Valve Cover Gasket Repair? Any good pictures step by step?

I know it is a common problem. I'm still learning about my bike, and I'd like to repair it myself. I'm a little overwhelmed when I lifted the tank and bear claw off. Lots of stuff going in there. Could someone point me in the direction of a YouTube video or post where it shows pictures step by step? Coming up empty on my searches so far.

I am not aware of any videos that cover the gasket. It’s pretty straight forward. Make sure everything is clean and oil free, apply a small bit of sealant at the ends inline with the cams (the four round parts of the gasket) . Make sure it’s evenly seated around the head (where you can’t see, you can feel if it’s on right or not) and torque per the manual.

@sonny has written in detail, I believe, about his steps to ensure you don't get a leak. Search that post out. Gradual torquing of the bolts is important.

It's not difficult. While you're there check your valve clearances.

I highly recommend this video. It is a guy doing his Ramair install, but so many of the removal instructions follow the valve gasket process.
This might all be super simple to anyone that is mechanically inclined, but I'm not. It appears many opt to do the Ramair or K&N install after the pain it is to get the plenum out especially with large hands. His video highlights that well
Two tools I would add to aide the user is a much larger 3mm allen wrench which I happened to have for cycling. It will make your life much easier getting those interior clamps off. There is no way my fat fingers would have had room to get those off with regular size. I also recommend having one of these magnetic things next to your wrench to catch the screws before they fall.

The first thing you want to do is take the gasket out of the bag and lay it flat between a couple of pieces of cardboard and some weight on top of it for few days to take any kinks out of it.

bob

quadzilla200 said:

I highly recommend this video. It is a guy doing his Ramair install, but so many of the removal instructions follow the valve gasket process.
This might all be super simple to anyone that is mechanically inclined, but I'm not. It appears many opt to do the Ramair or K&N install after the pain it is to get the plenum out especially with large hands. His video highlights that well
Two tools I would add to aide the user is a much larger 3mm allen wrench which I happened to have for cycling. It will make your life much easier getting those interior clamps off. There is no way my fat fingers would have had room to get those off with regular size. I also recommend having one of these magnetic things next to your wrench to catch the screws before they fall.

Click to expand...

Makes a good point. If you still have stock intake many of us would advise changing to K&N or Ramair while you're getting at the gasket. Removing the stock breather is a bit of a hassle, but you're definnitely not going to like getting it back on. Getting rid of that will increase performance, especially with custom exhaust, but also make access to spark plugs and valve cover much, much, easier.

In the near future will be posting in detail with pics a good way to install gasket so you end up with no leaks at 20,000 miles. No need to replace valve cover with older model. The new cover with gasket and installed correctly works.

Quick question for you all. I've ordered the RamAir kit, so it will take awhile to get to the midwest.
I'd like to get the valve cover back on in the meantime and will leave towels in the throttle botties, but I was wondering should I replace spark plugs at 14k while everything is opened up. Also, I lost my rear brake when this happened to give you an idea of the oil that was coming out. I have only owned the bike for 1k miles and have no ideas what the oil was changed to when I bought it from the dealer. If I need to top it off, does it matter what I go with? or should I be safe (while expensive) and do a complete change and switch to the 7100. Is it is 10-40 for the 7100 or should it be 15-50?
Any advice on the brake would be greatly appreciated. It hasn't been driven since I was able to get it home that day.
Also, thinking of doing some slip-on exhausts while she is out of commission. The full systems are a little out of my price range and I honestly just want it to be louder for safety. What would you all go with in this case? and would it require anything that I'd have to change on the bike while she is opened up. Thanks for any advice. Sorry, my quick question expanded into multiple.
This forum is awesome.

i personally would change plugs at 20 bucks for 1 thing to inspect, make sure you check for 9mm gap setting on the stock oem plugs it calls for, I would change because you dont know whats in the bike, i use 15-50 lucas motorcycle racing synthetic for wet cluth application. i would buy new cam cover bolts as theyre are special and i think torque is very important on this job. This is what i would do because you asked not because its a got to thing at all. Good luck, advice above by others is spot on use it all and the job will be perfect my post wont add to there recommend steps for a successful job.

Kevin frazier said:

i personally would change plugs at 20 bucks for 1 thing to inspect, make sure you check for 9mm gap setting on the stock oem plugs it calls for, I would change because you dont know whats in the bike, i use 15-50 lucas motorcycle racing synthetic for wet cluth application. i would buy new cam cover bolts as theyre are special and i think torque is very important on this job. This is what i would do because you asked not because its a got to thing at all. Good luck, advice above by others is spot on use it all and the job will be perfect my post wont add to there recommend steps for a successful job.

Click to expand...

I'm Ok with the bolts, they don't get much torque (be sure to use a torque wrench!), but there are special gasket/washers for the bolts that you may want to replace. Probably no need at only 14K though.