Ok I am home now and after closer look and contemplation I bet 100 bucks your bike has the older black pastic.some typ of phenalic material guide which has some spring steel in it for what was thought to be rigidity. This means two things and do not hold me to it as I am just piecing things together from watching other engine getting torn down, and the three engines I have been into myself. My bet is your bike has not had the update kit parts in it as the guide supplied with them is made out of aluminum like below. So first some guide pictures below is a end shot od three guides two are the aluminum which are on the right the one on the left is th older style that gets replaced. Note the round indentation on the aluminum one the size of the tensioner plunger, and take note of the sliding action on the balck one which is from flexing while loading the engine. This is why I think you have a older guide as the depression is not round like on the aluminum one. This flexing changes the valve event a wee bit.


In the bottom is another view the older one I am speaking of.



At first I though the older one was better but learned quickly it flexes to much especially if you run stiffer springs. You can actually lay it on the ground arc up you can jump up and down on it and it will straighten out and flex back into the arc. This flexing in the motor IMO alows the tensioner to extend and adjust and then it returns back to its normal shape to some extent. This flexing can and probalbly in some cases can kick the ratchet adjusting pawl up and release the tensioner causing catostrohic event due to valve timing being lost. (valve collision withthe pistons) this will eigther bend the valves or break them.

I am not saying yours needs an update kit as my 05 does not have one and performs just fine. But when you order parts you want the newer guides I would order for a 09 model. As I stated your cam gears should be fine and most likely to crank gear also. When you take her apart to verify what you actually need we will find out if I am right about the guide. You will need the cam gear alighnment tool to set the timing as the normal gears are not slotted. When using the cam tool you should ensure the slack is out of the chain with on the non ajustable side of the engine. After setting it do yourself a favor and roll the engine over and double check with the alignment tool again. Not saying you cannot go the slotted gear route and degree whell but I have no knowledge of stting cams up with that I set mine during overlap with a dial indicator on the valve bucket.

In my opinion you should open her up and inspect before ordering parts unless you just want to get a jump start on it. You will need a clutch cover gasket also.
 
Great, I am sure you can get her solved. Personally I would run a modified auto tensioner to insure the bugger never fails and kicks back. If you could take soem pictures I am colecting data trying to figure out why and when Triumph made changes. By why I mean other then updating them. Also look on the frame pipe I am curious as to the build date on the left front frame tube. I suspect yours is a early 08 but not sure.
 
Contacted APE about their cam gears and tensioner. I was advised they no longer sell the aftermarket cam tensioner to the general public. They sell their tensioners to Carpenter Racing and he only sells to customers that he is installing. I'll find out Monday if I can purchase the chain from a dealer in Dallas. May go back in the machine shop and get on the CNC machine and make my own. :)
 
Contacted APE about their cam gears and tensioner. I was advised they no longer sell the aftermarket cam tensioner to the general public. They sell their tensioners to Carpenter Racing and he only sells to customers that he is installing. I'll find out Monday if I can purchase the chain from a dealer in Dallas. May go back in the machine shop and get on the CNC machine and make my own. :)


or you could just get one off the internetz!

Ape Manual Cam Chain Tensioner ST750 Suzuki GSX600F GSXR750 GSXR1100 Bandit 1200 | eBay
 
Contacted APE about their cam gears and tensioner. I was advised they no longer sell the aftermarket cam tensioner to the general public. They sell their tensioners to Carpenter Racing and he only sells to customers that he is installing. I'll find out Monday if I can purchase the chain from a dealer in Dallas. May go back in the machine shop and get on the CNC machine and make my own. :)

