Want to add a Steering Damper.

[Claviger]

I run 41/41, like it much better than split with front lower.

 

[1olbull]

Too much pressure in the front tire decreases its ability to handle irregularities on the pavement when hooning the twisties - IMHO.
I have felt the front slip many times and find the sphincter puckering phenomenon reduced to acceptable levels when maintaining pressure of 38 lbs or slightly less.
I do run 40 - 42 lbs in the rear tire.

 

[barbagris]

Too much pressure in the front tire decreases its ability to handle irregularities on the pavement when hooning the twisties - IMHO.
I have felt the front slip many times and find the sphincter puckering phenomenon reduced to acceptable levels when maintaining pressure of 38 lbs or slightly less.
I do run 40 - 42 lbs in the rear tire.

Depends on so many factors. Ambient temps, how much additional heat you're feeding in - how the carcass copes with heating up and heat retention, road surface, load as proportion of max load.

And let's face it DECENT front suspension makes a difference. At lower pressures the rubber is performing a damping function that good suspension would do better.

 

[1olbull]

Depends on so many factors. Ambient temps, how much additional heat you're feeding in - how the carcass copes with heating up and heat retention, road surface, load as proportion of max load. And let's face it DECENT front suspension makes a difference. At lower pressures the rubber is performing a damping function that good suspension would do better.

I do not disagree with what you have stated, Amigo.
However, you are sort of picking the fly $hit out of the pepper with minutia more practical for the race track rather than for a bloke just going for a ride on some public roadways, which are not "groomed" and provide a cornucopia of variable surfaces. Me thinks a tad too much pressure is more risky than a tad too little.

 

[Rhode Warrior]

I've never experienced any wobble but I have noticed from day one that my bike feels funny when I run in a groove or crack in the road or any surface irregularities for that matter. The bike seems to get stuck in the rut much, much more so than any of my other bikes and seems to follow the crack or rut, even though the tires on my Rocket are much wider than my other bikes. Have any of you guys noticed that?

I may try bumping up the air pressure too.

 

[barbagris]

The bike seems to get stuck in the rut much, much more so than any of my other bikes and seems to follow the crack or rut, even though the tires on my Rocket are much wider than my other bikes. Have any of you guys noticed that?.

Yup - and tyre width/pressure is why!

 

[barbagris]

However, you are sort of picking the fly $hit out of the pepper with minutia more practical for the race track rather than for a bloke just going for a ride on some public roadways, which are not "groomed" and provide a cornucopia of variable surfaces.

As long as you don't exceed the MAX pressure stamped on the tyre you're fine.

As for suspension. It's possibly MORE important on un-groomed roads. Track riders can get away with a lot more (drifting, lifting rear wheel even falling off) - and let's be honest here are probably more capable riders without a high risk of deer running out in front of them.

It's NOT a black art. When I still had the Buell - I spent time getting the suspension right for me - only 95bhp but in the twisties would leave much more powerful sports monsters way behind. I could see them buck and weave in the mirrors or closing on them. Simply because they'd not set their suspension up. When it opened up they'd whizz past and than I'd take them in the bends again. My top fun roads are ALL mountain roads. It's what happens when you learn road-craft in the Rural UK and spend your holidays in the Swiss and Austrian Alps.

To see where I learned - look up Zig Zag Hill Dorset.

 

[1olbull]

We were discussing tires and my assumption was that suspension preload and sag was properly set up.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

In order to test out the information offered in this thread, I put 38 PSI front and rear. Took her out for a 120 mile ride. Went by the track and did some graduated test runs. 130, 135, 140 and 145. No wobble at any speed. That problem solved. Now I have to overcome the lack of confidence in the corners. So then I took it through the twisties in the canyon. That went well too. I'll keep the 38 PSI up front and continue to test.

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[Claviger]

Good to hear Idaho. I found any instability I was getting from the front end was largely due to a loose head stock bearing. I tightened it to how it should be, and two days later it was loose again. Dropped it off for warranty repair this morning, hopefully they can set it properly in a manner that won't come loose again. Just hope the bearing isn't shot from being loose, really it worked itself loose so slowly there was no really easy to recognize indicator until it was pretty bad.

If it comes loose again I am going to replace the crap ball bearing with a annular bearing on the top so it can be tightened properly.