What did you find when you adjusted your valves.

[EasTexRIII]

The valve check needs to be done at the prescribed intervals. Sometimes a valve out of adjustment will not make a ticking noise. (EXHAUST)

Yes, because the ticking noise is from loose valves - But on these motors the tolerances will usually tighten, as Rocket Scientist said, when the valves seat deeper into the valve seat from the face of the valve wearing, which causes the top of the stem to move closer to the shim, and that will not make the clicking sound when they become tighter - So the best way to find out if they need shimming is with feeler gauge as Sonny said.

 

[Triple Trouble]

The valve check needs to be done at the prescribed intervals. Sometimes a valve out of adjustment will not make a ticking noise. (EXHAUST)

More often than not, on modern engines, the valve gap closes up rather than get noisy. In extreme cases this can lead to the valve not closing fully and burning the valve.

 

[ZoneIII]

Thanks, everyone. These responses are consistent with what I heard in the past. As pointed out, with this type of valve train, no valve clicking doesn't mean they don't need adjustment. In fact, loose valve clearances are bad but tight valves are far worse.

When I do the job, I'll be curious to see how the special tool I have works. It reportedly allows you to replace the shims without removing the cams. I researched the tool before ordering it and reports were good from those that used it but we'll see. I actually had to have it special made for me because the guy who makes them hadn't been making them for a while. When I posted about this tool previously here, someone else showed a picture of an even simpler tool that anyone could make. Luckily, I saved pictures of that tool. It's just a long screwdriver with the tip ground to an angle and a little plate. If I had seen that before I ordered my special tool, I would have saved my money and just made that tool (assuming it works). If I remember correctly, the special tool I had machined cost $175. Attached is a low-resolution picture of the tool I bought (I should take a higher-res picture) and also one of the other tool I mentioned.

Again, thanks for the responses.

 

[1olbull]

More often than not, on modern engines, the valve gap closes up rather than get noisy. In extreme cases this can lead to the valve not closing fully and burning the valve.

Gratitude for the dope ya'all!

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Thanks, everyone. These responses are consistent with what I heard in the past. As pointed out, with this type of valve train, no valve clicking doesn't mean they don't need adjustment. In fact, loose valve clearances are bad but tight valves are far worse.

When I do the job, I'll be curious to see how the special tool I have works. It reportedly allows you to replace the shims without removing the cams. I researched the tool before ordering it and reports were good from those that used it but we'll see. I actually had to have it special made for me because the guy who makes them hadn't been making them for a while. When I posted about this tool previously here, someone else showed a picture of an even simpler tool that anyone could make. Luckily, I saved pictures of that tool. It's just a long screwdriver with the tip ground to an angle and a little plate. If I had seen that before I ordered my special tool, I would have saved my money and just made that tool (assuming it works). If I remember correctly, the special tool I had machined cost $175. Attached is a low-resolution picture of the tool I bought (I should take a higher-res picture) and also one of the other tool I mentioned.

Again, thanks for the responses.

Not yours, but the other tool you pictured is really two separate tools. The screwdriver version requires two people to operate I'm told. The other one is explained in this posting. Valve shim removal tool

 

[Joesmoe]

Silly question: what feeler gauges do y'all recommend for a Rocket owner (vs something fancy for a shop) ?

 

[Rocket Scientist]

It's hard to find true "metric" feeler gauges that don't cost an arm and a leg. Most of what you find are "combo" sets. They are "standard" feeler gauges with metric measurements also. The problem is the metric numbers are just conversions of the standard sizes. So they aren't like .1, .15, .2 mm, they are like .137, all uneven numbers, so it makes them hard to use.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

I just looked on eat-me-bay. Looks like they have metric's for cheap. I know back when I got mine, I couldn't find any metric only sets locally.

 

[warp9.9]

I never gave that much thought. Being a tool maker I just reacjed in the tool nox and grabbed a set. Doesn't matter if you only have SAE just convert the metric clearance to SAE. Metric only matters when it vomes to pecker size. 6×25.4 looks to be a bigger number

 

[Rocket Scientist]

I used to use the conversion method then my former place of employment bought us some very pricy metric feeler gauges right before I told them to pack sand in their arse.

 

[Joesmoe]

What about something from here ?

McMaster-Carr