APE probably started doing this to save Captains from crashing their valves into the pistons.
Bob himself slotted my gears so all went well.
I also believe Neville Lush does his or has a contact to get them done.
I do not use the APE manual tensioner (because I do not trust myself in adjusting it right and at the right intervals) and suspect they are aware of the needed changes in the Triumph motor to even make their tensioner work without damaging the triumph parts. These changes are not needed in the Suzuki so if you are insisting on ordering a manual tensioner you can just order it for the Suzuki they will not know.
BUT YOU WILL HAVE CATASTROPHIC EVENT CAUSING FAILURE IN YOUR ENGINE, Without the needed modifications to the Triumph internal parts and the addition of a new designed and manufactured part by Warp Aerospace Division) The APE manual tensioner will look like it failed (but it will not be the cause) again crashing the valves into the pistons.
In a nutshell they are not wanting you to have problems and should be commended for watching out for you instead of taking your money.
Which is what I am doing also (except for the money stuff) even though I am sometimes known as a awnry feller from the way I sometimes react to post by certain individuals.
Sometimes I let my alligator mouth overloads my hummingbird arse if you know what I mean.
Seriously, though if you are not changing the springs, cams or any other items in the valve train (staying OEM), I still bet your gears are fine. If not you could order the full kit. I was just trying to save you some money buying new gears you most likely do not need until you open her up and inspect them. You can order the kit anyway; it is not that much more for it. Both cam gears and crank gear along with the timing chain can be ordered separately as well. In fact, I ordered mine separately because the blower drive is different and I did not know you could get everything as a kit. Mine were fine when I took them out at 50,000 miles, so I would just stay with stock OEM parts unless you are doing a special build.
There is a modification you can do to your OEM tensioner to make sure it does not fail and sense you are a machinist you can knock it out fast. The reason your tensioner is all the way in is twofold one major reason is the older style guide as I stated earlier. The other is I believe the earlier timing chain was longer and Triumph has sense changed it (this is what the Triumph parts guy in Indy told me). You do not have to believe me shoot Lester532 a message as he went thru this earlier this year and can verify along with giving you some advice. There is also a chance that with the stock valve springs and cams the manual tensioner will work you just have to figure out whether you want to play Russian Roulette or not.

This way I you have a problem you cannot blame anyone for not warning you. Valves, heads , cams, damged pistons along with the liners can get costly.

I hope this helps you in making your decision.
Warp!!!
 
Thanks Warp. I agree the gears are probably OK. The cost of replacing everything is no problem. When I rebuild an engine I replace the timing gears with a new chain. Don’t have too, just do. I dam sure don’t want to destroy a good running motor over a timing chain issue. I have seen many posting talking about the timing chain. I just want to put the best gears and chain on it and go ride and not have to worry about it coming apart on a long ride. I haven’t ridden it hard enough or fast enough to get any valve float so I’ll just leave the stock springs unless there are a bunch of postings I haven’t seen of valve springs breaking. I ride with a group of Harley and Victory riders don’t need a lot to stay up front. :D

A little off subject, I am building a new single seat Baja car for next year. I run in the class 3000 or class 10. They use the Chevy Echo-Tec 2.2 or 2.4. I thinking a Triumph-Carpenter Motor with all its torque would be a great motor for these classes
 
Seems awful early to be having these problems though? I'm going to check mine out soon, but I have 73K miles on the orginal timing chain and tensioner.. and right now, besides needed to replace clutch plates, she is running really good..
 
Seems awful early to be having these problems though? I'm going to check mine out soon, but I have 73K miles on the orginal timing chain and tensioner.. and right now, besides needed to replace clutch plates, she is running really good..

I believe the older 04/05 had a total different chain guide the the 06/07 models the more resemble the one in the update kit. I also have located another ealry model guide but have not been able to figure out what year it was introduced in. I am thinking pre 06 I wisee about posting a picture so you can let me know if it matches yours when you take it out.If so it would explain why yours had not flexed like DWracers.
 
Ok here is the two similar but yet different guide I was referring to. T one on the bottom I have not been able to figure out what year Rocket it went into I am suspecting the 04/05 but have not been able to confirm yet. it is surounded y steel on three side wher eis the 06-07 style that got replaced only has the one steel (spring steel) this one spring steel style flexes way to much and IMO pushes upwards on the tension releasign the pawl on the tensioner plunger which could cause failure. in fact you can lay the one piece steel one on the ground. stepp down on it and flatten it out. the Other is one rigid mo fo.
 
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