Timing Chain

Bike Bandit advised all timing chain items shipped. Ye-haw. It's hard to sit around on these 80 degree days.

Just checked mine 10k miles valve check and yep the cam chain adjuster is out at 26mm, so new chain and guides time! The manual states you have to remove the cylinder head to change the tensioning blades! is it possible to do this without removing the head???
Thought - only 3 shims to replace. then looked closer at the chain

Pete

pierre said:

Just checked mine 10k miles valve check and yep the cam chain adjuster is out at 26mm, so new chain and guides time! The manual states you have to remove the cylinder head to change the tensioning blades! is it possible to do this without removing the head???
Thought - only 3 shims to replace. then looked closer at the chain

Pete

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Pierre you can change the guides without pulling the head the hard one is the side opposite the tensioner. but as dwracer and lester will attest to if you hold your face straight you can fish both of them up from the bottom. In fact if you do not have any shims to add you can fish the chain on without lifting the cams. I cannot speak for the gears as I did not investigate that one. I think you can but from what I see in my mind you will first have to roll the crank so all cylinders are not up the you can roll each cam to get at the bolts. Like I said I have not tried it so I cannot confirm whether there is enough room in front of the cams to slip the gear off and a new one on. I won't know till later on this winter when I tear down Gracie. I will be checking her tensioner today when I pull her into the basement to start removing the corbin bags for painting.

Since I have a 05 tensioner laying around I can tell you full extension measured from the inside is 26.162 mm or 1.030 inches. one tooth left in adjustment is 25.146 mm or .990 inches. So you are at full extension of you tensioner.

Many thanks for the info, Cams have to come off anyway so will strip it tomorrow and get the bits on order.

Pierre

Pierre, I was able to change all three gears both blades and chain without removing the heads or cam. If you have to shim I would replace the chain then. With a cam tool it is easy get everything back in time without the spring pressure wanting to snap back all the time. Be sure to check the photos WARP posted on the timing marks. The manual does suck on their drawings.

pierre said:

Many thanks for the info, Cams have to come off anyway so will strip it tomorrow and get the bits on order.

Pierre

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Make sure you loosen the cam ladder as per the manual so you do not warp it. A warped cam ladder =new head. according to the manual.

I am not sure if they are right but I was sure I did not want to gamble that it did not matter.