasons.
1 - Just because I like seeing what make things tic
2 - To see if I could shorten up the housing and make it a little more compact (turned out to be too much hassle and not worth it to make it smaller).
I took off my right side cover to see how much real estate was left in there since that's where my keyless ignition module is located and I also have some wiring/connectors in there for the aux brake lights and turn signal LED strips I added to inconspicuous locations on the saddle bags. I zip tied the actuator in place to make sure the side cover would still fit back on with all that crap stuffed in there:
Now that I know it'll fit, I attached a piece of .032 stainless safety wire that I had to the actuator arm and ran it up mirroring the stock release cable as much as possible (temporarily zip tied to the stock cable). I had to zip tie it tight enough to keep it from flexing all over when actuated, yet loose enough to allow it to move freely back and forth. At the actual seat release, there is enough room to thread the small wire into the same hole/slit that the stock cable attaches to.
After that, I attached the + wire directly to the battery (just twisted it on for research purposes) and left the ground wire where I could get to it from outside w/ the seat on. For testing, I just grounded that wire to the foot pegs to trigger the actuator. Put the seat on, quick tap of the ground wire and pop, the seat would release! Now, It doesn't jump up like Decosse's does - it's almost unnoticeable. Tested it about twenty times just to make sure it was repeatable and I liked the actuation (had to play with the "release cable" that was rigged to get it to the right tension).
Once I find a switch that I like, I'll get it on order and do the actual install.
In prep for the final install, I took some small spacers that I had and put some heatshrink on the outside and then put two larger pieces of heatshrink at the ends to make "shoulders" for the zipties to sit in between so they would provide a more secure hold on them. I also sourced some small, fairly stiff poly type tubing that I had lying around to use as an outer jacket for the wire. I think I'm also going to press a small piece of one of the spacers into the plastic eye of the actuator since i don't trust the plastic over the long haul and think it'll make it more robust, I'll mod the sacrificial one and see how I like it.
The actuator pictured above and used for the temp install was taped back together as it became sacrificial once I cut it open. The final install, I will use the virgin one and coat all the seams and other areas w/ liquid electrical tape for waterproofing.
Initial test looked promising. The actuator actually "bounced" back only using the stock spring located at the seat latch as a return spring, but I'm going to install a better spring on the shaft under the rubber boot once I find something I like.
I also decided NOT to completely replace /get rid of the stock keyed release for the simple fact that if the battery ever dies, while I CAN get to my hardwired battery tender plug w/out removing the seat to charge the battery, a quick jump would be impossible as no power, means no powered seat release!!!
I started with getting this from Amazon :
2 pack of door lock actuators -
I then took one of them apart for 2 reasons.
1 - Just because I like seeing what make things tic
2 - To see if I could shorten up the housing and make it a little more compact (turned out to be too much hassle and not worth it to make it smaller).
I took off my right side cover to see how much real estate was left in there since that's where my keyless ignition module is located and I also have some wiring/connectors in there for the aux brake lights and turn signal LED strips I added to inconspicuous locations on the saddle bags. I zip tied the actuator in place to make sure the side cover would still fit back on with all that crap stuffed in there:
Now that I know it'll fit, I attached a piece of .032 stainless safety wire that I had to the actuator arm and ran it up mirroring the stock release cable as much as possible (temporarily zip tied to the stock cable). I had to zip tie it tight enough to keep it from flexing all over when actuated, yet loose enough to allow it to move freely back and forth. At the actual seat release, there is enough room to thread the small wire into the same hole/slit that the stock cable attaches to.
After that, I attached the + wire directly to the battery (just twisted it on for research purposes) and left the ground wire where I could get to it from outside w/ the seat on. For testing, I just grounded that wire to the foot pegs to trigger the actuator. Put the seat on, quick tap of the ground wire and pop, the seat would release! Now, It doesn't jump up like Decosse's does - it's almost unnoticeable. Tested it about twenty times just to make sure it was repeatable and I liked the actuation (had to play with the "release cable" that was rigged to get it to the right tension).
Once I find a switch that I like, I'll get it on order and do the actual install.
