transmission noise!!

That nut should spin freely if you have the castle/motor miunt nut loose as it is on the other end of the bolt.

I am talking about the nut on the bearclaw side ,rear upper mount , there is no castle motor mount nut on that attachment there . I cannot even take a picture it is so buried behind wire and stuff !!!! I will go back and take a fresh look ,I snoozed for a while today did not sleep too well.
 

There is only two castle nuts on the rear and the hex to both is on the left side of the motor as you sit on the bike. after them two its all down hill from there. As for naps well at my age I like them also as they refresh ones body. Just a thought . If you remove the gear sensor scrub it some with scotchbrite so you get a good contact but remember to watch for the pin on the spring so it does not fire the pin on the ground and you lose it. As I say tomorrow is another day
 

I am going to the dealer tomorrow because I do not know how to get a spanner on the nut holding the bolt on the upper left engine mount I have started to remove battery , battery box, in order to remove air box in order to reach that F+++cking nut on the upper left rear engine mount when I drop the engine I say this bike will look pretty skeletal! by the way on this following picture is the oil sending unit the 23mm bolted shinny thingy above the tab housed to hold the plastic cover that is not too difficult to reach compared to the nut of the rear left engine mount mount and talking about frustration to remove the battery box the rear fender MUST be also removed as the third bolt holding that framed box is between the fender and the battery box frame, with no room to get a tool any where near ing
 

As I recall that nut wasn't that hard to get at. On mine they had all the wires crammed into the area behind that nut. Once you coax them out of the way you should be able to go in from the top with a normally angled box end. I didn't have to take my battery box out. That looks a day long job in it's self ! If you can't get a wrench on it you could always slip a screwdriver in from the top and wedge it between one of the flats on the nut and the back of the engine. Once it comes loose you can hold it with your fingers.

P.S. You can't just remove the rear cover. The damper is an assembled unit and comes out as one piece.

 
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well fred I have pretty much everything out of the middle , battery , battery box one bolt to go the one requiring the rear fender to come off . , I disassembled all the electric screwed on the air box and I am pulling out tomorrow by the same token I am cutting open this plastic box to be used as drawer for stuff.
that big opening then will give the room to reach the nut I could not even see I 'd say your idea for a srewdriver wedge is a good idea but in my case the thing seems so torqued I 'd rather not chance a mistake
yeah I know what you say about the output shaft I just felt good getting all the bolts out except the one by the frame............ you confirm the brass looking nut on the rear of the head (see previous photo ) is the oil pressure sending unit?
 
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Yup, that's it. Mine had a bit of the disintegrated rubber cover left on it too.
 
Yup, that's it. Mine had a bit of the disintegrated rubber cover left on it too.
great , one more positive . I also lifted the gas tank and forgot it was full man !!!it is rather heavy I realize I am doing more work than needed but I have a month in front of me to complete the job and not being a pro i probably do work that might not be necessary but my only concern is to make sure I do not lose any bolts or screws as the table I use is getting filled with parts and stuff
 
Pat, I just went down stairs and stuck a 17 mm wrench on the left hand upper motor mount bolt on mine which is not even torn down. Of course the infill panel is off. 17 mm 12 point. feels a little loose like it might be 16 mm but I did not have one on hand. Most likely its in the garage and I am in my house coat. I will see if I can find one once I get my uniform on. This would be the only time I do not always use a 8 point wrench. Anyway it just has to hold it long enough to bust it loose. then you can hold it with you finger. Let me iron my uniform and I will see if I have time to round up a 16 mm wrench.
 
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