In prep for the final install, I took some small spacers that I had and put some heatshrink on the outside and then put two larger pieces of heatshrink at the ends to make "shoulders" for the zipties to sit in between so they would provide a more secure hold on them. I also sourced some small, fairly stiff poly type tubing that I had lying around to use as an outer jacket for the wire. I think I'm also going to press a small piece of one of the spacers into the plastic eye of the actuator since i don't trust the plastic over the long haul and think it'll make it more robust, I'll mod the sacrificial one and see how I like it.
The actuator pictured above and used for the temp install was taped back together as it became sacrificial once I cut it open. The final install, I will use the virgin one and coat all the seams and other areas w/ liquid electrical tape for waterproofing.
Initial test looked promising. The actuator actually "bounced" back only using the stock spring located at the seat latch as a return spring, but I'm going to install a better spring on the shaft under the rubber boot once I find something I like.
I also decided NOT to completely replace /get rid of the stock keyed release for the simple fact that if the battery ever dies, while I CAN get to my hardwired battery tender plug w/out removing the seat to charge the battery, a quick jump would be impossible as no power, means no powered seat release!!!
Bull
.060 Over
So, I started the preliminary "keyless seat release mod" this afternoon. Please keep in mind this was the preliminary setup to see how things fit. Everything was temporarily setup and then i removed it all when I was done testing so I could make a few parts and still be able to ride - PRIORITIES MAN! I still need to get a switch and figure out where I want to put it, then finish fabbing up the setup. Here are a few pics:
I started with getting this from Amazon :
2 pack of door lock actuators -
I then took one of them apart for 2 reasons.
1 - Just because I like seeing what make things tic
2 - To see if I could shorten up the housing and make it a little more compact (turned out to be too much hassle and not worth it to make it smaller).
I took off my right side cover to see how much real estate was left in there since that's where my keyless ignition module is located and I also have some wiring/connectors in there for the aux brake lights and turn signal LED strips I added to inconspicuous locations on the saddle bags. I zip tied the actuator in place to make sure the side cover would still fit back on with all that crap stuffed in there:
Now that I know it'll fit, I attached a piece of .032 stainless safety wire that I had to the actuator arm and ran it up mirroring the stock release cable as much as possible (temporarily zip tied to the stock cable). I had to zip tie it tight enough to keep it from flexing all over when actuated, yet loose enough to allow it to move freely back and forth. At the actual seat release, there is enough room to thread the small wire into the same hole/slit that the stock cable attaches to.
After that, I attached the + wire directly to the battery (just twisted it on for research purposes) and left the ground wire where I could get to it from outside w/ the seat on. For testing, I just grounded that wire to the foot pegs to trigger the actuator. Put the seat on, quick tap of the ground wire and pop, the seat would release! Now, It doesn't jump up like Decosse's does - it's almost unnoticeable. Tested it about twenty times just to make sure it was repeatable and I liked the actuation (had to play with the "release cable" that was rigged to get it to the right tension).
Once I find a switch that I like, I'll get it on order and do the actual install.
In prep for the final install, I took some small spacers that I had and put some heatshrink on the outside and then put two larger pieces of heatshrink at the ends to make "shoulders" for the zipties to sit in between so they would provide a more secure hold on them. I also sourced some small, fairly stiff poly type tubing that I had lying around to use as an outer jacket for the wire. I think I'm also going to press a small piece of one of the spacers into the plastic eye of the actuator since i don't trust the plastic over the long haul and think it'll make it more robust, I'll mod the sacrificial one and see how I like it.
The actuator pictured above and used for the temp install was taped back together as it became sacrificial once I cut it open. The final install, I will use the virgin one and coat all the seams and other areas w/ liquid electrical tape for waterproofing.
Initial test looked promising. The actuator actually "bounced" back only using the stock spring located at the seat latch as a return spring, but I'm going to install a better spring on the shaft under the rubber boot once I find something I like.
I also decided NOT to completely replace /get rid of the stock keyed release for the simple fact that if the battery ever dies, while I CAN get to my hardwired battery tender plug w/out removing the seat to charge the battery, a quick jump would be impossible as no power, means no powered seat release!!!
This is amazing! When you have a final design for us less knowledgable please let me know. Hurry, I've taken to restoring antique furniture and if I don't find other things to do I'll have to start on my wife's renovation list and no-one wants that!
Similar threads
